2 April, 2020|In News, Brandon's Corner

2020 Harvest Report: New Zealand

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4 June, 2019|In News, Brandon's Corner

The Ins and Outs of Burgundy Crus

This month we continue the endless journey that is Burgundy wine! The more one learns, the more one realises how much remains to be learned of this magical place in east-central France. As of 2015, Burgundy was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, spearheaded by one of its most famous sons and Domaines, Aubert de Villaine, of Domaine de La Romanee Conti.

Many vintage summaries and detailed commentaries begin in 1845 when discussing Burgundy wine. However, we know from archaeological research that viticulture was established in Burgundy as early as the second century AD; furthermore, evidence suggests that the Celts may have been working with vines in Burgundy earlier than the Roman conquest of Gaul in 51 BC. So we are looking at a history going back about 2,000 years!

Fast forward to the year 1935, this is when Burgundy’s classification system was developed into an AOC. This system is based on terroir so those sites with the best mix of soil, aspect, climate and quality over time, are deemed the highest classification.

The wines of Burgundy are classified as follows, starting at the highest order: Grand Cru, Premier Cru, Village and Regional.

Grand Cru

We begin at the top. Each Grand Cru has its own appellation. These wines are the pinnacle of grandeur – both white and red, they account for less than 1% of the region’s farming. They are the jewels of the Côte d’Or. All of the white Grand Crus are found in the Côte de Beaune. There is a red Grand Cru in Corton of the Côte de Beaune, other than that, all the Grand Cru reds can be found in the Côte de Nuits.

To be awarded a Grand Cru, the wine must be grown from grapes of the designated varietal, from a classified plot of land, from vines minimum 3 years of age and below a specific yield measured in hectolitre/hectare.

Then, the wine must be properly stored, aged, then available for sale. A Grand Cru wine should deliver an experience in the glass, showing intense aromatics, power and complexity of the highest order.

Premier Cru

The Premier Cru vineyards are measured by the same grape, yield and sourcing benchmarks as the Grand Crus. The Premier Crus also come from top sites and account for no more than 11% of the total Burgundian production. They are excellent wines, usually on average lesser so than the Grand Crus, however some Premier Cru sites can outperform the more average Grand Crus. These wines in particular, however, will usually command top dollar price tags.

Most Premier Crus are from named vineyards which appear on the wine label. For example, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Pucelles – this wine comes from the Pucelles vineyard in the village of Puligny-Montrachet.

Village

For many of us, Burgundy’s Villages level wines is where the ‘real’ Burgundy begins. This is where we associate certain characteristics and styles that we relate to the wines of specific village, such as meaty/red fruit in Savigny, elegant/floral Volnay, spicy/perfumed Vosne-Romanée, nutty/buttery Meursault, and rose petal/minerally Chambolle Musigny.

There are the same grape restrictions as seen in the first two classifications (including some Aligoté) although in Villages level wines there is a slightly higher yield hl/ha allowance. There is plenty of value to have in these Villages wines, and often these wines contain portions of declassified wine from top sites. For example, in Puligny-Montrachet, any vineyard (be it Grand Cru, Premier Cru or a Village site) can be bottled and labelled with the name Puligny-Montrachet.

Regional

Regional level wines can have bottles with various labels such as: Bourgogne Rouge, Bourgogne Blanc, Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Bourgogne Chardonnay or Bourgogne Aligoté. There are also hilly areas in the Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune that fall within this classification.

The allowed yields per hectare are higher here than for the other classifications within the Burgundy AOC. There is also a unique opportunity to use the grape of Beaujolais in a wine labelled as Bourgogne Passetoutgrains, which is mainly Gamay Noir blended with a smaller proportion of Pinot Noir. Often the best quality wines are found neighbouring famous appellations such as Meursault or Vosne Romanee.

Spotlight on Burgundy Premier Cru Wines

This month we aim to focus and celebrate the Premier Cru designation in particular. There are over 1,200 wine labels in Burgundy, many of these now well out of the reach of the average wine consumer based on rarity, price and availability. Burgundy price increases have centred on the 700 total wines from AOC designated Grand Cru and Villages wines, plus the Premier Cru climat-labeled wines. Where the most highly coveted and sought after Grand Cru wines are among the worlds most expensive, there is plenty of joy and discovery to be had at the Premier Cru level, which can certainly command a high price tag yet offer a wider range in value and deliver classic, Burgundy terroir.

At Dhall & Nash Fine Wines we have been developing relationships with growers in Burgundy over the last decade and over this period have spent considerable time and investment to build up a list of Burgundy wines we are proud to supply to the NZ marketplace.

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At Dhall & Nash, we have the following set of core values that we would like to share with you:

We respect those who create wonders, by patiently loving, toiling and knowing their small piece of earth through the generations. We passionately believe in building a bridge by education and experience – so that you may better appreciate and indulge in these wonders that you so well deserve.

Our current campaign, which includes plenty of tasting and eating, is all about celebrating these values by showcasing some of the wonderful growers and producers that we work with, and shining a spotlight on the vin nature side of things.

Les Merveilleux Producteurs!

So, let us start briefly with a little bit of history around wine culture. When considering the making of wine, one has to begin at the heart of it all, which is the grapes; it’s all about the fruit. Winegrowing is essentially a form of agriculture. In many parts of the world winegrowers would cultivate wheat, beans, chickpeas, even fruit trees and other vegetables between the rows of their vines in order to create biodiversity on their land and feed their families. In the 20^th century, modern agriculture changed everything and went through a process that mechanised and simplified farming in an attempt to increase yields and maximize short term profits. Grape-growing, like the rest of agriculture, is no exception and the wine industry followed in this industrialised pursuit. One of the biggest issues around this disconnection to the land is the development of synthetic chemical treatments, which we know has a detrimental effect on soil life and leads to degradation and soil erosion. Like so many other industries, wine moved from being handmade and artisanal to being large-scale and industrialised. Advances in technology and winemaking science have been enormously positive for the industry as a whole; however, a movement has risen that agrees we seem to have lost some perspective.

What is Natural Wine?

This is a commonly used term to describe wines made from vineyards that are farmed organically and/or biodynamically at the very least, and which are produced without adding or removing anything during vinification, apart from a dash of sulphites at most at bottling.

This is a simple, yet precise definition that considers both the growing and making decisions that goes into producing wine. The term natural in itself is a bit polarizing – live, pure, raw, real, true, low-intervention, authentic, farmhouse, are all alternatives and a little less contentious, however, as per Isabelle Legeron MW in her book ‘Natural Wine’, the word natural seems to be the broadly used term across the globe to describe healthily grown, nature friendly, low intervention wines that truly express their place of origin.

All in all, natural wine accounts for a very small proportion of the wine world, but over the last several years these wine styles are being rediscovered and celebrated worldwide by the wine industry and consumers alike.

For these growers, what they do goes well beyond the wine itself; it is also a philosophy, a way of life, which undoubtedly contributes to its profound appeal to people across the globe.

This philosophy was on show late last year, when Wellington hosted the 2nd Budburst Natural Wine Festival in New Zealand. As part of the organising committee, one of the main principles the event was based on was: wine starts in the vineyard. The festival members believe that natural wine cannot be made from conventionally farmed fruit – producers were asked to verify that they grow their grapes organically or biodynamically before submitting their wines for the event.

What is Organic and Biodynamic Farming?

Organic farming aims to avoid synthetic chemicals in the vineyard, including the use of pesticides, herbicides, fungicides and synthetic fertilizer. In place, plant and mineral based products are used to work against pests and diseases and to increase the health of soils and build up plant immunity and nutrient uptake.

Biodynamic farming is a form of organic cultivation developed by the Austrian anthroposophist Rudolf Steiner in the 1920’s. It is based on traditional practices; whereby polyculture and animal husbandry are at the heart of the farm. Unlike organics, the emphasis of biodynamics is on prevention rather than treatment, as well as encouraging the self-sufficiency of the farm unit. Natural preparations based on plants, minerals and manures are used in combination with astronomy to stimulate microbial life, boost the immune systems of plants and improve soil fertility.

To best illustrate these farming philosophies, we have put together a marvellous line-up of twelve wines from the Dhall & Nash portfolio including styles from the USA, France, New Zealand, Chile & Italy. Not all of these wines were chosen because they are made naturally in particular, in some cases they are not or not intended to be framed that way, but are farmed using all or some of these methods and exemplify their makers intentions and decisions for their land. This is a celebration and nod to the wonderful growers – Les Merveilleux Producteurs!

Expect a sensory experience of the highest order starting from fresh, saline and mineral, into an aromatic dual between two skin contact heavyweights. Then we taste spice, volume and history as we the hit the first set of red wines, moving into a marvellous combination of pioneering spirit and benchmark terroir, concluding with a love story, ancient soil and what does wine taste like living on the edge.

The Wines

Flight 1
2016 Causse Marines Les Grielles
2015 Folium Vineyard Reserve Sauvignon Blanc
2016 Domaine Vincent Careme Le Clos

Flight 2
2016 De Martino Viejas Tinajas Muscat
2015 Denavolo Dinavolo Vino da Tavola Orange Wine

Flight 3
2016 Aurum Madeleine Pinot Noir
2016 Easthope Family Winegrowers Gamay Noir
2016 Domaine des Pothiers La Chapelle

Flight 4
2015 Domaine de Noire Elegance
2015 Domaine Magdalena Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon

Flight 5
2015 La Stoppa Trebbiolo Rosso
2013 Ambyth Estate Grenache

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On Sunday 11th November Wellington will again be home to the country’s only natural wine festival. Housed across the Boatshed and Rowing Club on the Wellington waterfront, the Budburst teams will be welcoming natural wine producers from New Zealand and around the world for Budburst 2018.

The Budburst Natural Wine Festival is based on five main principles:

Wine starts in the vineyard. We believe that natural wine cannot be made from conventionally farmed fruit so we ask all our producers to verify that they grow their grapes organically or biodynamically.

Let the time & place shine through. In the winery we ask for minimal intervention. Let the quality of the fruit, site and season speak for themselves.

Naturally delicious. We love delicious, well-made wines. Weird for weird’s sake is not our bag, the wine also has to be good. Natural is the philosophy, quality is the aim.

Always learning, always curious. Education is at the heart of everything we do. The festival is designed to pique your curiosity and stir up debate, we’re not here to preach or convert.

It’s all for the love of wine. Budburst is a not-for-profit festival run by a passionate group of volunteers. The producers we pull together and the wines they show light us up and we want to share them with the world.

Dhall & Nash are excited for our suppliers who will be on show at the festival. The collection of wines one will find at this event is exceptional, rare and deliciously unique. We can’t wait to celebrate their success with you all here at the festival. Here is a little heads up on the wines to look out for and some details about these phenomenal wine growers from the Dhall & Nash portfolio:

Domaine Vincent Carême:

A young and dynamic Vouvray wine grower who set up his domaine in 1999. The estate makes the full range of Chenin Blanc styles; sparkling, sec, demi-sec and moelleux and he uses organic and biodynamic methods across his vines, with the 14 hectares estate being certified.

2016 Domaine Vincent Careme Sec

2016 Domaine Vincent Careme Le Clos

2015 Domaine Vincent Careme L’Ancestrale

Domaine Des Pothiers:

Romain Paire is a fantastic wine grower. He exalts the family estate, old of several centuries and spreading on 17.5 hectares of vines planted on beautiful slopes situated at 400 and 500 meters of altitude. The vineyard is entirely certified organic and biodynamic (label Biodyvin). The delicious red wines are made of Gamay Saint-Romain grown on complex granitic soils. It delivers perfectly balanced full-flavored wines.

2017 Domaine des Pothiers Eclipse Method

2017 Domaine des Pothiers Référence

2016 Domaine des Pothiers La Chapelle

De Martino:

The De Martino winery was founded in 1934 by Pietro De Martino, who arrived in Chile in search of a place to satisfy his passion for winemaking. Today, more than 80 years after it began, the fourth generation of De Martino still work the winery every day. Their Amphora wines from the Viejas Tinajas range are super rare and ultra-delicious and landed just in time.

2016 De Martino Viejas Tinajas Muscat

2016 De Martino Viejas Tinajas Cinsault

2011 De Martino Old Vines Limavida Malbec

Aurum Wines:

A family run estate based in the Lowburn sub region of Central Otago. The vineyard and winery are managed using certified organic practices and thrive to produce wines that speak truthfully of their origins. Organics is the defining philosophy of the vineyard management and part of an overall goal to achieve continuous improvements in vineyard sustainability and to make better wines. Keep an eye out for Aurum running their own stand at the Budburst festival.

2017 Aurum Amber Wine Pinot Gris

2017 Aurum Chardonnay

2017 Aurum Libera Pinot Noir

This is going to be a fantastic event. Can’t wait to see you there.
– Brandon

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Domaines Paul Jaboulet Aîné, Rhône, Tain-l’Hermitage with Jean-Luc Chapel

And so the final leg for Brandon and I as we head to the Rhône valley to visit Domaines Paul Jaboulet Aîné. Driving South we now feel the Mediterranean climate and the sun has a redder, more golden feel. We find the Rhône River as we pass the incredibly steep vineyards of Côte-Rôtie and Condrieu, and wind into the small village of Tain-l’Hermitage. Not only is the village home to great wines, but also home to Valrhona chocolate – how much goodness can a person handle! We visit the awesome Vineum of Paul Jaboulet on the central square. A cafe, bistro and show room – the perfect place.

Jean-Luc is full of energy – he knows everyone, was an ex Sommelier and knows the Paul Jaboulet wines inside out. The first thing we do is to head up the hill. When you have seen an iconic symbol so many times, in so many photos, such as the Chapel (La Chapelle) at Hermitage, you think it might be underwhelming. But not at all. It is incredible! Brandon and I take hundreds of photos at The Chapel with the sweeping Rhône River behind us. We see all of the vineyards of Tain-l’Hermitage and St. Joseph across the valley and Crozes Hermitage all around us. We head back to Vineum and have a beautiful three course lunch, ending of course with Valrhona.

Jean-Luc tells us that the winery was built new in 2006 – gravity fed. The La Chapelle itself dates back to 1134 and was built by a German Knight from the Crusades. Many of the wines are now fermented in concrete eggs. There are about 70-75 employees for the Domaine, and Estate bottlings are about 450,00 bottles. If you add the Vin De Pays and Côtes du Rhônes on top of this it comes to about 3 million bottles (compared to about 9 million for Guigal).

Wines and tasting notes:

2016 Crozes Hermitage Mule Blanche: Light, fragrant with a gentle texture. Beautiful length, very light ginger. Very nice. – Puneet
50% Marsanne and 50% Rousanne. 40-60 year old vines. 7ha vineyard on pebbly soils.

2015 Hermitage Chevalier de Sterimberg: Golden, white truffle, wax, honey, fatty, expressive, rounded. Excellent. – Puneet
The top white wine of the Estate. 70% Marsanne and 30% Rousanne.

2016 Condrieu les Grands Amandiers: Lemon meringue, tropical fruit, perfume, delicious, fatty, big mid palate, lemon zest. Made to pair with goats cheese, we are told. – Puneet
Lovely to have a Condrieu – Dry 100% Viognier. Very low yield.

2013 Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert: A deep colour, meaty, white pepper, purple fruit, dense. – Puneet
100% Syrah and the oldest vines of the Estate. Always good; incredible value.

2014 Saint Joseph Domaine de la Croix des Vignes: Flowers, violets, pepper, beautiful red ripe fruit, graphite PD
From the other side of the river.

2006 Cornas Domaine Saint Pierre: Brown red colour, gamey, ripe tannins, silky, chocolate, anise. – Puneet
A great vintage in the Rhône and Caroline Frey’s first vintage as winemaker.

2015 Hermitage la Maison Bleue (La Petite Chapelle): Graphite, slate, raspberry, blueberry. Big tannins. – Puneet
Produced on the most Eastern slopes on the Hermitage Hill. ‘La Maison Bleue refers to their charming stone house used as a shelter to wine growers on that part of the hill.

2006 Hermitage la Chapelle: Leather, tobacco, olive, anise, menthol. Awesome. – Puneet
From three areas on the Hermitage hill with light soils. The ‘Bessards’ with uneven granite soils, the ‘Meal’ with limestone and silica and the ‘Rocoules’ with limestone and clay. This wine really shows where great Syrah can go.

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Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, Burgundy, Nuits-Saint-Georges with Thibault Liger

Another beautiful morning and Brandon and I walk into another magnificent Domaine – a beautiful ivy clad house, just perfect for anything. We walk around the back to the cellar. Thibault is pouring samples from down below. He speaks perfect English and comes up to greet us. The Domaine houses some Grand Cru wines, but there is a new site where we will taste. We drive a few minutes to the most modern site we have seen in Burgundy. We then realise that Thibault is an incredible blend of the old and new and a fascinating character, respected by all. He shows us around the facility – proud and knowledgeable, he shows us solar panels, water reclamation and energy efficiency devices everywhere. The Domaine has been organic and biodynamic since 2001.

2017 Moulin à Vent Les Ruchots Beaujolais:  Lovely fruit and spice, rounded body, medium concentration, fleshy.
Sand and granite soil, 40% whole cluster. 2m of soil.

2017 Moulin à Vent Vieille Vignes Beaujolais: Slate, dusty, bright, energetic. Violets, vibrant, plush and soft with plenty of years more in this one. – Puneet

2017 Moulin à Vent la Roche Beaujolais: Dust and mineral, textural and sophisticated with superb length. – Puneet
No soil, just rock.

2017 Bourgogne Les Grands Chaillots: Spice, red fruits, fresh and strong. – Puneet
1ha Chambolle musigny 1er cru. 2ha Chambolle Musigny.

2017 Haute Côtes de Nuits Clos de Prix: More fruit and softer tannin, limestone, pebbles. – Puneet

2017 Chambolle Musigny Village: Red fruit, lighter spice, bright and fleshy. – Puneet
Blend of 5 Lieux Dits. 40% whole cluster.

2017 Nuits St Georges Les Charmots: Mushroom, fresh, energy, funky. – Puneet
Big clay with a mix of limestone soils.

2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Croix Deschamps: Toasty, grilled meat, blue fruit, earthy. – Puneet

2017 Vosne Romanee Aux Reales: Lots of limestone in this soil. Very aromatic, stony, mineral, lovely tannins.

2017 Chambolle Musigny Les Griotte: Spice, red fruit, lovely body and structure, more velvet. – Puneet
Just below Bonnes Mares.

2017 Charmes Chambertin Aux Charmes: An explosion of perfume and aroma, red and blue fruit, texture and body. – Puneet
Very high vineyards. 70% whole cluster (cut at the stem).

2017 Clos de Vougeot: More spice, earthy, more secondary characters. – Puneet

2017 Nuits St Georges, Les St Georges: Forest floor, truffle, calcite. – Puneet

2017 Richebourg Grand Cru: Very complex soil. Deeper, great complexity, incredible length. So so young. – Puneet

2017 Bourgogne Aligote Des Combes: Fruit driven, bitter aromatic, fleshy. Very nice and refreshrefreshing. – Puneet

Domaine Dujac, Burgundy, Chambolle Musigny with Alec Seysses

We walk down into the cellar to a group tasting with some Americans, Italians and Chinese. Alec has taken over the Domaine from his father. He is incredibly confident and respectful of his Domaine, and very knowledgeable of its history.

2017 Les Folatieres Blanc: Nutty aromas, beautiful integration of oak. Cream and stone fruit. – Puneet

2016 Morey Village: Cardamom, mineral and fruit. – Puneet
90% whole cluster.

2016 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Combottes: Toastier, earthier, open, red fruits towards blue, generous. – Puneet

2016 Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Malcansort: Aromatic, fragrant, powerful, gorgeous texture, spicy tannin, elegant, length. – Puneet

2016 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru: Bigger and spicier. Coffee, licorice, powerful, limestone, mineral, clean. – Puneet

1996 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru: Red/brown colour. Gentler spice, toffee notes. Blending of flavours, gentle spice, silky graininess – delicious.

Domaine Bertagna, Burgundy, Vougeot with Eva Reh Siddle

Eva Reh Siddle loves her Domaine. Nestled in the heart of Vougeot (next door to our wonderful hotel), her back gate looks at all of the greatest vineyards within touching distance. Amourouses to the right, Vougeot in front and Echezeaux to the left. Eva Reh is sophisticated and speaks her mind – maybe an element of her German heritage. It is clear that she loves the place, and that running the Domaine is a labour of love. There are 6 full time staff at the Domaine. She tells us the 2015’s are closed now and need another 5-7 years. The 14’s and 16’s can be drunk now.

2016 Bourgogne Hautes Cotes du Nuits: Versatile, medium body, light spice, gentle. Mineral and limestone. – Puneet
50% oak, 50% stainless, 20% whole bunch.

2016 Vougeot Clos de la Perrieres 1er Cru (Monoplole): Fragrant, brown earth, lots of spice, lovely texture. Accessible now. – Puneet

2016 Vosne Romanee Les Beaumonts: Fragrant, soft, black fruit, hint of licorice, stony, pebbly.
 45 yr old vines.

2016 Nuits St Georges Les Murgers 1er Cru: Forest-like, powerful, black fruit, spice, little closed, tannin, purple fruit. – Puneet

2016 Clos St Denis Grand Cru: Hints of coffee. Elegant and graceful. – Puneet

2016 Le Corton Grand Cru Ls Grand Loliers: Truffle, gravy, violets, purple fruit, length. – Puneet

2016 Vougeot le Cras (White): Yellow stone fruit, ripe, honey suckle, white chocolate. Stony and creamy. – Puneet
Used to be Pinot Noir until 1984. In the early days of the Monastry in Vougeot the land was equal and blanc and noir. First harvest was 1988.

Domaine Guffens-Heynen and Domain Verget, Burgundy, Maconnais

Brandon and I drive South from the Cote D’or. It is a fairly long distance to the Maconnais and in fact feels like a whole new region, even though it is still Burgundy. The hills are larger and more steep, the climate feels that touch warmer. Vineyard elevations are 200-400m. We visit two Domaines in the Macon, housed in the same winery. Guffens-Heynen is all their own vineyards and their own fruit. A total of 6ha: 1ha Pouily Fuisse, 1ha St Veran and 4ha Macon. All the fruit in Verget is bought in long term contracts with growers from the best sites. The Domaines are inspirational, technology is embraced, innovative wine methods are practiced – possibly the first in the world to use horizontal cylindrical stainless steel tanks for whites with a special lees stirring rod. The tanks increase the surface area of wine in contact with lees. There are many, many more innovations like this. We are shown around the facility by Julian who is intelligent, insightful and humble. All white wines.

2017 Verget Vins de Sud Macon: Fresh texture, zest, hint of bitterness. Nice. – Puneet

2016 Verget Vins de France: Prune juice, fresh, ripe. – Puneet
Only lees.

2017 Macon Village Grand Elevation: Ripe with huge body and lees. Nutty and creamy. – Puneet
A blend of different plots in the village.

2017 Bourgogne Grand Elevage: Ripe, large body, more length. – Puneet

2017 Macon Charnay Clos St Perriere: Good density and fruit, some spice. Lovely and integrated. – Puneet

2017 Macon Bussieres Vignes de Montbrisson: Subtle, mineral, lime, fresh. Very approachable and tasty. – Puneet
High elevation, full eastern exposure. Limestone. 70 year old vines. 20% new oak – free run juice, low yields.

2017 Vire Clesse: Pineapple, honeydew, melon. Very fruity. – Puneet

2017 St Veran Lieux Dit: Toasty, nutty, open and generous, creamy. Very good. – Puneet

2017 Pouilly Fuisse Terroirs de V: Intense, spicy nose, mineral. – Puneet

2017 Pouilly Fuisse Terroirs de F: Stony, pebbly, mineral, pleasant, open. – Puneet
From Vergison vineyards – high altitude.

2017 Pouilly Fuisse Les Combes Vieille Vignes: Mineral and toasted, generous. – Puneet
In a valley, North and South exposure.

2016 St Veran Terroirs de Davaye: Fruit driven. Less dense than the 2017 St Veran. – Puneet

2013 Guffens-Heynen Trie de Chavigne: Spicy, soft, concentrated. Very good. – Puneet
The Trie de Chavigne is the result of long harvests and the individual berries being picked at night over several weeks as each berry attains a specific ripeness.

2015 Guffens-Heynen Premier Jus de Chivigne: Beautiful palate, sweet fruit, dense, creamy, mineral. – Puneet

2013 Guffens-Heynen Pouilly Fuisse Trie des Hauts des Vignes: Big fruit, concentrated and fleshy. – Puneet

Domaine de Pothiers, Loire, Cote Roannaise, with Romain

Brandon and I go off piste slightly. A long and winding drive up the hills, passing pretty villages, into practically the centre of France. We drive over the Loire river and realise that this region is actually a very far eastern point of the Loire Valley. It is intensely beautiful in a lonely far away kind of way. We feel like we can see the whole of France – North, South, East and West. The Côte Roannaise has been for wines for over a thousand years. We find the Domaine de Pothiers and the house at the end of a long driveway. An elderly gentleman stares frustratingly into the abyss of a tractor engine. We say Bonjour but he does not even know that we are there. Only the tractor matters.

A few minutes later, the owner Romain drives up the lane with another tractor. He gets straight to business and shows us around his house which is at least one thousand years old and has housed his family for as far back as records go. We jump in the car and take a tour of his land. He takes us higher and higher to his Clos. An old monastery towers over this walled vineyard. We feel as far away from civilisation as is possible but the view is amazing – just beautiful.

We go and see the rest of Romain’s property where we meet his horse that he plows with – they are best friends. Romain is truly a man of the country, up at dawn working till dusk, doing more projects in a year than I will do in a lifetime. He is truly inspirational and as we taste his wines we realise that we have found an absolute gem. Over an incredible meal with his family of the best beef in the world (home killed and cooked) we find out that when Roamain makes a rare visit to a 3 star Michelin restaurant he is treated like royalty, such are the quality of his wines and the respect he earns. I ask Romain what we should remember about his vineyards. He tells me the Gamay St Romain (this is not the Gamay of Beaujolais – but a different variety altogether which is more pretty and feminine), freshness from altitude and cool climate characteristics. “Gamay forever” he says.

The post Puneet & Brandon in France: Day Five appeared first on Dhall & Nash Fine Wines.

Domaine Laurent Roumier, Burgundy, Chambolle Musigny with Laurent Roumier

In the morning Brandon and I travel back to the legendary village of Chambolle Musigny. We now understand why this is such an exceptional commune and are excited to visit. Laurent Roumier’s father, Jean Marie, is the brother of the legendary George Roumier. This is a small Domaine, completely cult and always sold out.

2015 Chambolle Musigny Haute Cotes de Nuits: Red fruits, mineral, spice, rocks. Drink 3-4 years after bottling. – Puneet

2015 Chambolle Musigny Village: More spice and red fruit, more length and fresher. – Puneet

2015 Clos de Vougeot: More colour, cloves and spice, a swirl of flavour and fruit. Very dense, dark bitter chocolate character. – Puneet

Domaine Berthaut Gerbet, Burgundy, Fixin with Madame Berthet

Fixin is one of the Northern communes of the Cotes de Nuits. It is small and sometimes forgotten, but not after this class. Emmanuelle explains how the mother’s side and father’s side of their family combined their assets across Cotes de Nuits to create Berthaut Gerbet. Like Alex Millot, she is young, intelligent, respectful and determined – in other words bound to succeed.

2016 Haute Cote de Nuits: Floral, light red, fresh, balanced. – Puneet
2ha. 1 year barrel, no new oak.

2016 Fixin Village: Spice, red fruit, fresh and good length. – Puneet
Blend of 3 vineyards, 1 year in barrel, no new oak.

2016 Fixin Les Crais: Stones/shingles, bright, fresh and round. Lovely body. – Puneet
Single vineyard – 1.3ha.

2016 Gevrey Chambertin: Violets, floral perfume, ripe tannin, fatty, good mouth feel. – Puneet
2ha. Cuvee blend.

2016 Vosne Romanee: Gentle spice, red fruit and blue fruit, good body. – Puneet
2 plots.

2016 Fixin 1er Cru Arvulet: Savoury, brooding, toasted, grilled meat, long length. – Puneet

2016 Vosne Romanee Petits Monts 1er Cru: Fragrant red fruit, plush, balanced, lovely. – Puneet
Just above Richebourg, very steep.

2016 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru: Clove, spice, mossy, linear, straight, hint of dark chocolate. – Puneet

Domaine Michel Magnien and Domaine Frédéric Magnien, Burgundy, Morey St Denis with Carole Nappy

Frédéric is the father and Michel is the son. Michel is running the Domaine now. Organic, bio-dynamic and innovative. We felt like we were visiting old friends as we have been working with these guys for a few years now – I love their Clos de Beze and Clos de la Roche. We walk through the cellar and are amazed to see 100’s of terracotta amphora jars about 100 litres each. As Michel moves further and further to trying to let the terroir speak out in their wines, he is moving away from oak influence and using the more inert jars to age his wines.

2014 Morey St Denis Tres Girard Michel Magnien: Spice, savoury, hint of mushroom. – Puneet
Bottom vineyard near the restaurant Tres Girard. Deeper soils.

2014 Morey St Denis Luisat Michel Magnien: More perfume, fresh, clean, mineral at back of palate. – Puneet

2015 Morey St Denis Tres Girard Michel Magnien: Aged in jars. Younger, but ripe tannin, mushroom and spice. – Puneet

2013 Chambolle Musigny Vieille Vignes Frédéric Magnien: Spice, red fruit, vibrant, energetic, lively. – Puneet

2015 Chambolle Musigny Vieille Vignes Frédéric Magnien: Nice perfume, fragrant, mineral, elegant, length, earthy. – Puneet

2013 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Charmes Vieilles Vignes Frédéric Magnien: Beautiful bouquet, rock, mineral, garam masala. – Puneet

2014 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers Michel Magnien: Much more sweet red fruit, spice, fresh and vibrant energy. – Puneet

2014 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Bourniques Michel Magnien: (Next to Musigny should be a grand gru) Perfume, spice and grilled meat, incredible integration of flavour and tannin. – Puneet

2014 Morey St Denis 1er Cru Millandes Michel Magnien: Truffle, rock, earth. Deeper and broody. – Puneet

2013 Charles Chambertin Grand Cru Aux Mazeyeres Frédéric Magnien: Red and black fruit, port-like nose, broody again. Black earth, still young. 2013’s are still difficult to assess. – Puneet

2016 Morey St Denis 1er Cru Les Ruchottes: 50% JAR. Pure, red fruit, amazing minerality. Ripe silky tannin. – Puneet

2016 Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru Aux Mazeyeres: 40% JAR. Fragrant, elegant, generous, powerful, silky. – Puneet

2016 Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru: Big, open ,juicy, fresh, fantastic. – Puneet

Domaine Sylvain Pataille, Burgundy, Marsanne with Sylvain Pataille

What an experience. Sylvain has an electrifying mob of blonde hair, horn rimmed spectacles and as much energy and vibrancy as his wines, He lives and breathes the village he was born in and lives in, Marsannay, and is seen by many as the outstanding viticulturist and vigneron of his generation in Burgundy. Amongst all this, such is his demand that he also consults for many top estates across the Cotes D’Or.

On his road is his father’s cellar and grandfather’s cellar, along with his own cellar. We walk down into a small, damp room filled with barrels and barely any room to move around. The front of the cellar is his office – one huge barrel length ways with a multitude of clean skin bottles. He closes the door. “No phones, no time – I love it here” Sylvain smiles. He begins with his love Aligote – “the forgotten grape of Burgundy”. Many years ago top sites across Burgundy were planted with Aligote. He notes tasting the 1964 Bonneau du Martray Aligote “exquisite” – this is no longer the case. He still has Premier Cru sites across Marsannay dating back 100 years. Over the early evening we taste 30 or 40 barrel samples. I remember every single one although I stopped taking notes as I was absorbed in the whole experience.

Aligote is a small berry – bitter and fresh. It needs oxygen and oak (not stainless). It offers an aromatic nose and a bitter sweet full and fresh palate.

We run through every Aligote sample, and then Chardonnay and then his magnificent and vibrant Pinot Noir. This is a man that everyone should know of and listen to. He is playful, happy, extremely intelligent and immersed in his passion.

The post Puneet & Brandon in France: Day Four appeared first on Dhall & Nash Fine Wines.

Domaine Fabien Coche, Burgundy, Meursault with Fabien Coche

A lovely summer’s morning and a drive to Meursault, a medium sized village, extremely lovely, a lot of yellow and cream buildings with the multi coloured thatched roofs. Fabien Coche is son of Alain Coche who is the cousin of the famed Jean-Francois Coche-Drury. It seems that when it comes to the new generation, Fabien is the one making waves in the Coche family. The side of the Coche family were barrel makers in the 1930’s and moved into selling bottles in the 1940’s, at which point Fabien’s Grandfather got into the game.

We tried:

2015 Cotes de Bourginon: Gentle, lovely fruit expression, balanced and fresh. – Puneet
100% Chardonnay from Auxey Duresses.

2015 Bourgogne Blanc: Finesse, gentle and powerful, washes over with lovely freshness and balance. Textures woven into one. – Puneet
A blend of 3 parcels from Meursault. 20% new oak.

2015 St Romain Sous la Veille (Liex Dit): More aromatic, more toast, delicious, fruit mixed with cream and again woven so seamlessly as if one flavour all the way. – Puneet
18 Months oak barrel.

2015 Meursault Goute D’or 1er Cru: Amazing, nutty, toasty, but so elegant. Viscosity, cream, length that goes on. – Puneet

2015 Auxey Duresses Rouge: Open, red, mineral, stony, red fruit, big mid palate, happy wine, light toast, some moss. – Puneet

2015 Meursault Rouge: Mossy, earthy, full body, some evident tannins, raspberry, ripe.

2016 Bourgogne Blanc: Just bottled – good aroma, sweet fruit and gentle toast. Good mineral, fresh, not bold, elegant, good acid. – Puneet

2016 Auxey Duresses: Linear, mineral, hint of spice, less toast. – Puneet

2016 Meursault le Chevaliers: Lovely nose, damp oak, white chocolate, fresh, pure, elegant, so integrated, finesse. Very good. – Puneet

2016 Meursault Villages: Toasted, more obvious and nutty, fruity body, generous open and fresh.

Domaine Jean Marc Millot, Burgundy, Nuits St Georges with Alex Millot

We walk down a long alley in a back road of Nuits St George to a newer wooden building. We meet the rotund and happy father Jean Marc Millot, and his daughter, Alex, who is now in charge of the Domaine. Brandon spends a while telling everyone how Alex looks like his sister in law and a bunch of pictures are taken. As usual we descend to the cellar, Alex armed with wine knife, portable spitoon and local regional map.

2017 Bourgogne Rouge: Gravely, dusty, earthy, vibrant, good energy. – Puneet
From Comblachiets.

2017 Savigny Les Beaune: Aromatic, open, lots of red fruit, smooth and pleasant tannin. – Puneet
3 plots 0.88ha, 12 barrels.

2017 Cotes de Nuits: Mushroom, moss, red fruit, wide open palate leading to savoury and herbal finish. – Puneet
4 plots old vines.

2017 Cotes de Nuits Aux Faugeres: Truffle, meat, elegant, bright, rounded, fresh. – Puneet
1.8ha.

2017 Vosne Romanee Villages: Stone, slate, mineral, fresh, moreish. – Puneet
2 plots 5 barrels.

2017 Vosne Romanee Les Suchots 1er Cru: Young, slate, toast, layered. – Puneet

2017 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru: Roasted, light grill to charcoal, rosemary, lovely palate. – Puneet

2017 Echezeaux Grand Cru: Rocky, integrated red and black fruit, textured and tannins. – Puneet
3 parcels.

2017 Grands Echezeaux Grand Cru: Large nose of red and black fruits, toasted, very balanced. – Puneet

Domaine JJ Confuron, Burgundy, Nuits St Georges with Laurie Confuron

Another changing of the guard as we meet Laurie who has taken on the honour of running the Domaine from his mother and father. With the younger guys, we find that most of them have visited New Zealand, and we often have friends in common. I also notice how they take the responsibility of running the Domaine with seriousness, intellect and with a youthful touch. We listen to Laurie as intently as anyone – after all these guys have been running around these barrel halls and vineyards since the day they found their feet. It is without a doubt in their blood.

Domaine Georges Comte de Vogue, Burgundy, Chambolle Musigny with Francois Millet

We drive to Chambolle Musigny. Several times over the past few days we have had to pinch ourselves that we have actually arranged this appointment. New Zealand legend Alan Brady (founder of Gibbston Valley, Felton Road) was so kind to arrange an introduction with winemaker and legend Francois Millet of Domaine Georges Comte de Vogue (one of the greatest ever Burgundy Domaines). We park on the narrow lane towards the top of the village with the hills above us. The sun is shining. We walk through the arch into the courtyard. We feel the silence – not deathly, but hallowed – monastic. Birds still flutter through the courtyard, but in silence. A girl walks silently through the courtyard. Life definitely abounds, the air smells super fresh. Brandon and I make our way to a glass door behind which is the office of Francois Millet. We knock and enter.

“Je m’appelle Brandon et Je m’appelle Puneet et Nous travaillons pour Dhall and Nash en Nouvelle Zealand… We would like to deepen our understanding of Burgundy and go to the next level.”

After a moment of silence, Francois draws a measured breath and replies,

“…Well you have come to the right place.”

Francois gathers a small wicker basket, just large enough for four wine glasses and his wine thief. We walk through the courtyard, into the Cellar. Not many barrels, but Brandon and I know we are standing by some of the most rare and sought after wine on the planet. Tastings like this are extremely rare, and you have to earn it. We taste 5 of the best red wines on Earth in a row from barrel. Francois talks and we listen. This is not a masterclass, it is something else. It is a Guru with his disciples. Francois with his decades of experience, built on centuries of experience of previous cellar masters, does not communicate in a way we are used to. He moves beyond technical into the metaphysical. The few hectares of hills upon which his Grand cru vineyards sit are more than land and sun and vines, they are spiritual embodiments, and he has the ability to listen and bond with his terroir. It is all alive and the wines themselves are alive, and he is together with them. We finish the tasting and walk out of the Cellar into the bright warm sunlight, as if we have just stepped off of Venus back onto Earth. Brandon and I shared an experience with Francois that we will never forget, and we will be forever grateful. That day we moved up onto a higher plane of wine appreciation and general intellect – our souls were moved by the simplicity and the greatness. We did not talk for quite some time.

2017 Chambolle Musigny Village: Incredible, bright, some coffee, plenty of red fruits. – Puneet
Francois explains that the Cote de Nuits follow a geographically linear line from North to South. Sites further up the hill show more ethereal qualities and less depth. At the bottom of the hill soils are deep and the limestone is further down. The Grand Cru and Permier Cru are all mid slope.

2017 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru: Deep, savoury, brooding, sensational, balanced, long length. – Puneet
Age for 10-25 years.

2017 Chambolle Musigny les Amourouses 1er Cru: Bursting with violets, deep plum and fruit, mineral with incredible length, finesse and elegance. Remarkable. – Puneet
0.5ha at the top of the site (Grand Cru in everything by name).

2017 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru: We are deep in the forest, big volume and density, blueberries and fresh moss, brightness. Sensational.

2017 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru: A blast of aroma and minerality, spice, red fruits. Still so much more to give over decades. – Puneet

Domaine Chevillon-Chezeaux, Burgundy, Nuits St George with Phillipe Chevilllon

After Comte de Vogue in the late afternoon sun, we are greeted by Phillipe Chevillon at his cellar in Nuits St George. We like him instantly – a large, strong chap with a hearty smile and virtually no English. He proceeds to talk to us in rapid french. By the time we leave we know everything about Nuits St George. The vineyards to the South being more spicy and earthy and the vineyards to the North picking up the more elegant bright, red fruit characters of Vosne Romanee. We all also agree the Nuits St George Les St George is definitely another 1er Cru that should/could be a Grand Cru.

Dinner Castel de Tres Girard, Morey St Denis

We sit down in the evening sun on the patio of Morey St Denis in Morey St Denis. In hommage to the village and our first memorable visit, we buy a 2008 Hubert Lignier Morey St Denis 1er Cru (I forget which one now!) We decanted, the first glass was closed and then after half an hour or so, the wine started opening up to its florals and spice and red fruit that we know so well – still young.

We have an exceptional meal and soak in village life in France – although as far as villages go, this is more on the sophisticated end of the spectrum.

The post Puneet & Brandon in France: Day Three appeared first on Dhall & Nash Fine Wines.

Domaine Testut, Chablis with Cyril Testut

Brandon and I drive into Chablis on Monday morning. All of the houses are literally situated on two or three streets in a remarkably small village given its international acclaim.
Domaine Testut is at the end of the street in the corner. We walk through the small stone gate entrance into a small magic garden. We are greeted by Marie Testut and taken upstairs in this beautiful house to the small tasting room, where we are greeted by Cyril Testut. As Cyril takes us for a tour he tells us that his father started the Domaine in 1967. However, the family made a decision to move to Lirac in the Rhone Valley not long after that. Cyril returned in 1998 to Chablis to make his first label under the name Cyril Testut. 

Cyril provides us with a master class on Chablis – Brandon and I taste and listen and feel the magic laying upon us. After the tasting Cyril takes us to the look out at the top of the hills where we can see the whole of Chablis laid out for us like a map from the most beautiful spot. It is the prettiest region and one can take in the whole region from one view point.

The region, like most of France, has suffered from 3 tough vintages in a row – 2015 hail, 2016 hail and frost, 2017 frost and dry soil.

We try:

2017 Rive Droite (also known as Chablis Vielle Vignes): Fresh beautiful texture, so drinkable, sea shells – good balance between soil and maturity. – Puneet
Old vines 50-55 years – 7ha. Facing West between Monte Tonee and Blachort. It is the most mineral part of Chablis.

2017 Vaillons 1er Cru (left bank):  Hints of sweet fruit/toastier, sublime, soft and silky, fresh. – Puneet
70 year vines.

2015 Vaillons 1er Cru: White toffee, beautiful honey notes and stone fruit with a gentle texture. This is a remarkable example of how Chablis sings as it ages. – Puneet

2016 Vaillons: A ‘Classic’ vintage of Chablis. Concentrated elegant, powerful, graceful. Sweet fruit and green apple, hints of marmalade. – Puneet

2016 Montee de Tonerre 1er Cru: Bigger, bolder, toastier. Still slightly closed, needs 2-3 more years. Can see this developing into beautiful body feel and limestone characters. – Puneet

2015 Forets 1er Cru: Beautiful texture and weight, silky, chalky, vinified in big varrels. Beautiful taste and structure. – Puneet
Southwest slope – 1,000 bottles. Very small 80 yr vines. In between Montee de Tonerre and Vaillons. Must wait at least 2 years after bottling before approaching this wine.

2012 Grenouille Grand Cru: Aromatic, fresh, mineral, silky, texture, strength, hint of menthol, wonderful. – Puneet
Cyril owns the Genouille at the top of the hill. The co-ops own the vines further down the hill.

2013 Grenouille Grand Cru: A botrytis year of rain, sun, rain, sun. Not a classic year but very rich, large, sweet and decadent. Spice – Puneet

2014 Grenouille Grand Cru: Classic, mineral, fresh, grassy. – Puneet

2015 Grenouille Grand Cru: White flowers, sweet fruit – wow. Still needs at least another year. – Puneet

2010 Rive Droite: Concentrated, honey, fresh, beautiful, simple, exceptional – age only makes these wines sing more. – Puneet

Lunch Au Fil du Zinc, Chablis

We walk down the street to Au Fil du Zinc. A small river runs right through and under the restaurant – only in France! It is white asparagus season, and we take to a 5 course gastronomique – switching between a Chablis Sechet 1er Cru Lieux dit from Jean Collet (a magnificent parcel within Vaillons) and an incredible red Burgundy village from Sylvain Pataille. Incredible energy and vibrancy. We visit him later on in the trip and meet one of the hot stars of Burgundy today.

Domaine Jean Collet et Fils, Chablis with Romain Collet

Puneet visited Jean Collet whilst Brandon headed over to Christian Moreau. The son Romain has taken over the family Domaine. The production and number of vineyards is quite a bit larger than that of Domaine Testut. Romain is still youthful and using his family knowledge combined with modern winemaking techniques to produce the best possible wines that he can – all natural yeast. You begin to see how the generations pass over the mantle from one to the next. It is never easy in the first few years of coming into the charge of the Domaine – it is very much a transition. Romain’s first vintage was 2008 – a very classical vintage. In the case of Collet, the Domaine dates back to 1792.

The wines Puneet tried:

2016 Chablis: (20ha) Fresh, not classic style, slightly toasty nose.

2016 Les Truffieres (North West): (2ha) Fresh, textural, sweet fruit.

2017 Montmains 1er Cru: Large fruit expression, a little tart, again good texture.
100% stainless steel on a South west slope.

2016 Vaillons 1er Cru: Concentrated, charred aubergine, balanced, textured.

2016 Les Forets 1er Cru: Organic, concrete egg and cigar barrel. Classic style, mineral, fatty, good palate.

2016 Sechets (inside Vaillons): Good minerality, spice, complex, fatty, concentrated, large.
Organic 30% New oak, 70% stainless.

2016 Montee de Tonnerre: Powerful, oak driven, fresh, mineral.
3ha. 100% barrel (5% new oak).

2016 Valmur Grand Cru: More subtle, silky, more savoury.

2016 Les Clos Grand Cru: (0.16ha) Very good, sublime, full of flowers and perfume, balanced, mineral, silky, rocky, strong.

Domaine Hubert Lignier, Burgundy, Morey St Denis with Laurent Lignier

Brandon and I depart Chablis and one and a half hours later enter Burgundy into the Cotes de Nuits. Our first stop is legend Hubert Lignier based in Morey St Denis. The house is on the main road at the bottom of the village slopes. A narrow gate into a graveled yard with 6 or 7 adults intent on a game of boules in the late afternoon sunshine. The game was in the carpark – we had to wait a few minutes for the round to end. Nothing interrupts a serious game of boules in the french countryside.

The current custodian Laurent Lignier meets us with his barrel knife to hand. He is wiry and has a gentle soul. We descend into the Cellar and another master class ensues. When you taste with these Masters you feel the immense connection between them and the land that they speak of. The wines are not fined or filtered and all transferred by gravity. Minimal intervention is the key. Even though the 2016’s are exceptional low volume, Laurent shows us samples from barrel of the 2016’s which are practically ready for bottling:

2016 Chambolle Musigny Vielle Vignes: Bright red fruit, beautiful. – Puneet
21 months in oak.

2016 Gevrey Chambertin Seuvrees: Fruity, spicy, cloves, bright red fruit. – Puneet
Whole bunch press, 4 year old barrel.

2016 Morey St Denis 1er Cru la Girotte: Finesse and length, open on the nose, elegant tannins structure, beautiful. – Puneet

2016 Morey 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes: Incredibly silky tannins, chocolate notes. – Puneet
Planted by his grandfather, only 25hl/ha.

2016 Chambolle Musigny Les Baudes 1er Cru: (Next to Bonnes Mares) Fragrant, open, truffle, leather. Excellent. – Puneet

2016 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru: (1ha) Mossy, fragrant, beautiful, years and years for this. – Puneet

2012 Morey St Denis la Girotte 1er Cru: Reddy brown translucent colour, floral, more complex wine, schist and stone, savoury, an amazing swirl of flavour. – Puneet

The post Puneet & Brandon in France: Day Two appeared first on Dhall & Nash Fine Wines.

Domaine Egly-Ouriet, Champagne with Annick Egly

Brandon and I drive to Ambonnay – one of the greatest vineyard sites for Pinot Noir in the world. We drive into the small village of Ambonnay to the Maison of Egly-Ouriet. We are greeted by Annick Egly. Her husband Francis works extremely hard and is always in the vineyard – he is rarely home before dark. We are shown around the facility – a few metres down the road from their home, and just in front of the famed vineyards. The family has been extending their cellars below ground to accommodate more barrels.

We try two wines:

NV Brut Tradition: Rich red fruit and stonefruit also. Beautiful length and intensity. Lovely – Puneet
60% Pinot Noir / 40% Chardonnay : 40,000 Bottles. 50% 2012, 50% a combination of the 2009/10/11. No dosage –  all natural sugars. 

NV Blanc de Noirs: Big, red and golden fruit driven. Plush and beautiful – Puneet
100% Pinot Noir, a combination of 2010 and 2011 : 10,000 bottles.

Maison Billecart-Salmon, Champagne

We walk down the lane of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ through the old stone entrance into a large courtyard filled with sunshine. The Chateau in the background a majestic site, and to the East of the courtyard is a beautiful cylindrical stone building facing into the square. Brandon and I mix and mingle and meet people from around the world. Only Magnums are served with a crescendoing effect throughout the evening, starting with the Brut, to Rose. to 2007’s and then the magnificent Billecart Cuvee 200. We party well into the night…

The beautiful garden is opened up at the back of the Chateau for the next morning. The sun is energising. One of the highlight is the Tuk Tuk ride we take from the Chateau up to the highest point of the vineyard where an exclusive bar is set up. We drink cuvee 200 as the sun sets from the all blue sky over the vines of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. Are we still on Earth?

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