We kiwis are certainly no stranger to Sauvignon Blanc (or ‘Savvy B’’ as you may call it on a summer avo on the deck,) but as familiar as we are with this crisp white variety, it has a number of sister-regions across the globe who hold it equally close to their hearts.

While New Zealand may be a bit of a spiritual home to the grape, France is where its roots lay. This month, a new wine is hitting our portfolio – Domaine du Bouchot from the Loire Valley, producing Pouilly-Fumé. 

In celebration of this hitting our shores, we wanted to take a look not just at this exciting, new parcel-driven artisan but at the beloved variety that defines so many regions. 

Marlborough is New Zealand’s largest wine region, churning out a staggering 75% of the country’s overall wine production in 2020, 70% of NZ’s vineyard area and 85% of its wine exports. 

Despite this powerhouse profile though, it’s just a baby. While records technically date viticulture in the region to 1873, the vines were ripped out in the 30’s and nothing more was really heard until the 70’s when – ironically – Marlborough County Council Livestock Instructor, S.G.C. Newdick wrote “… there does not appear to be any likelihood of vineyards starting up in Marlborough in the foreseeable future,” (lol). 

A year later, Frank Yukich of Montana Wines purchased land, planted grapes and proclaimed “Wines from here will become world famous,” – a statement which has stood up to the test of time much more accurately.

In 1985, just 12 years after the first plantings were made, Marlborough was launched onto the world stage. A Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc made by David Hohnen & Kevin Judd was – to everyone’s shock – voted the best Sauvignon Blanc in the world by Wine magazine. 

In his 2018 book Red & White, Oz Clarke credits this first vintage with nothing less than a varietal revolution:

Plantings have increased exponentially since this turning point, and now Sauvignon Blanc is our pin in the world wine map. Jamie Goode explains in Meninger’s International that “The success of Sauvignon is due to its unique flavour profile. The typical Marlborough character is one of green notes well integrated with citrus brightness and exotic tropical high notes, all kept laser sharp by high acidity. 

New Zealand wine scientists have discovered that the region makes wines with very high levels of two groups of impact compounds, methoxypyrazines and thiols. Methoxypyrazines are responsible for green flavours: green pepper, tomato leaf, grassiness while thiols are responsible for passionfruit, grapefruit and tropical fruit aromatics. So good Marlborough Sauvignon is about greenness allied to thiol aromatic interest. This is what sets it apart.”

(Our Marlborough Sauvignon Producers: Whyte Estate, Folium, Zephyr)

The Loire Valley in France is where Sauvignon Blanc originates from, and there are two significant Sauvignon expressions hailing from here that we’ll focus on – Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé – both appellations in the northern Loire on opposite banks of the Loire River.

We’ve done a deep dive on the Loire Valley before, which you can read here.

Loire Sauvignon Blanc is a far cry from the bright green New Zealand Sauvignon flavours. Sauvignon Blanc performs very differently here – due largely to the unique silex (flinty) and limestone terroirs and the cautious cultivation of the winemakers producing some of the purest, most refreshingly mineral wines in the world. 

Like so many old world regions, it’s impossible to pinpoint exactly when cultivation started in Sancerre, but it’s thought it was the Romans around 1AD. Romans were responsible for much of the early viticulture around Europe, as they had a great taste for wine and were a keen trade culture that travelled frequently. 

In the Loire village of St-Satur (the port for Sancerre), there’s evidence of two Roman bridges, suggesting it was a major route in ancient times. This makes sense, seeing as the chalky hills around the town tick all the boxes for what they looked for when seeking good land for vineyards – close to town, good soil and a close water source. 

The Sancerre appellation was officially named in 1936 as one of the original AOCs in the classification, specifically for its white wine. To qualify, white wines must be 100% Sauvignon Blanc from this area (totalling around 2,600 to 3,000 hectares,) and yields are restricted to ensure quality, typically around 60 hectoliters per hectare. (Red & rosé Sancerre is less at apx. 55 hectoliters per hectare.)

“The key to the distinctive character of any Sancerre emerges from its soils. There are three most common in the area: Caillotes (stony limestone), Terres Blanches (aka Kimmeridgian – white clay, limestone) and Silex (flint and clay). While most examples of Sancerre are a blend of two or all three of these soils, many top producers bottle these wines separately, and identify the soils on the label,” explains Tom Hyland for Forbes.

The belle of the ball for this blog and the home of our new producer, the Pouilly-Fumé AOC sits opposite Sancerre on the other side of the Loire River. While the regions are close in proximity and do share some similarities in their typicity and environment, the resulting renditions are a bit different. 

The Pouilly-Fumé appellation centres around the town of Pouilly, but the ‘Fumé’ – meaning smoke – refers to the deeper, almost smoky gun-flint note that wines from this side of the river can embody in their aroma and also the greyish hue the Sauvignon Blanc grapes get when they’re at maturity. So the appellation name is a combination of place + characteristic. 

“Because of the soil and the climate of that area, the wines would take on a sort of, well, they would have an aroma of gunflint or sometimes smoky aroma. It’s a compound called benzyl mercaptan,” Keith Beavers for VinePair’s ‘Wine 101’ Podcast explains, “But of course, they didn’t know that back in the day.”

It was granted its AOC classification in 1937 (a year after Sancerre), and its soils are largely Kimmeridgian marl, hard limestone and flint clay. It’s approx. 1,400 hectares and its harvest restrictions mean that it’s capped at 65 hL/ha (75 hL/ha in exceptional harvests) with a maximum residual sugar of 4 g/L.

A commonly confused AOC is Pouilly-sur-Loire. While Pouilly-Fumé is in the same geographic area, Pouilly-sur-Loire covers 30 – 40 hectares and permits only Chasselas grapes.

We’ve put together a handy, basic infographic below, but for those that want the more nerdy goss’ on these legendary cross-continental expressions, we got you. 

A combined study from researchers at Lincoln University, Université de Bourgogne and University of Otago published an analysis in 2009. They gathered notes from a number of wine professionals who were more familiar with French wines and had little experience with the New Zealand renditions. They blind tasted a number of wines from across the regions. In their abstract, they proclaim “The data were subjected to multivariate analyses. Principal components analysis of descriptive data showed that wines were separable by country of origin (NZ or France), and clear sub-regional differences in perceived odour profile were reported for French wines, and to a lesser degree for New Zealand wines. Overall, New Zealand wines were evaluated as showing higher levels of both fruity (e.g., passionfruit) and fresh green notes (e.g., green capsicum), while French wines were judged higher on dried herbaceous characters and mineral/flinty notes.” 

The taste differences do go beyond just wine nerds like us and the universities, sipping and swirling and swearing up and down that these wines are “soooo different, honestly!” So let’s don our lab coats and look at the science.

It’s been touched on individually as to what compounds are in the wines from each individual region but let’s take a closer look at Sauvignon Blanc – literally. We’re getting deep down into the molecular and chemical makeup of this beloved grape. 

The compounds are the naturally occurring chemicals that exist within the grapes. The way they form and present is affected by the climate and the soils the vines are in. It’s nurture and nature for these babies. The romantic word ‘terroir’ which we tout so often is a more poetic way of describing this phenomenon – how the soils and place uniquely impact the wine and how it is perceived. 

Each descriptor in a tasting note stems from a corresponding compound, and certain varieties contain higher levels of these which make up the wines signature styles. Case in point, Sauvignon Blanc!

For our beloved Savvy, there are two main compounds that give it its profile: methoxypyrazines and thiols. Each of these have subtypes within them, but ultimately different levels of these compounds dictate how the wine will present.

Methoxypyrazines “are responsible for the green, vegetative, and grassy aromas that are characteristic of the variety. Solar luminance, and not temperature, is responsible for removing these molecules during ripening. Therefore, the concentration of methoxypyrazines can be affected to some extent in the vineyard by careful canopy management.”

We’ve been focussing our attention recently on really leaning into our ethos of working with producers that reflect our core values, loving and toiling on their piece of earth through the generations to create wonders. This means a lot of our more recent portfolio additions are really parcel-driven and we’re often in direct contact with the winemakers. Domaine du Bouchot fits this bill to a tee.

If you visit the Domaine du Bouchot website, it basically lists their contact information and a note that tastings are by appointment only. Marketing is not on this producer’s priority list, it’s all about the wine so let us sing their praises appropriately. 

Miniscule by some standards but enormous when you consider it’s a modest operation, Domaine du Bouchot cultivates 10 hectares in the Saint-Andelain part of the Pouilly-Fumé AOC. It’s been a family run operation since 1966, by the Kerbiquets but after decades in their hands, in 2018, Bouchot saw the beginning of a new chapter when Antoine Gouffier purchased the estate. 

Antoine Gouffier was bitten by the travel bug. A French native, he opted to grab a backpack at 21 years old and see the world before he settled in and put roots down, both literally and figuratively. And he’s all the better for it.

On his 12-year whirlwind journey, he explored America, Argentina, Africa, and the Middle East and a lot of this was done through the lens of viticulture, “In America he began with learning all about the three-tier system from various wine importers, then his time in Argentina was spent with Michel Rolland and his right-hand-man Thierry Haberer of Clos de los Siete wine estate. Once arriving in South Africa Antoine worked and learned from Duncan Savage, and as a sweet surprise it was where he met Ilse Nel, his now wife,” explains Clos Cachet.

Antoine Gouffier at Domaine du Bouchot is the only producer in the appellation to make macerations, in particular with full vinification in barrels for some of his cuvées.

When Antoine came aboard in 2018, the estate had already been certified organic for nearly a decade. Its certification was awarded in 2009, and it was the first domain in the appellation to convert. 

Antoine opted to take this to the next level, and just two years after he purchased the estate it was officially certified biodynamic (Demeter) in 2020.

Interested in organics and biodynamics? We’ve got some great tell-all reads:

• Organics
• Biodynamics 

Longtime Dhall & Nash customers will remember years ago, when our portfolio held a champagne with a small hedgehog on the label… 

This gem was Champagne Georges Laval – an organic grower Maison on the banks of the Marne River cultivating just a couple of hectares of vines on the south-facing, amphitheater-shaped slopes.

We haven’t brought Champagne Laval in for a few years – producing less than 30,000 bottles of champagne per year means it can be challenging to secure stock. 

The Laval name may not be one of the Glitzy Grande Marques, but those who know it and appreciate its boutique nature ask for it by name… even here in NZ, years on since its been in stock.

To those that haven’t forgotten and have asked over the years, and to those who want in on the Laval bandwagon, we have some excellent news for you. 

We are bringing in not just the one cuvée, but six different wines from Georges Laval, arriving late July, including two new releases from recently acquired historical family plots, one of which is producing Coteaux Champenois – a still red wine! 

Champagne as a region has evolved into three distinct types of producer;

• The négociant houses, (24 of which are Grand Marques or ‘Great Brands’),
• The co-operatives,
• The grower producers – known as Récoltant Manipulant (RM on any Grower Champagne Label)

The 24 Grade Marques are names you’ll likely know: Ayala, Billecart-Salmon, Bollinger, Canard-Duchêne, Deutz, Gosset, Charles Heidsieck, Heidsieck & Co Monopole, Krug, Lanson, Laurent-Perrier, Mercier, Moët & Chandon, GH Mumm, Joseph Perrier, Perrier-Jouët, Piper-Heidsieck, Pol Roger, Pommery, Louis Roederer, Ruinart, Salon, Taittinger and Veuve Clicquot.

The growers have been around for as long as the Maisons. Their families have owned the land for centuries, and in many cases they have supplied the same Maisons with a large proportion of their grapes for just as long. 

No Maison owns all the land outright from which they produce, and so the Growers have enjoyed a harmonious, prosperous and long-lived relationship in return. They grow the grapes, and they sell them to the négociants and co-operatives.

This system has evolved through the generations as estates have been divided amongst family members through succession and inheritance and now the average Champagne grower now owns approx. 0.7 hectares. 

More recently, though, some growers have begun to hold back select parcels for themselves…

Whilst still selling grapes to their respective Maisons, they are now producing their own Champagnes and labels. Honestly, it isn’t the beginning of a lot of these guys’ winemaking experience as many would often make a few cases each vintage to enjoy themselves or with family and friends, but as the market evolves, many have seen (and grasped), an opportunity.

This has really arisen from a more open consumer mindset. They’re more willing to experience a diverse range of styles and terroir as ‘big names’ become more easily accessible and lose a little bit of the star-power they’ve enjoyed for so long. People are dipping their toes into other pools, so to speak. 

While Maisons and large brands offer familiarity and accessibility afforded by careful quality management and broad international recognition, it’s the human condition to seek expression and individuality, even within our drinks choices. 

To say that ‘small is beautiful’ and ‘big is bad’ – is not a fair comment for the rise of the grower in Champagne. Large Négociants/Maisons can and do produce exceptional Cuvées – however this is no longer exclusively their domain.There are some valiant Davids amongst these vinous Goliaths.

The ability to sample and explore offerings from what is actually one of the most diverse wine regions on the planet (due to the tensions created between the Oceanic and Continental weather systems proverbially ‘fighting it out’ over the sloping hills of Champagne,) means that there is room for these grower producers to start to shine.

The secret of the growers is their intimate knowledge of their best parcels, and that these parcels show such unique sensory aspects from their land.

They truly add landscape and colour to the tapestry of Champagne. For sure, many Négociants wish that they were receiving these parcels for themselves as they have in the past – but there is a growing acceptance that this diversity is adding value for all Champagnes in the region. The producers and growers have always been a very tight community – you will often find Chef de Caves from various Maisons dining, drinking and sharing time with their grower friends.

The parcels selected by the growers for their own labels are often organic or biodynamic. They search for the deepest and healthiest root systems to produce the best Champagnes. After all, it is generally agreed that the greatest wines come from great vineyards, and who better to know the greatest vineyards than the hands that tend?

The Laval family has been established in the Cumières subregion of Champagne since 1694, and one of their proudest points of difference is their dedication to organic viticulture. 

It was in 1971 that proprietor Georges Laval officially adopted “organic” farming methods, using natural and artisanal techniques that had been passed down and implemented but not given a certified label until this time. Today, the independent inspection body Ecocert (FR-BIO-01) certifies their organic production methods.

Tyson Stelzer, author of numerous Champagne guides and 2025 International Wine & Spirit Communicator of the Year visited the estate and saw for himself the results of their work i n the vineyards. 

“A dramatic display on their cellar wall bears stark testimony to this: two vines, one with deep, strong roots plunging vertically downward; the other with just a thin web of surface roots. The first was planted by Vincent’s grandfather in an organic vineyard, and the second at a similar time on the same soils in a neighbour’s vineyard, managed using traditional viticulture. When the family purchased the neighbour’s vineyard, they ripped it up and replanted. “We are lucky to be on chalk, and we must taste the chalk in our wines,’ Laval declares.”

In 1996, as heir to this precious family expertise, Vincent Laval took over the reins of the estate.  He’s extremely dedicated to preserving the organic heritage and expanding their holdings. As is tradition, the champagne he bottles bear his fathers name – Georges Laval.

“Since 2020, we have been acquiring new vineyard plots in the Premier Cru terroir of Cumières,” and have expanded their holdings from around 2.7ha to 4ha today.

There are six full-time workers at the vineyard helping Vincent – Dylan, Raphaël, Manon, Lucas, and Mathilde. These twelve hands are the ones who have made every wine the estate puts forward. Across the parcels they own, the average vine age is over 30 years, with the oldest vines of the estate over 80 years of age.

The winemaking at the estate mirrors the viticulture’s ancestral sympathies. Seeing as Laval is so parcel driven, they like to maintain as much control as possible over the first handling. After harvest, the grapes are pressed in traditional Coquard vertical presses. They hold 2,000 kg (the minimum size allowed in Champagne) and 3,200 kg. They utilise indigenous yeasts and ferment in oak barrels without chaptalization. The use of sulphur is avoided, and is very restrained when implemented. There is no fining or filtration.

The next cuvées are special. As is traditional, the bottles produced by family estates are often adorned with their father’s or predecessor’s name – hence ‘Georges Laval’. These next bottlings are new releases and bear Vincent’s name

We represent a number of growers in addition to Champagne Laval, explore more here:

• André Clouet
• Egly-Ouriet
• Larmandier-Bernier

If you’ve spent any time perusing wine shops overseas, you’ve likely seen Zaccagnini, and now we’re SO excited to be bringing it here to NZ so we can join the party!

If its unique ‘hand drawn’ label wasn’t eye-catching enough, its trademark ‘Tralcetto’ twig certainly is. The combination of both makes this line from Zaccagnini a very exciting conversation-starter indeed, and that’s before you even open it!

The old world regions have some mighty fine drops but they also often come with mighty fine price tags. Top end Tuscany and big-time Bordeaux are real end-game wines for serious collectors but at Dhall & Nash we take great delight in unearthing stand-out drops across the spectrum. Well-established but comparatively less “glitzy” regions like Abruzzo have all the savoir-faire to produce absolute stars that offer extremely broad approachability with much friendlier price tags, as this newcomer so perfectly exemplifies. 

Front and centre on the bottle (and now front and centre on this blog), you can’t get to Zaccagnini without going past the twig.

Every bottle of Zaccagnini’s ‘Tralcetto’ range has a twig from the vineyards hand-tied to the neck. The Zaccagnini team are extremely passionate artisans with a deep love and respect for their land. This is a quality we find reflected in so many of our winery partners, and one we actively look for when selecting them, but the famous Zaccagnini twig is their special extra way to bring the vine to us and to share in celebrating and honouring the work the vineyards and the people put in to creating the wines.

But the iconic Tralcetto has become so much more in its representation of the people and the land. It is a symbol, an extended branch (literally) from the makers to the consumers, and acts as a promise…

After many generations of grapegrowing in the Abruzzo region, Cantina Zaccagnini officially started in 1978 as ‘Azienda Agricol Ciccio Zaccagnini’ and made around 1000 bottles a year. When Ciccio’s son, Marcello came on board shortly after its inception, he decided to mold the company producing high quality Italian wine with a young and innovative style. 

This proved a wise move. Heritage in Italy is important, and the traditional respect for the soil and vine is inherent, but by sharing that with the world in the way Marcello spearheaded, they’ve grown exponentially.

From their humble 1000 bottle beginnings, Zaccagnini now produces around 500,000 cases of premium wine a year. “My family were grape farmers, I was young – not even 20 years old – and I decided to take a different direction – making and bottling wine,” Marcello explained to Winesu.

“There are about 150 of us working in the winery, 90% are people who live here where I was born – a small village with just 250 inhabitants. Almost the whole village works with us here in the winery.” 

“’Total Quality’ is the fundamental element in keeping Zaccagnini successful,” Zaccagnini states, “We want to satisfy our customers because ultimately, they are the ones that guarantee the development and progress of our company.”

Zaccagnini’s winemaker and enologist, Concezio Marulli, is meticulous in applying the ‘total quality’ ethos championed by Zaccagnini. He is constantly researching new vine clones and fermentation techniques in the state of the art, on-premises laboratory.

“High quality wine is born in the vineyard, grows in the cellar, and becomes noble by bottle aging,’’ he told Syngenta Group. 

Concezio is passionate about the region and its ecological health. Speaking to Winesu, he explains that “the microclimate here is exceptional. We’re in the area of Abruzzo which is most suited to wine growing.”

Montepulciano understandably holds a special interest for him, being the flagship wine of the region and of Zaccagnini, “It is soft and velvety with great persistence. The mission for this wine was to make a balanced Montepulciano.”

‘Wine, the Art of Man’ is on every label of Zaccagnini, and it’s not just a throw away statement. 

A real point of difference for Zaccagnini is the melding of art and wine in their work. Wine is a form of art, so naturally the Zaccagnini team is passionate about art and the community beyond the wine too. It’s all interconnected.

When Marcello Zaccagnini started to really look at how to make this wine, he wanted it to be something more. It started with the wine itself, “The problem wasn’t just about how to transform the grapes, the pressing and things, but how to style the finished product,” he explained. “Create a label, the packaging… a design to best represent me.”

Then, it expanded. Now, Zaccagnini is known for its extensive art and sculpture collection at the winery. Its aim was to become a cultural reference point for artists, musicians, writers and enthusiasts. Some of the important events that the winery has hosted include the “Premio Nazionale Giuseppe Prisco” and the “Tralcetto dell’Amicizia”. 

“The vineyards and Cantina Zaccagnini are places where you can breathe art, every day. This is why we have created a unique gallery where you can stroll among the works of contemporary artists such as Joseph Beuys, Mimmo Paladino, Pietro Cascella, Diego Esposito, Bizhan Bassiri, Franco Summa, David Bade, Gino Sabatini Odoardi, Simone Zaccagnini, Sandro Visca, Dino Colalongo and Mauro Berrettini.”

“The winery… is a unique example of wine production area turned into a museum of contemporary art,” states blogger Abruzzo4foodies, “Visiting the wine estate is a pure joy to any art and wine lover.”

“A Fusion of Art, Soul, and Sustainability,”

the wine blogger ‘Wine Divaa’ muses. “Stepping into Cantina Zaccagnini was an immersive experience where art and the spirit of Abruzzo intertwine… I was captivated by some of the pieces and how they appeal to their own history. A mural in one of their barrel rooms showcases the Zaccagnini history from the foundation date until the 2000s and how the ups and downs are portrayed to remember the challenges on their path.”

The famous hand-tied stick was initially a tribute to the German artist, Joseph Beuys, who has inspired a lot of practices at the winery in their mission to work with nature, not against it. 

As well as being an influential and inspiring artist involved with the estate from its early inception, Joseph Beuys was an early proponent for sustainability. His artwork was performative and thought-provoking, with the aim to heal the broken relationship between humanity and nature. He felt that incessant rationality was overtaking emotion and connection, and this rift was separating us from nature.

The Zaccagnini family was good friends with Beuys, and even hosted a presentation of his famous campaign, “Defense of Nature”, which he called a “social sculpture” – essentially a performance that was well documented to bring awareness to the cause.

This campaign has since gained great attention. Official photographs from it are housed in the Tate, in the ARTIST ROOMS Collection and exhibitions are still being shown of this work at renowned galleries such as the Guggenheim and The Broad to this day.

Whilst the Guggenheim is an excellent place to leave a legacy, Beuys’s influence lives on in the Zaccagnini winery too. Not just in its ethos, but physically and tangibly. He frequently visited the winery throughout the early and mid 80s, and thus it’s now home to a number of his pieces.

Concezio Marulli believes their position within Abruzzo lends them the unique privilege of being able to maintain meaningful production without compromising the quality of the environment. 

“This microclimate reduces the number of treatments the grapes need,” he told Winesu, “That means a more sustainable and healthier environment. The winery works in accordance with all quality standards and certificates, so we can monitor the quality of our water, air and soils. 

We’ve created a green oasis in this area by planting 500 oak trees following the philosophy of the German artist, Joseph Beuys, working in “defense of nature”.” 

Decanter paints a romantic vision of Zaccagnini’s corner of the world, “In the rolling hills of Bolognano, the Zaccagnini winery is set against the backdrop of the distinctive regional landscape of rolling hills of Bolognano, the sea and the Apennine mountains, with the historic Romanesque abbey of San Clemente a Casauria nearby.”

Abruzzo is on the eastern coast of Italy, on the ‘calf’ of the boot. It’s a region defined by its unique combination of mountainous terrain and proximity to the ocean – truly the best of both worlds. 

Tuscany, to the regions North-West, is more well-known internationally than Abruzzo. This is for a couple of reasons. Firstly, the long Adriatic coastline that the Abruzzo region boasts is a hugely popular tourist destination and thus, a lot of the wine is enjoyed locally on the spot by visitors! But it’s also thought that seeing as the mountains separated the region from Rome to the west, they had less of an influence so were able to forge their own vinous identity, distinct from the roman-inspired Tuscan Sangiovese offerings. 

Whilst it is overshadowed as a winemaking region, it’s no small player. It produces more than 22 million cases of wine each year, making it the fifth most productive region in Italy.

Around 21.5% of the Abruzzo production is ‘denominazione di origine controllata’ (DOC), and more than two-thirds of the region’s wine is produced by co-operatives or sold to negociants in other Italian wine regions.

The mountainous terrain that defines the region is a secret weapon in producing the delicious, food-friendly bottlings that it’s known for. Some of the vineyards are over 600m above sea level, and the ruggedness and altitude lends a lot of protection and shelter from storms from the west. 

The Mediterranean climate (courtesy of the expansive Adriatic coastline,) and dry, oceanic breeze over the summer can produce prodigious yields from the vineyards.

Vintage variation can be significant, though, due to the varied rainfall the region receives. While the storms that approach from the west are often thwarted by the mountains, the eastern storms are a different story. They can get ‘trapped’ by the mountains and can stay over the region for longer periods of time. Some of the 1990’s vintages from Abruzzo were pretty stressful given some good deluges. 

Abruzzo’s flagship wine is Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from their native Montepulciano grapes (not to be confused with Vino Nobile di Montepulciano from Tuscany, which is primarily Sangiovese from the village called Montepulciano). 

Montepulciano has a reputation for being an easy-drinking wine. It’s fruity and forward with soft tannins and a light peppery interest. 

Zaccagnini – like many of the wineries in this region – holds Montepulciano close to its heart.

“It is the wine which Zaccagnini started with, which he invested in most,” Concezio Marulli explains. “The color is extracted from the skins through maceration for seven to ten days at a controlled temperature. The most important step is the aging in oak casks, which creates a unique wine. It is soft and velvety with great persistence. The mission for this wine was to make a balanced Montepulciano. It has this ruby red color with some purplish reflections. Its fruity bouquet is reminiscent of blackberry and violets in the mouth. It’s smooth – very pleasing – with great persistence. An absolutely harmonious wine.”

Montepulciano is beloved by locals and visitors, and is enjoyed thoroughly in the region. It’s incredibly food friendly and naturally sings alongside Italian cuisine, though it’s a bit of an over-achiever for matching. Enzo Vogliolo, Zaccagnini’s CCO, finds it incredible and thrilling seeing it make waves overseas, telling Winesu that it’s “A very versatile wine which pairs well with lots of cuisine, born to accompany Italian cooking. Now it is served with food from all over the world!”

Together with Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is one of the most widely exported DOC wines from Italy, particularly to the United States, of which Zaccagnini is a notable leader.

Abruzzo’s white signature grape is Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. It’s a high-yielding and reliable varietal that produces versatile, light-bodied wines with soft fruit, floral flavours and crisp acidity.

Similar to Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Trebbiano has struggled to distance itself from its false Tuscan counterpart. It was once thought to have been a clone of “Trebbiano Toscano” but is now understood to actually be a southern Italian white grape called ‘Bombino bianco’.

“Its origins are certainly Italian, but the exact location remains uncertain due to numerous places that reference this name. Trebbiano’s widespread popularity is due to its resistance to diseases and pests, its adaptability, and its high productivity,” explains Gambero Rosso.

Trebbiano’s reputation is not ‘glitzy’ but it is consistent, rarely blowing people away but similarly rarely disappointing anyone, and in fact its reputation is undergoing somewhat of a transcendence at the moment, with Gambero Rosso noting that “Trebbiano is making a comeback, with producers aiming to restore this classic white with versions released after at least a year. We found complex and nuanced wines that grew more interesting with age.”

So it would seem the world of wine is catching up with what the locals already know: you can’t go wrong with Trebbiano.

At Dhall & Nash, one of our core values is that we respect those who create wonders by patiently loving, toiling and knowing their small piece of earth through the generations. So when we were researching a new wine that had come across our desks and we saw their ethos, our interest was definitely piqued… 

And thus, we are proud to introduce to our portfolio Enzo Bartoli.

Or rather, what is Enzo Bartoli? Because Enzo Bartoli is not a person.

In their own words, Enzo Bartoli is an identity that encapsulates the idea of style.

It is the signature that seals a collection of wines capable of telling, with minimalistic elegance, the sartorial soul of Piedmont.

Essentially, Enzo Bartoli is a brand rather than an individual winery. It’s an overarching operation that works with a number of selected – often smaller – growers and producers across Piedmont to present a thoughtfully curated collection that best represents the region. It’s a similar operation to a cooperative.

It’s this broad but careful sourcing that allows them to offer authentic Piedmontese wines at accessible price points. They use their market appeal and sizable brand positioning as the vehicle to allow these smaller operations to have their wines enjoyed across the world at a scale that they probably would have not experienced otherwise. They use their ‘Goliath’ to amplify the ‘Davids’ across the region.

Enzo Bartoli uses the concept of ‘Piemonte Couture’ as the overarching vehicle to present their curated selections.

Piemonte Couture blurs the line between wine and lifestyle. They are already intertwined concepts but Enzo Bartoli brings them a step closer. By implementing a minimalistic, refined and clean presentation it creates a signature look that doesn’t overstep and lets the wine itself shine.

Enzo Bartoli has created a selection that reflects the most authentic identity of the territory, read with stylistic rigor and attention to expressive recognizability.

Enzo Bartoli has borrowed the concept of Couture from the world of high-fashion, seeing a lot of parallels. Handmade, exclusive, and a serious statement, they say that “To drink Enzo Bartoli is to wear Piemonte on your sleeve.”

Piedmont (or Piemonte in Italian), is the north-western-most region in the country, sitting at the foot of the Alps and bordering Switzerland and France. The name quite literally means “foot of the mountain” deriving from “ped montes” or “piè di monte”.

The wines from Piedmont are among the most premium Italian offerings, with famous bottlings of Barolo & Barbaresco (both made from Nebbiolo), being the most renowned from the region. Interestingly, despite being the most famed, they only account for about 3% of the wine.

Italy was historically called ‘Oenotrua’ by the ancient Greeks, meaning “land of the vines”, as the native grape vines that grew there were so prolific, so it’s no surprise that winemaking is such an intrinsic part of the national culture, and Piedmont is no different in this sense.

Bordering France meant that Piedmont developed an interesting blended winemaking identity. It’s got the native Italian grapes and terroir, but the winemaking styles were influenced by French techniques, particularly from Burgundy, as is evidenced by a preference for unblended wines that showcase varietal styles.

The defining characteristic of Piedmont is its Alpine position. It’s situated to the northwest with a coastline along the Mediterranean Sea and the Alps along its border. It’s a hilly region that traps sea fog in Autumn and is phenomenally picturesque.

The terrain, due to the mountains and valleys, is somewhat rugged, leaving only around 30% of the region suitable for viticulture. The winemakers in the region are particular about what grapes are planted where, and the hillsides are cultivated with varietals that are the most suited.

Contrary to New Zealand where the northern aspects are the coveted warm, sunny ones, the southern aspects are where it’s at in this hemisphere. Southern facing vineyards are typically planted with Nebbiolo and Barbera while the northern ones are planted with varieties that can tolerate a bit more chill, like Dolcetto or Moscato.

The fog that settles over the rugged valleys and peaks is not just emblematic of the region, but is symbiotic with the native Nebbiolo grapes. The fog aids in its ripening and thus, its original name “Nebieu” comes from the Piedmontese word “nebia” meaning “fog”.

Piedmont (or Piemonte in Italian), is the north-western-most region in the country, sitting at the foot of the Alps and bordering Switzerland and France. The name quite literally means “foot of the mountain” deriving from “ped montes” or “piè di monte”.

The wines from Piedmont are among the most premium Italian offerings, with famous bottlings of Barolo & Barbaresco (both made from Nebbiolo), being the most renowned from the region. Interestingly, despite being the most famed, they only account for about 3% of the wine.

Move over savvy, take a hike riesling, there simply isn’t a better warm weather wine than under-rated, under-appreciated Grüner Veltliner. Yes, the name is a mouthful, but hospo wine geeks have handily shortened it to “groonie” …

It might be new to you, and it could be a IYKYK “if you know you know” kinda vibe for this exciting indigenous Austrian grape variety – Grüner Veltliner pronounced GREW-ner FELT-leaner, also fondly nicknamed Grüner, GV, groonie, and Gru-Vee (groovy), but whichever way you pronounce it, Grüner Veltliner has effected a Cinderella like transformation over recent years, thanks to the likes of GV specialist Laurenz V in the Kamptal region of Austria.

LAURENZ V (pron. Laurenz Five) represents the essence of what Dhall & Nash does best: searching those offbeat appellations to discover truly singular wines from boutique wine estates that defy pigeon-holing and yet surpass all our expectations. 

Grüner Veltliner has been a darling of sommeliers and wine geeks for a while now, but these vinous treasures weren’t easy to find – until now!

D & N is excited to welcome LAURENZ V to our stable of exceptional artisans. They are renown for producing elegant, age worthy styles of Grüner Veltliner that have captivated the international market par excellence. 

Master of Wine, Jancis Robinson extols ” the quality of all Austrian wines has become so excitingly and consistently high that no fine wine enthusiast can afford to ignore them.”

Although 2004 was the official beginning of the estate, founded by Lenz Moser V with two partners, Dieter Hubler and the Schweiger family, it has older roots and a remarkable pedigree to trace by delving into the family history of one of the founding members, Lenz Maria Moser V. 

Lenz is the fifth generation of the Austrian Lenz Moser wine dynasty and the 15th in the direct lineage of the Moser family. They have been in the wine business since 1610, with the first mention of the Moser family in their home village of Rohrendorf (Lower Austria) dating back to 1124.

Lenz V pursued a dual university education at Austria’s famous Klosterneuburg in business and oenology. Even with his formal education, Lenz credits his life inspiration and his oenological knowledge to his grandfather, the legendary Professor Dr. Lorenz Moser III. He invented and developed the ubiquitous trellising system called the “Lenz Moser Hocherziehung” (now modern vertical trellising), which revolutionized vineyard cultivation around the world. Through this system, he ultimately developed GV into the ideal white wine variety to cultivate in Austria and over time definitively popularised the variety, becoming known as Grandpa Grüner. Today, a third of the total Austrian viticultural areas are planted with Grüner Veltliner, making it the most popular variety and an international signature wine for Austria.

Those were big shoes to fill for Lenz V who didn’t shy far. The younger Lenz’s impressive career in wine began at the family’s Lenz Moser Winery (Austria’s pre-eminent wine producer) as General Manager for 10 years. In 1997 Lenz was asked to join Napa Valley’s Robert Mondavi as European manager for nine years until it was sold to the Constellation Group. 

Continuing on with his Grandpa Grüner’s mission, in 2004 Lenz returned to his Austrian roots by founding LAURENZ V with two partners Dieter Huebler and Franz Schweiger. The sole grape variety they focussed on was Grüner Veltliner. 

So, Lenz and his partners at Laurenz V have become the modern ambassadors for the varietal, holding to the objective of establishing Austria’s signature grape amongst the premier white wines of the world. We believe they have achieved this admirably!

At The Winery

The company’s winemaker since its inception, is the exceptionally skilled Peter Schweiger, brother of Franz, whose winemaking heritage in Kamptal dates back five generations. Assisting him is his son, Peter Jr., who graduated from wine studies in 2012. 

Despite retaining a deep connection to their vineyard’s history, Laurenz V Winery integrates state-of-the-art technology and innovative techniques to enhance its wine production process. This melange of tradition and innovation allows them to maximise the potential of the Grüner Veltliner grapes, ensuring the cultivation of the most exceptional wine possible.

They aim to offer wines of excellent quality and pure vinous enjoyment with a modern approach, attracting more enthusiasts to this outstanding grape variety. The Laurenz V wines display brisk acidity, with unusually-pronounced concentration of flavour, voluptuous texture and vibrant minerality. They are also remarkably easy to pair with a broad range of cuisines.

Terroir

Terroir is key for Laurenz V in Kamptal. The Austrian wine-growing region of Kamptal is characterized by its gentle hills that nestle up against each other. Every now and then, shimmering granite rocks flash through – and right through the middle of it flows the river Kamp beside which lies the winery Laurenz V. 

They say the right bank of the river Kamp gives Gruner creaminess and length, and the left bank’s granite and mica-slate soils account for the minerality and freshness of Laurenz V’s classic style. 

Cold air from the north lowers night-time temperatures to slow the ripening process, which is crucial in producing the concentrated style of Gruner that Laurenz V is so well known for. Perfect diurnal conditions.

They also source grapes from trusted growers in the Kremstal region of Lower Austria, where Gruner Veltliner reaches optimal ripeness while retaining its trademark energy and acid structure.

Sustainability

Laurenz V’s offering isn’t merely encapsulated by distinct quality and flavour, but also by their recognition in sustainability. They strive for a delicate balance between maintaining their natural environment and the need for productivity which was made evident in 2019 when they received the Austrian Sustainability Seal – a significant accolade in the industry. From 2020 onwards they now use an eco-friendly lightweight bottle that reduces the weight of a case of wine by over one kilogram.

Laurenz V. has been instrumental in propelling Austrian Grüner Veltliner into the international spotlight. Laurenz V wines are enjoyed in 45 countries around the world and served in fine restaurants from Dublin to Dubai. The winery produces seven distinct proprietary Grüner Veltliners, two of which are currently available from Dhall & Nash in NZ: 

“Grüner Veltliner” translates to “Green Veltliner,” referencing the Veltlin region in the Alps – now part of northern Italy – even though the grape itself is native to Austria. Back in the 16th and 17th centuries, this Alpine area was part of the Holy Roman Empire and later came under Austrian Habsburg control, so it had strong political and cultural ties to Austria. 

The Grüner Veltliner name itself can be traced to 1855 when it was first mentioned, before that time it was known as Weißgipfler.

That said, despite the name, Grüner Veltliner is not genetically linked to any grapes from Valtellina. Ampelographers believe the name was more of a stylistic or regional nod than a literal origin story. The grape itself is indigenous to Austria, particularly Lower Austria (Niederösterreich), and its parentage includes Savagnin (Traminer) and a nearly extinct Austrian variety discovered in Burgenland, St. Georgener. It is an ancient natural cross.

Only by the 1930s was Grüner Veltliner established as the standard name of the grape. Until the Second World War, it was regarded as just another Austrian grape, but after the introduction of Lenz Moser’s Hochkultur system of vine training, its planting expanded quickly  from the 1950s to later become Austria’s most planted variety with over 30% of total vineyards planted in GV.

Recognition:

In recent years, Grüner Veltliner deservedly, has seen an uptick in interest following the results of a 2002 wine tasting organized by Masters of Wine Jancis Robinson and Tim Atkin. Here Grüner Veltliner from Austria beat out several highly acclaimed white Grand cru wines from Burgundy. The merited attention was then firmly upon this unique grape variety.

Pepper Power:

Grüner Veltliner’s superpower is its signature white pepper aroma and flavour that comes from a compound called rotundone, the same one found in Syrah. It’s also important to not confuse the rotundone peppery notes of Grüner Veltliner with pyrazine, green bell pepper notes in other wines like NZ’s Sauvignon Blanc. These are two completely different classes of chemical compounds and rotundone doesn’t give off “vegetal green” pepper or spice notes like pyrazine often does.

Versatile Styles and in Food Pairing:

Grüner ranges from light and zesty to rich and age-worthy. In regions like Wachau, top-tier styles are labelled Smaragd and can rival fine white Burgundies. Because of its food-friendliness, Gruner needs to show up more on wine lists across the country. It’s thanks to its high acidity and subtle spice – it pairs perfectly with white meat dishes like Wiener Schnitzel, and excels with challenging green vegetables (asparagus, artichokes), spicy Asian cuisine (Thai, Vietnamese, Indian), seafood, and fresh cheeses. A true chameleon wine. 

Ages Gracefully:

While many Grüners are meant to be enjoyed young, the best examples can age for a decade or more, developing nutty, waxy, and honeyed complexity not unlike the characters of an aged Riesling or semillon.

Austria is well known for Mozart, schnitzel, Sacher torte, and The Sound of Music, but how aware are we of its viticulture? During the 19th century, Austria’s wine industry boomed, but many setbacks in the 20th century almost eradicated it. However, it has reemerged riding on the back of its unique and popular grape: Grüner Veltliner. New and exciting red wines made from Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch have received rave reviews and may indicate the start of the second wave of distinctive wine exports from Austria. Watch the D&N space!

Historically, wine came to Austria via the Celts in 700 BC. In the first century BC, the Romans further advanced winemaking by improving production techniques. After the fall of the Roman Empire, however, winemaking stagnated. In the 9th century, Charlemagne encouraged winemaking and instituted new guidelines. Cistercian monks further advanced wine production by introducing Burgundian methods in the Dark Ages, and by the 15th century, vineyards covered most regions of Austria.

Phylloxera

Austrian winemaking continued to thrive until the late 1800s when mildew and phylloxera devastated the vines throughout the country. Further decline occurred after World War I and the collapse of the Habsburg Monarchy when 30% of Austrian vines were lost as portions of Austria were annexed to other countries. The Soviets further plundered winemaking with the collapse of Nazi Germany after World War II. As a result, the wine industry started making low-quality, mass-produced wine.

The Anti-Freeze Scandal

The most significant embarrassment to Austrian wine culture occurred in the mid-1980s when the government found that some winemakers had added ethylene glycol (antifreeze) to their wines to increase “sweetness”. As a result, the Austrian industry fell into chaos, and exports dropped substantially.

Renewal

So, how do you solve a problem like a bad reputation? In 1986, the Austrian Wine Marketing Board was established. After that, strict wine laws were increasingly put in place, culminating in 2009 with the passage of the Austrian Wine Act. The government guaranteed wine regulation and quality, and the results have exceeded expectations.

Since 2023, Austrian law allows for an official single-vineyard hierarchy – similar to France’s Premier Cru and Grand Cru system that can appear on Austrian wine labels. It introduces Ried (“vineyard”) designations and optional tiers like Erste Lage and Große Lage, which will be gradually implemented across DAC regions.

Distinctive Wine Capsules

A surefire way of recognising quality on Austrian wine labels is to look for the eye-catching red-white-red banderole on the capsule or screw-cap. This means the wine has passed official tasting and analytical controls for the Qualitätswein level. You’ll often also find a Prüfnummer, a state control number confirming approval.

Austria’s Wine Regions are in good company so to speak, primarily around the 47th and 48th parallel. For comparison, the 47th Parallel is Beaune in Burgundy. Similarly to NZ, Austria is a cool climate growing region. But it’s a very small player internationally, producing less than 1% of the global wine production. 

Austria’s Wine Country is in the Eastern part of Austria – mainly surrounding the Capital, Vienna with approximately 45.000 ha (110,000 acres) of vineyards – 65% in White, 35% in Red.

Austria’s DAC Classifications:

Austria’s labels look similar to German ones – yes, a tad confusing to the uninitiated. But since 2002, the country has had its own appellation system: DAC – Districtus Austriae Controllatus. It’s essentially Austria’s version of the French AOP or Italian DOC, designed to highlight regional typicity rather than just grape ripeness. Still, both systems coexist – the traditional ripeness-based classification (Prädikat) and the origin-based DAC system. 

There are 18 DAC regions across the country, each tied to its own signature grapes and styles. Each DAC may include sub-zones, vineyard names, and individual village designations. This system hasn’t replaced the Prädikat system, but where both are present, this takes precedence over any consideration of Prädikat. 

Lower Austria (Niederösterreich)

• Weinviertel DAC – Grüner Veltliner only
• Kamptal DAC – Grüner Veltliner, Riesling
• Kremstal DAC – Grüner Veltliner, Riesling
• Traisental DAC – Grüner Veltliner, Riesling
• Wachau DAC – multiple varieties, led by Grüner Veltliner and Riesling
• Thermenregion DAC – new addition (since 2023), with indigenous grapes like Rotgipfler and Zierfandler
• Carnuntum DAC – blends of Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch, also white varieties

Burgenland

• Leithaberg DAC – Grüner Veltliner, Weißburgunder, Chardonnay, Blaufränkisch
• Eisenberg DAC – Blaufränkisch
• Mittelburgenland DAC – Blaufränkisch
• Neusiedlersee DAC – Zweigelt
• Rosalia DAC – Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt
• Ruster Ausbruch DAC – botrytised sweet wines (white varieties only)

Styria (Steiermark)

• Südsteiermark DAC – Sauvignon Blanc, Gelber Muskateller, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc etc.
• Vulkanland Steiermark DAC – aromatic whites and regional blends
• Weststeiermark DAC – home of Schilcher (Blauer Wildbacher)

Vienna (Wien)

• Wiener Gemischter Satz DAC – traditional field blend of multiple white grapes

In Austria, Grüner Veltliner is often thought to grow best on sandy, alluvial soils, with the vines neither liking too little or too much water, while Riesling is generally grown on the rockier and more rugged sites. However, there are also many fine examples of Grüner from more mineral sites that show how well the grape can express terroir.

Quite a versatile grape, Grüner’s ripeness can change it from being racy, lean, delicate and gently aromatic to one that can be decidedly rich, full-bodied and powerfully fruited, with the best aged Austrian examples often compared to white Burgundy. This similarity to the weight and texture of chardonnay sees some makers using oak. Additionally, although it draws many parallels with Riesling, rarely are there wines with noticeable residual sugar.

As our fave irreverent wine influencer Tom Gilbey touts groonie as “my favourite crisp fresh white wine value for money…It’s like Chenin Blanc meets Sav Blanc but it’s got so much energy to it!”

We’re onto a winner with groonie!

Simply Put: The value of LAURENZ V is unmatched. These wines have no peers at this price.

You’ll Never Forget This Producer Once You Try a Bottle or 3!