In News, Winery Spotlight, Wines, TravelJune 16, 2023

Puneet’s En Primeur Bordeaux Tour - Day 3

Wednesday, 26th April 2023

Bordeaux Report 2023 - Day 3: Visit 24

Every year, thousands from around the world descend upon Bordeaux for what the locals call “Crazy Week” where the wine industry’s finest come to visit the famous Chateaus of the region and sample hundreds of the latest vintages. In this third part of a series, Puneet recounts his experience visiting the region and just what to look out for from 2022.


DAY 3: Morning Visits

Brane Cantenac, Issan, Palmer, Rauzan Segla, Margaux

Visit 18: Château Brane Cantenac AOC Margaux second growth
Bordeaux Report 2023 - Day 3: Visit 18

Henri Lurton runs a tight ship here, but he sets his own mark and understands the individuality of people and the senses. In such a way he achieves uniqueness from his wines that sets him as a class above. The Estate is 75 Ha. In 2022 the small berries, particularly from The Merlot gave a denseness, suppleness and aromatic quality to thew wine. Henri fermented at cooler temperatures from a 100+ lots. At first the Grand vin had no poress additions, but he found the Cabernet sauvignon skin so amazing that he added some of this press to the Grand vin.

Visit Wine Sensory Type Sensory Score Total Score Notes
Brane-Cantenac Colour 3 18+ Aromatic, plush, smooth silky tannins ready to drink
Nose 6.5
Palate 8.5
Brane-Cantenac Château Brane Cantenac AOC Margaux second growth Colour 3 19+ Perfumed aromatics and blue fruit, energy, fresh, plush, blue, very long, smooth will be ready to drink very early, great
Nose 7
Palate 9
Visit 19: Château d’Issan AOC Margaux third growth
Bordeaux Report 2023 - Day 3: Visit 19

This Chateau’s architecture look and feel linger back to 1300 to 1600 AD. Its large stonework, its clos and moat with actual water. There is a mediaeval quality to the place – you expect trumpets to blare with coats of arms unfurling from the brass. The owners are very keen to work with New Zealand and open up Pacific markets.

Visit Wine Sensory Type Sensory Score Total Score Notes
Issan Blasson d’Issan AOC Margaux Colour 3 17 Good tannin and length, nice power, from the eatern edge of the estate, petit verdot is on own rootstock 44% Cabernet sauvignon 55% Merlot, 1% Petit verdot
Nose 6
Palate 8
Issan Château d’Issan AOC Margaux third growth Colour 3 17.5 Fresh, vibrant, tannin good but large will take a few years to mellow, unlike Brane which are already supple the malbec parcel adds to the blend 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, 2% Malbec, 1% Petit Verdot
Nose 6
Palate 8.5
Visit 20: Château Palmer AOC Margaux third growth

We are told at Palmer that the Merlot really adapted to conditions and although June through to harvest was record breaking heat, the Merlot developed ripe, complex and aromatic characters. The Chateau was relieved and confident for the future and really believe that the future is in Clay. Vine maintenance is also key with cover crops and biodynamic principles. Vineyard age also plays a key part in adaptation. Also as the intense heat started early, in May the vines again had some time to adapt to the heat before veraison and harvest.

Visit Wine Sensory Type Sensory Score Total Score Notes
Palmer Colour 3 18 Great nose so complex, intensity and good concentration on palate, plenty of flavour and lovely ripe tannins. The alter ego comes from about 1/3 of the estate mainly from gravel soils
Nose 6
Palate 8.5
Palmer Château Palmer AOC Margaux third growth Colour 3 18.5+ Delisious, power voluptuousness, elegance, dark fruit, firm structure, ripe wines are from deeper gravel and clay parts of the estate
Nose 6.5
Palate 9.5
Visit 21: Château Rauzan Ségla AOC Margaux second growth
Bordeaux Report 2023 - Day 3: Visit 21

A very cool visit – we were shown various samples from the barrel room – always a great help to understand more about why the final blend is as it is. The Chateau GM is very keen for her technical team to learn more English and is considering sending some of the team to New Zealand – I have promised them and many others fly fishing excursions around Taupo – and even with a helicopter thrown in to get to the higher streams!

Visit Wine Sensory Type Sensory Score Total Score Notes
Rauzan Ségla Château Rauzan Ségla AOC Margaux second growth Colour 3 17 Nice, savoury character, elegant and quite gentle, quite linear perhaos not as round and full as others 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot
Nose 6
Palate 8
Visit 22: Château Margaux AOC Margaux first growth

Managing director Philippe Bascaules conducted our tasting. And what a tasting. With the large Chateau we are escorted through several levels of security through a square gravel courtyard into a simple white conservatory lining the courtyard. Phillipe talks in depth about his work and the vines. He believes that removing leaves in extreme heat and therefore limiting the plants ability to photosynthesise is now a key philosophy for Margaux and a key reason to their success this year. He grants me permission after the tasting to take a photo down the path in front of the legendary Chateau. I do so with a copy of Ponsonby News.

Visit Wine Sensory Type Sensory Score Total Score Notes
Margaux Pavillon blanc du Château Margaux Colour 3 17 Nice, savoury character, elegant and quite gentle, quite linear perhaps not as round and full as others. 72% Cabernet sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot
Nose 6
Palate 8.5
Margaux Pavillon rouge du Château Margaux AOC Margaux Colour 3 18.5+ Exceptionally fragrant nose, so elegant, power, fresh, long length with concentration, velvety tannin, creamy 32% of crop
Nose 7
Palate 8.5
Margaux Château Margaux AOC Margaux first growth Colour 3 19.5 Exquisite nose, a fine fine palate, again fresh, amazing tannin ripe with texture and very long length and firm structure 40% of crop
Nose 7
Palate 9.5

DAY 3: Lunch

at Château Lascombes AOC Margaux second growth

Another incredibly picturesque Chateau and wow what a lunch – the best of the tour and more fit for a wedding. The string duo playing as we arrive, the bright lit room with exceptional china and tableware and the biggest cheese table ever with every great cheese from France represented – various vintages of aged Margaux on the table C’est magnifique, lunch was so good I take some extra time and skip the UGC margaux tasting – life’s pleasure must take precedent.

DAY 3: Afternoon Visits

Latour. Mouton, Lafite, Montrose, Duhart, Clerc Milon

Visit 23: Château Latour AOC Pauillac first growth

There is always an excitement when you visit one of the elite Chateau and for many Latour feels like the top one, although through these tasting I can see how each first growth is unique to its terroir and appellation. We have a tasting with an English gent which is different and of course all get quite excited as we leave to get pictures near the famous Tower – Latour!

Visit Wine Sensory Type Sensory Score Total Score Notes
Latour 18 Le Pauillax de Château Latour AOC Pauillac Colour 3 18.5 Really, really approachable, juicy, round, fruit driven joyful
Nose 6.5
Palate 9
Latour 22 Le Pauillax de Château Latour AOC Pauillac Colour 3 17.5 Round, plump, felsh, good mid palate 48.8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46.2% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot
Nose 6
Palate 8.5
Latour 17 Les Forts de Latour AOC Pauillac Colour 3 18.5 Blue, round and broad length also velvet big wine tasty
Nose 7
Palate 8.5
Latour 22 Les Forts de Latour AOC Pauillac Colour 3 18.5 Beautiful nose, fragrant aromatics, good power, fresh, nice tannins 58.7% Cabernet Sauvignon 37.9% Merlot 3.4% Petit Verdot
Nose 7
Palate 8.5
Latour 15 Château Latour AOC Pauillac first growth Colour 3 19.5 Wow, blue black fruit, slate, mineral, saline round and full, power elegance – this has it all
Nose 7
Palate 9.5
Latour 22 Château Latour AOC Pauillac first growth Colour 3 19 Perfect nose, so much aroma, vioets, very very large wine but elegant very long finish 92% Cabernet sauvignon 7.4% Merlot, 0.15% Petit Verdot
Nose 7
Palate 9
Visit 24: Château Clerc Milon AOC Pauillac fifth growth (includes Mouton Rothschild)

The company has a nice collection of Pauillac Chateau, and the wines are very well made, perhaps it was late in the day, or a crowded tasting room, these wines were shining but not shining brightly to me to knock my socks off, this is unusual given the level of greatness I am seeing elsewhere, I would love to revisit the Mouton again and reassess

Visit Wine Sensory Type Sensory Score Total Score Notes
Clerc Milon (Mouton R.) Pastourelle de Clerc Milon AOC Pauillac Colour 3 17.5+ Really good, great value, bright elegant and ripe tannins
Nose 6.5
Palate 8
Clerc Milon (Mouton R.) Château Clerc Milon AOC Pauillac fifth growth Colour 3 17-18.5 Great nose massive tannin will need a while perhaps after 2028 or so big power large concentration – I’d like to taste this gain in a few years
Nose 6.5
Palate 7.5
Clerc Milon (Mouton R.) Château d’Armailhac AOC Pauillac fifth growth Colour 3 17.5-18.5 Bright red/blue fruit juicy, full, round, more rip but still big tannin
Nose 6
Palate 8.5
Clerc Milon (Mouton R.) Le petit mouton de mouton rothschild AOC Pauillac Colour 3 16 Nose is not so great, palate is ok, tannins not bad, fruit is bright and some roundness to mouthfeel
Nose 5.5
Palate 7.5
Clerc Milon (Mouton R.) Château Mouton Rothschild AOC Pauillac first growth Colour 3 17.5-18.5 Nose is good, length is nice up front, dips a little in the middle and comes back well at the end, very nice finish
Nose 6
Palate 8.5
Visit 25: Château Lafite Rothschild AOC Pauillac first growth

I love this Chateau. The back of the Chateau opens up onto a deck which looks out over the most beautiful lake – true Monet style. My negociant tells me they had the Chateau to themselves for the evening a year ago, and 5 of them dined on the terrace overlooking the lake – I my gosh I hope that opportunity comes to me one day – its a bucket list thing!

Visit Wine Sensory Type Sensory Score Total Score Notes
Lafite-R Moulin de Duhart AOC Pauillac Colour 3 17 Good as you know bright fresh power, elegant although a little less tannin smooth at sacrifice of length although a good finish 87% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon
Nose 6
Palate 8.5
Lafite-R Château Duhart Milon Rothschild AOC Pauillac fourth growth Colour 3 17.5-18 Big. Plenty of power large tannin needs a lot of time 78% Cabernet sauvignon 22% merlot
Nose 6
Palate 8.5-9
Lafite-R Carruades de Lafite AOC Pauillac Colour 3 18+ Really nice good, racy, bright smooth tannin and length. 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot
Nose 6
Palate 9
Lafite-R Château Lafite Rothschild AOC Pauillac first growth Colour 3 19.5 Great! Red fruit balance refinement length amazing hint of menthol 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot
Nose 7
Palate
Visit 26: Château Montrose AOC Saint Estephe second growth
Bordeaux Report 2023 - Day 3: Visit 26

After last night’s party a return to the scene! We have a strong intelligent young guy present – Arnaud – he spent some time at Waiheke with Steve at Stonyridge, so we get on famously. Its the last tasting of the day and no engagements this evening. I down the Montrose!

Visit Wine Sensory Type Sensory Score Total Score Notes
Montrose Château TronquoyAOC Saint Estephe Colour 3 17.5 Good structure, finesse and power bright god fruit 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot
Nose 6
Palate 8.5
Montrose Dame de Montrose AOC Saint Estepehe Colour 3 18+ Delicous round, expressive powerfull ripe 71% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon,  5% Petit Verdot, 1% Cabernet Franc
Nose 6.5
Palate 8.5
Montrose Château Montrose AOC Saint Estephe second growth Colour 3 18.5-19.5 Really good ripe powerful round length, bright, fresh supple. 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot
Nose 6.5
Palate 9