When we first brought on Champagne André Clouet in 2017, we were astounded at the way it managed to capture the hearts and the palates of both our staff and customers immediately, casting a spell over everyone it encountered and wrapping us up in an instant vinous infatuation – we simply had to have it. 

At the time, we had only brought on their NV Grandé Reserve Brut – a 100% Pinot Noir Champagne from their family vineyards in Bouzy and adorned with an intricate blue and gold label designed in 1911. It wasn’t one of the ‘big’ Champagne names, but it carried with it a lot of respect and a detectable electric undercurrent of intrigue, reserved for only the most ‘boutique’ and ‘in-the-know’ of producers. We pretty quickly added their No.5 Brut Rosé and their V6 Experience cuvées to the line up who in time, have also garnered a passionate group of fans here in New Zealand.

And now, seven years after adding this historic and revered house to our stable, we are so excited to announce the upcoming arrival of a new cuvée. NV Chalky is perhaps the most beautiful, clean, minimalist and frankly, instagrammable bottle we’ve laid our eyes on, and it houses the first Blanc de Blancs cuvée from the king of Pinot Noir, proving this producer is more than a one-grape pony.

The Chardonnays that make up this cuvée grow one-third on the southern slopes of the Montagne de Reims and two-thirds on the Côte de Blancs.

Chalky is a particularly noteworthy addition to the Clouet lineup in that it’s a deviation from their cornerstone varietal, Pinot Noir. The other cuvées Clouet produces are all Blanc de Noirs from their vines in Bouzy, where Pinot Noir thrives. Jean-François – the winemaker and descendant of the domaine’s namesake, André Clouet – is never one to shy away from a challenge. Known for his uncanny knack at extracting balance, flavour, texture and character from this varietal – he’s also a big, charismatic and inherently curious personality. So while the pivot away from Blanc de Noirs may be intriguing, for anyone that knows about Jean-François Clouet, it’s really no surprise at all and perhaps even less surprising, is the fact he’s nailed it.

The Chalky Blanc de Blancs was aged for an astonishing 72 months on lees – or six years. The base wines of this initial NV release come from the “late-ripening, almost brutally brilliant year” (Lobenburg) 2013. Disgorgement was in 2021, with a dosage of 6g. The resulting wine is creamy, mineral and – you guessed it – chalky.

There’s two elements to the Champenois love affair with chalk; the vines and the cellars.

The Vines:

Chalk (limestone) makes for a naturally high pH, alkaline-rich soil, with neutral shades of white, grey or beige that can also reflect sunlight to promote photosynthesis. It’s origins began over 200 million years ago, after the Jurassic sea levels receded and tectonic shift exposed an array of fossilised shells, coral and other debris that had accumulated and formed calcified sediments on the ancient sea floor. These remains give limestone its distinctive chemical makeup, called calcium carbonate.

This calcium carbonate content is extremely beneficial for vines. First, it offers incredible water retention capabilities while simultaneously permitting excellent drainage. Secondly, calcium rich limestone soils tend to have a higher pH than other soils, which translates to easier nutrient absorption and higher acidity levels in fruit that aids age-ability to the wines. Third, the high calcium content in limestone also helps berries fight off diseases. When calcium content in soils is low, grapes begin to prioritise their inner health rather than skin health, which in turn, makes clusters more susceptible to disease and rot.

All of this to say, fruit grown in limestone soils generally has bright acidity and solid structure, which then lead to wines of serious age worthy potential. (Read more about soil types and their impacts on vines here).

The Cellars:

Clouet explains, “Chalk is the protector of champagne as it ages, allowing itself to be dug into deep underground cellars, where the precious nectar can safely mature, tucked away from the light and fluctuations in temperature.”

Clouet’s cellar, where all of their cuvées age, was dug under their home in the 1700s. They have recently undertaken a project to expand their winemaking facilities and cellars, which is still in progress now.

The Clouet family history in Bouzy dates back to the 1400’s. Before their vinous adventures, the Clouet ancestors were the appointed printers for the French monarchs. Over the next 200 years and through several generations, the family slowly accumulated vineyards in Bouzy before finally, in 1741 they first started to make Champagne. Cellars were dug into the chalky soils and the family set down their roots officially in the town they’d spent several centuries in under the watchful eye of one André Clouet.

André Clouet’s descendants took over his estate, ensuring that it remained in the family. The property had aged but has now been modernised, and the team working to perpetuate the House of André Clouet is inspired above all by the desire to preserve the personality of its champagnes.

“Jean-François is deeply rooted in the heritage of his village,” explains Tyson Stelzer in his book, The Champagne Guide 2020-2021 Edition VI, “He still possesses his family’s request for a deed for the purchase of land in Champagne by their ancestors in 1689 and a letter from the 1820’s requesting an order of Rosé to be sent to Paris.”

A story the family loves to tell is that of André Clouet’s memorable interaction with Marie Antoinette. In 1770, the future Queen of France visited the vineyards in Bouzy and a dinner in her honour was organised in a castle not far from the village. Andre Clouet was in attendance and decided to entertain the guests at the Queen’s table by adding a few drops of red wine from their vineyards to the white wine. Known as “Bouzy Rouge,” this Vin des Sacres, was the red wine served to celebrate the crowning of the French Kings.

On that night, it’s said the ladies’ eyes began to sparkle with amazement as the white wine became pink!

The men raised a toast to the Queen and André Clouet proclaimed: “This is how we perfect Pinot Noir in Champagne! Now the Burgundians will just have to deal with it!”

A few years later, a cousin placed an order for some of this ‘pink wine’, but sparkling this time, for her “crazy English friends!”

Jean-François is the larger-than-life current generation of the Clouet line and is at the helm of this family Estate. Growing up amongst the vines, the vineyards are in his blood. He’s been described as many things – a wizard, a wonder, a ringmaster… and all of these may be true but there’s no doubt his legacy will also recognise him as a phenomenal vigneron.

A fun story he enjoys telling pertains to the tanks and barrels that age the wines;

“When I was a little boy, I loved walking around the wine-making cellar. In my imagination, the enormous wine tanks transformed and became champions, guardians, protectors of the wine…

“My Heroes! Creaking, wheezing, groaning, squealing, sweating… sometimes they even seemed to be laughing! I watched the noisy show, as some were gushing from their nozzles, while others were being filled up. I grew up learning to play with my heroes who live in the wine-cellars.

“Each has its own name and personality to share and their attributes come alive in the wines: Superman, Zeus, and Thor lend their power to the Cuvée Grande Reserve.

“Laser, D’artagnan and Zorro transmit their intensity, tension and minerality to the Brut Silver.

“Sophie Marceau, Heather Locklear and Michelle Pheiffer flirt beautifully with the Rosé.

“Rocky comes out swinging to make a Dream Vintage!

“As I blend to create champagne, I work to find the perfect balance of characteristics that come from all my remarkable, dauntless heroes: the Stainless Steel Giants.”

You can choose to take our word for it when it comes to Clouet’s brilliance, but if you don’t then you must listen to Tyson Stelzer.

Already quoted a few times in this piece, he is a multi-award winning wine writer, television host and producer and international speaker. Tyson has been named The International Wine & Spirit Communicator of the Year, The Australian Wine Communicator of the Year and The International Champagne Writer of the Year. He is the author and publisher of seventeen wine books, contributor to many wine magazines, a frequent judge and chair at Australian wine shows and a presenter at wine events in 12 countries. All this to say: he knows his wine and is great at articulating the magic where mere mortals fall short!

In 2017, Tyson published an article titled “Is this the most underrated champagne grower of all?” which is a poetic and beautiful summation of this Champagne House, which we’ve detailed below:

The (beautiful) elephant in the room here is undoubtedly the phenomenal packaging that Clouet’s Chalky is presented in.

You don’t have to look far to see where the inspiration was drawn from (really, just take a look at the cellars!), but the execution is simply as much of a visual masterpiece as the phenomenal juice it holds, and brilliantly announces the kind of ‘simple done well’ beauty that one can expect when opening the bottle.

They’ve taken ‘Chalky’ quite literally, and made the bottle and its gift box look like… well.. Chalk. But they’ve done it with stunning accuracy and still managed to weave the signature Clouet label branding through.

It’s sleek, minimalist, and draws the eye with its sheer modesty and sophistication. Frankly, we can’t imagine a situation where this bottle wouldn’t look divine. It’s the ideal bridal Champagne (imagine the wedding photos!) or celebratory tipple at any event. Little black dress? How about little white champagne…

Is there no end to the energy and brilliance of Parés Baltà’s wines and the creativity of its female winemakers. Absolutely not! There seems to be an unspoken obsession with pure expressions of terroir that really sets this estate apart. Each and every one of the Parés Baltà wines is distinctive, expressive, and stunningly scrumptious; not to mention, that their entry level Cava is multi-award winning and about the best value Methode Traditionnelle on offer. 

Obviously, we couldn’t hold out any longer! Dhall & Nash has nabbed another trio of their new wave still wines which are unfailingly brilliant.

Tasting these new wines demonstrated to us how the Parés Baltà team manage to combine all the right elements to achieve a balance of energy, complexity and drinkability that is nothing short of wine nirvana. Taste & see!

At Parés Baltà the focus is on seamlessly marrying the incredible purity of fruit with the primacy of their unique terroir. At the risk of sounding like a hard sell, you should go deep on this offer to give your palate a welcome blast— these are amongst the most transparently luscious and great value wines out of Spain. No question!

The Distinctive Wine Region – of Penedès D.O. is tucked away between coastal hills, south-west of Barcelona in Catalonia, and to the north-east of the other historic winemaking region of Tarragona. Penedès’s fame historically rests chiefly on its Cava sparkling wine (which was granted its own Denominación de Origen in 1991). Cava sparkling wines must be made according to the “Traditional Method” (secondary fermentation in the bottle like champagne) and are required by law to have a minimum of nine months’ bottle ageing following the fermentation. Over 90 percent of Spanish Cava comes from the Penedès region. Generally, white grape varieties dominate here, but the region also offers a host of well-made red wines as you’ll discover from the forward-focused Parés Baltà Estate.

The winery, located in the town of Pacs del Penedès (close to Barcelona), has a long winemaking history, having been founded in 1790 when the first vines were planted on the estate that now surrounds the winery. Today however, more than 230 years later, a lot has changed.

In 1978, Mr Joan Cusiné Hill took over the winery. Born in 1917 in Bellvei del Penedes, Mr Joan Cusiné Hill came from a family of grape growers and, already from the age of seven, he helped his father to cultivate the vineyards and never stopped working. Even into his 90s he was helping his grandsons care for parts of the vineyard.

His son Joan Cusiné Cusiné started to manage Pares Balta in the 1980’s and released its first still white wine, “Blanc de Pacs” which is still produced today. At the end of the 80’s the first red wine from the company was produced.

Then it was time for the next generation to bring more innovation. Since 2000 the winery has been managed by Joan and Josep Cusiné Carol, grandsons of the company founder. However, it was the changes brought about by the women they married, winemakers Maria Elena Jiménez and Marta Casas, that has shot them into the vinous stratosphere. 

Josep’s wife, Marta Casas, and Joan’s wife, Maria Elena Jimenez, both came to winemaking by way of science; Marta had trained as a pharmacist before switching to oenology, and Maria Elena had been a chemical engineer. These two extraordinary women started work at the winery – in 1999 and 2002 respectively – having retrained as oenologists at Tarragona university.

When Marta and Maria Elena arrived at the winery, the family was just doing a few still wines but more focused on volume than quality. They started gradually changing methods of viticulture, winemaking, and blending styles. They made a quiet revolution take hold at Parés Baltà winery. Even though they have brought new and fresh ideas into the company, they have also shown respect for its traditions and protected the estate’s heritage. 

Ultimately, encouraged by the Cusiné family and together with her sister-in-law, Maria Elena, Marta spearheaded a revolution in winemaking practices, prioritizing wines that honoured the unique terroir, aiming for maximum character and identity.

Today, Pares Balta produces a wide range of high quality wines and cavas that has been both nationally and internationally acclaimed. Always keeping quality in view, their aim is to produce some of the best and most representative wines in the world.

Parés Baltà believes that great wines can also convey great emotions. Because of this, the winery strives for an organic, minimal intervention process in order for the grapes to truly present the culture and traditions of the region. In this way, each of their wines is a fascinating, yet importantly, a delicious study in terroir.

At the Parés Baltà Les Torres estate, at the top of the Penedès, they have individuated a unique vineyard site that produces the freshest and sweetest Grenache, a worthy hero for this single varietal wine. Following their estate commitment, this 100% grenache is grown organically and biodynamically. Its resistance to extreme temperatures and its easy adaptation to poor soils make it a perfect variety for making quality wines in the Mediterranean climate. Versatility is another of Garnacha’s strengths, which is why Parés Baltà are fans of it.

On the nose, there’s a range of wild red fruit accompanied by subtle toasted touches due to its brief stay in wood.The importance of the fruit is also evident on the palate, leaving a good trace of its elegance and smoothness. Its personality invites you to taste it and to repeat.

Winemaking – The grapes are harvested by hand and after receiving the grapes in the winery, they are gently pressed and fermented at 20ºC in stainless steel tanks for 2 weeks with 3 daily remuage. Indigena Red is aged in new and second year French oak barrels for little time so as not to add too much wood and to maintain its characteristic fruity touch. 

A 100% White Grenache grown organically and biodynamically, in the highest areas of the Penedès, at an altitude of over 600 metres above sea level.  A single varietal that manages to extract all the expression of the freshness thanks to the altitude where it grows. The winery’s oenologists, Maria Elena, and Marta, carry out a minimum of intervention in the cellar to keep  its full potential and natural qualities intact.

In this vintage of Indigena Blanc, flowers and white fruit are complemented with citrus and creamy notes due to the months long lees contact. A wine with a delicate balance between freshness and vivacity. On the palate there is volume, balance, and it has a long lingering finish.

Winemaking – They harvest the grapes by hand and after receiving the grapes in the winery, they undergo a maceration of 4 hours, the grapes are gently pressed and fermented in a stainless steel vat for 20 days at an average temperature of 16°C. After fermentation, the wine remains in contact with the fine lees from the previous fermentation for approximately 3 months with daily bâtonnage. The wine is aged in new and second year old French oak barrels.

Alongside an emphasis on tradition and quality, the environmentally respectful cultivation of the vines is key to Parés Baltà’s sense of identity.

The vineyards of Parés Baltà span five premium estates, covering 176 hectares of carefully cultivated, low-yielding vines. They are spread out across a wide variety of soils and each experiences a slightly different climate. As the microclimates and soils favour each grape variety differently, it is a complex and challenging task the Parés Baltà team faces to find the environment that gives the vines the best conditions to develop their unique personalities and vinous traits.

This current generation of vintners is turning to old ancestral grape varieties, better adapted to their land and environmental pressures. “We are working with varieties to fight against climate change,” says winemaker Marta, “we realise we have jewels with our ancestral varieties.”

In the hills of Penedés, Parés Baltà’s vineyards sit at altitudes ranging from 170 to almost 800 metres and they are only 10 kilometres from the sea. In the highest vineyards, thermal air currents and considerable diurnal temperature fluctuations allow the grapes to ripen slower and they are often harvested 4-6 weeks later than grapes grown in vineyards at lower altitudes. Vineyards planted on terraces along the Foix river have an entirely different set of conditions, with their own set of challenges and their own distinctive styles of wine.

There is also a significant diversity of soils, including calcareous, clay, and areas with important quantities of marine fossils. The soils of Parés Baltà’s best vineyards are generally poor in quality and have very little organic material but with biodynamic viticulture this has improved. The area with marine fossils is closer to the Mediterranean Sea, and millions of years ago it was under water. This type of soil is characterised by its permeability, and it retains little water. That makes the vines work hard to find water by sending roots deep into the earth, producing small quantities of grapes that are high on flavour, complexity, and concentration.

All of their wines are certified as organic, and all of their vineyards are Demeter certified as Biodynamic. As part of their commitment to improvement, in 2011, the first biodynamic compounds were used on some experimental plots. One year later, the excellent results encouraged them to extend the practice to their entire vineyard holding. Biodynamic farming seeks to provide maximum vitality, self-balance, and harmony to the vineyard. They utilise biodynamic preparations and homeopathic remedies to help convey the influences of the cosmos to the vineyard. Whether you believe in such things or not, it has been shown to result in higher fertility, hardier vines, natural pest control and it is an internationally proven form of agriculture based on biodiversity and astronomy.

The wines at Parés Baltà and Gratavinum are made with minimal intervention. “We are working with very low SO2 levels. We are also doing some wines without any sulphites at all,” says Joan Cusiné Carol. “We believe that drinking wine should be a nice, pleasant experience, and also a healthy one.”

Parés Baltà’s winemaking prowess shines through in its use of a diverse range of grape varietals. As well as making Cava, “we put big energy into our still wines. We like to be innovative and to investigate the research, but at the same time, learn from our ancestors.” For example, the winery vinifies in stainless steel, some barrels and demijohns, but, since 2011, also in clay amphorae.

This isn’t some modern fad they’ve adopted. Cusiné Carol says that in the upper part of one of the vineyards, kilns dating back more than 2,000 years had been found. They were for making amphorae which in Roman times would’ve been used to store and ship wine, oil, and honey.

Working with the clay vessels has opened up new winemaking possibilities. “We realised that, depending on the amphora type and how the clay was cooked, the wines tasted different.” What a happy coincidence to then utilise this newly discovered legacy to reveal another element of their terroir. 

The Gratavinum terroir of organically-farmed terraced vineyards, are rich in Llicorella. This is the Catalan name for a special type of soil in Priorat, which consists mainly of reddish-black slate with small particles of mica quartz, with the different layers of soil being filled in by clayey soil. It is a rock formed over 1000’s of years of compacted sediments providing a distinctive mineral character to the wines of the Priorat region. Undoubtedly the nature of the Llicorella is part of the magic of these wines.

Jordi Fernandez unsurprisingly is enamoured by the singularity of this land, saying “You can taste the unique footprint of Priorat in the wines. Beyond the fruit, there’s minerality – smoke, graphite, wet leaves, and forest floor – the kind of earthy smell you get when it rains in Priorat. Each time I taste my wine, I can taste the terroir.”

The Other Passion Project – Gratavinum 

Whilst studying oenology at Rovira Virgili University in Tarragona, a young Jordi Fernandez became firm friends with fellow students Marta Casas and Maria Elena Jimenez and later, their husbands, brothers Josep and Joan Cusiné of the Parés Baltà winery.

The group of friends bonded over environmental concerns, and wine travel and on an impulse, decided to make wine together in the highly regarded wine region of Priorat. They managed to find adjacent plots of land beyond the village of Gratallops, and today are proud owners of 17 hectares, including some old, terraced vineyards (costers) and the winery which they built from scratch.

Thus, in 2003 Gratavinum the passion project was born. The name comes from the contraction of Gratallops (the village where the winery is located) and Vinum, which means wine in Latin, in homage to the Romans, who introduced the cultivation of vines in the region many centuries ago.

Jordi Fernandez now heads Gratavinum. Meanwhile the other friends-business partners focus on Parés Baltà in the Penedès. Then all five come together to decide on the final blends for Gratavinum which now makes 20,000 bottles of biodynamic wine annually, split over 5 labels.

Coincidentally, the group’s curiosity about biodynamics lingered long after they finished studying oenology, and in 2010 they found themselves attending a workshop by biodynamic certification agency Demeter. The group began preparing to go biodynamic – the Cusines at their winery, Fernandez in Gratavinum. Certified organic in 2003, Gratavinum got its biodynamic certification from Demeter in 2014.

Tasting Note – Aromatic intensity and complexity with explicit presence of preserved red fruit well balanced with the touch of toasty notes from the oak.

On the palate the entry is soft, but it changes showing unpolished ripe tannins together with good volume and acidity. Fruity notes with a mineral character at the end of the mouth. Long and fresh aftertaste.

Winemaking – Pre-cold maceration of 7 days. Alcoholic fermentation for 16 days at a controlled temperature of 25ºC in stainless steel tanks. Ageing 60% for 12 months in new, second and third year French and Hungarian oak barrels of 400l, 20% ageing in clay amphoras for 10 months and 20% in 54l demijohns for 12 months.

Without a doubt, Parés Baltà Winery embodies a harmonious blend of tradition, innovation, and a deep respect for the land. With each sip, their wines transport you on a journey through time and terroir, showcasing the passion and dedication of a winery deeply rooted in its heritage while embracing the possibilities of the future.

Other Parés Baltà wines stocked by Dhall & Nash:

• Materia Prima Orange 2022 [shop online]
• Materia Prima Pet Nat NV [shop  online]
• Parés Baltà Cava NV [shop online]

Finding this distinctive winery feels like a true discovery, or more aptly, a small miracle. The northern region of NZ is better known for sun-soaked white sand beaches and an epic marine playground than for its unheralded wineries. Time for Dhall & Nash to change that and for you all to taste these delectable gems!

We welcome to our D&N portfolio whanau 144 Islands from the Bay of Islands – the spectacular region of 144 islands. We wholeheartedly believe Northland is one of the rising stars of NZ’s wine growing regions. Moreover, Northland winegrowers like proprietor Jake Dromgool of 144 Islands, is much like the vintner pioneers of the past, daring to search for the perfect combination of soil, grape variety, and climate.

Anyone whose been to the Bay of Islands knows what stunning natural beauty abounds with over 144 islands making for an easily accessible aquatic wonderland. Not to mention, the area is rich in history and culture – as many of the pivotal moments in Aotearoa New Zealand’s story happened here, including the signing of Te Tiriti o Waitangi (the Treaty of Waitangi).

This tiny winegrowing region is still turning up gems two centuries after Reverend Samuel Marsden planted the first vines. Northland is not only the oldest, but it is also the warmest growing region in New Zealand, making it uniquely suited to ripening a wide range of grape varieties. Warm spring temperatures, hot summers, and calm, clear autumn days mean fruit ripens early, creating full-bodied, rich, and generous wines.

We all love wines that tell a story – enjoying a compelling, intriguing yarn of the provenance of the wine in our glass. Such as that of 144 Islands and Jake Dromgool. So, this story starts…

Jake’s family has been farming in the hills outside of Kerikeri, overlooking the beautiful Bay of Islands, for generations. In 2014, when he was 22, he took a job in viticulture back in the Northland region, so it was perfect timing to return home.

In an unrelated coincidence, Jake’s family had also just purchased a block of land bordering their own farm, in the middle of which was a block of bush. Exploring this bush one afternoon, Jake & his father were surprised to find a long abandoned garden, with grapevines, not having been pruned in over 70 years, which had reverted to their wild state, growing to the tops of the canopy of Totara trees, and amazingly, they were loaded with delicious fruit.

Obviously, this unexpected discovery prompted Jake & his father to discuss the prospect of planting a vineyard on this site. Both being “men of action”, they put plans into motion fairly quickly, so within a few months they had planted approximately 1ha of vines, of multiple varieties, with the aim of discerning what varietals would be best suited to the site over the course of time.

As the years went by, Jake continued planting more, continuing to experiment, and as the vineyard grew, so too did his passion for wine, his skillset, and his breadth of understanding for what was required to make truly singular fine wines from this special site that has since become their revered Home Block.

Shortly into the hard work of establishing the vineyard, Jake met Melika. Being quite a practical bloke, on their very first date Jake put her to work in the vineyard – what a romantic! But it worked and within a year they had started a family. Since then, they’ve developed the Home Block together, with their 3 young children Remy, Marnie and Coco following close behind.

Over the intervening years, they have found what works well on their sites, and they’ve begun to understand how to craft unique and singular wines which are not only luscious, but also convey a sense of time and place, and reflect their stunning site.

The discerning D&N wine geek palates have been marvelling at the deliciousness and quality of the 144 Islands wines. Dare we say these vinous jewels are somewhat eccentric yet decidedly delightful and pair remarkably well with a broad range of foods. Which brings us to their white wine blends that are the signature of 144 Islands.

European vineyards have produced white wine blends for millennia. It has been an age old practice to collect a variety of grapes from various vineyards, blending them to attain the qualities and consistency the winemaker is looking for. The different grape varietals contribute to make the whole greater than a sum of the parts.

On a practical level in the vineyard, as some varieties flower and ripen at different times, working with more than one grape spreads the risks posed by challenging weather over the growing season and vintage. Many of the new wave of blends we’re now seeing are “field blends”, where instead of varieties being kept separate and blended as finished wines, they are harvested and fermented together. Not only can fermenting varieties as one makes for more harmonious wines, field blends shift the focus from the character of the grape to that of the vineyard, offering fascinating profiles of the places they’re from. Exactly what 144 Islands has set their sights on achieving. There’s a broader palette of flavours, textures and structure which makes it fun for the drinker and the winemaker.

Let’s delve into the luminescent 144 Islands white wine blends: