Cow Horns, moon phases, sheep skulls, stag’s bladders, stinging nettles – stirred this way and that way. Is this wicked witchcraft or what happens when you put Harry Potter in charge of the winemaking? Think again, it’s time to Focus On unravelling the wonderful wacky world of Biodynamics.

As interest in natural, organic, sustainable, and chemical-free living continues to grow, it’s no surprise that wine is part of this global trend. While wine terms like “natural” and “organic” have been popular catch phrases in recent years, there’s one term that still eludes mainstream understanding: biodynamics.
You may have seen it on the occasional wine label or heard someone talking about it at a wine tasting, but chances are you’re still in the dark about what it means. Here we’ll try to decipher the basics of this esoteric-sounding wine philosophy and methodology as well as some nitty-gritty details that hopefully enlighten your next wine purchase.

Admittedly, biodynamics meets with a lot of criticism, largely because many of its most integral practices cannot be explained scientifically. Despite the criticisms though, biodynamics within the wine industry has grown significantly over the last few decades, with many big names adopting the unique philosophy. In NZ the demand for organic, biodynamic, and natural wines is growing rapidly, with organic grape production expanding from 600 hectares in 2008 to 2283 hectares last year, and has increased by 33 per cent since 2017, according to the latest organic market data from Organics Aotearoa. On the international stage, wine writer and biodynamic specialist Monty Waldin estimated that in 2018 almost 5% of all the world’s vineyards were certified either organic or biodynamic.

“Some wines tell us a story… From living soils and pest-resistant vines, to the warmth of the sun and cycles of the moon. Unadulterated aromas from winemakers who do not produce their wine but accompany it. These are wines from biodynamic cultivation. Wines with character.” – Biodynamic Certifier – Demeter International

Broadly speaking, biodynamics is a holistic, ecological, and ethical approach to farming, gardening, food, and nutrition. The task of nailing down a watertight definition of biodynamics is a fraught one though. While there are certain practices in common with organics, biodynamics takes the idea of organic farming to the next level. Now, let’s try to break down the basics behind the buzzword.

In a nutshell, it was Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner who started the idea of biodynamics in the early 1920s, predating the organic movement by a long shot. This early 20th century spiritual philosopher and social reformer also promulgated the use of agricultural practices based on the lunar calendar and astrological influences, which today are the more controversial aspects of biodynamic farming.

Even back then, Steiner believed that the earth was out of balance due to the rapid industrialisation of farming, and that continued mass farming practices would deplete the earth’s ability to create healthy soil to yield healthy crops. His idea was that the land used for growing crops should be treated with preparations made from natural substances (manure, minerals, plants, and herbs) that are either buried or sprayed on the land. The goal was to enrich the soil during growing and composting to keep it healthy and not devoid of nutrients, as can happen in commercial farming.

Following the tenets of Steiner’s anthroposophy, biodynamic agriculture, including viticulture, viewed the farm and vineyard as a self-contained ecosystem (‘bio’, meaning life, and ‘dynamic’, meaning forces, energy) that can achieve both physical and spiritual harmony between the farmer, vine, soil, and yes, the cosmos!

“Farming biodynamically involves a changed philosophy or worldview, on which agricultural practice is then built. It’s largely caught, not taught.” – Dr. Jamie Goode, Wine Anorak

Between the two World Wars, there began a heavy reliance on ‘industrial intervention’ in farming practices to increase productivity. It was all about quantity not quality. Instead, over time this was killing the soils. Something had to change as was discovered in the late 80’s by French microbiologist Claude Bourguignon who had declared many of the famed Burgundy vineyard soils completely dead on a microbial level, due to decades of synthetic fertiliser, pesticide and herbicide usage. Meanwhile, the few biodynamic viticulturalists who did not use any of these, microbial life was thriving in their vineyards compared to the microbial deserts of their neighbours. He did not claim to have a scientific explanation, but the differences were clearly visible. This was a significant turning point for many disbelievers of the potential of biodynamic viticulture.

“Living wines need living soils. The soil is the “treasure chest” of every Demeter biodynamic vineyard.” – Demeter website

For biodynamic certification, there are indeed very rigorous specifications to adhere to. The body that governs certification is Demeter International which was founded in Germany in 1928 right at the dawn of biodynamic agriculture and became the first eco-label for organically grown foods. There’s also France-based Biodyvin, which certifies over 160 European wineries – but it is not involved in food certification.

However, in February 2020, Demeter International and the International Biodynamic Association (IBDA) joined forces to form the Biodynamic Federation Demeter International. This new international umbrella organisation unites all Biodynamic and Demeter organisations worldwide. By the way, if you want to make sure your wine is biodynamic, it must have one of these certifications on the label:

One should keep in mind that the certification process for organic and biodynamic wines can be lengthy, costly, and complex. As a result, some wineries skip certification entirely but still claim to pursue biodynamic or organic growing and vinification processes. It’s always valuable to get the winery’s philosophy and back story from the restaurant Sommelier or trusted wine retailer.

“Demeter [biodynamic] vintners do not produce wine, they accompany it. In this way, the spectrum of aromas that stem from location and vintage, can unfold to develop its authentic character.” – Demeter website

Also known as the planting calendar, originally developed by Maria Thunn, this biodynamic calendar follows the moon phases through the zodiac to help winegrowers determine the best times for planting, watering, harvesting, and resting. Is that barmy? Not really, as it was something farmers have done for tens of millennia up until the agrochemical boom of the 1920s.

So, in the calendar, each day also coincides with one of the four elements of nature — earth, water, fire, and air.

Root Days: These “earth” days are best for planting, replanting, and pruning
Leaf Days: These “water” days are ideal for watering crops
Fruit Days: These “fire” days are for harvesting grapes
Flower Days: These “air” days are when to leave the vineyard alone

Curiously enough, the biodynamic lunar calendar isn’t just a guide for tending the vineyard – you can even use it to determine the best days for drinking wine! So, before opening that special bottle of vino, you might want to find out if you should wait for a full moon, crescent moon, or once in a blue moon. There are even different apps you can buy to track the cycles (e.g., ‘When Wine’ or ‘Bio Garden’).

Though not necessarily appetising reading, let’s take a look at a few of the different techniques utilized in the biodynamic vineyard.

Biodynamic farming uses 9 preparations, numbered from 500-508 to prepare and fertilize the land used for farming. These are completely natural and rely on principles developed by Steiner to create balance between the physical and spiritual world.

They use two types of preparations: those for fertilizing and those for composting. They require combinations of natural substances (manure, herbs and flowers, minerals) and organic materials (cow horns, bladders, skulls) to be buried in the land or sprayed onto compost to help keep nutrients in the earth. Sprays are stirred (‘dynamized’) to create opposite vortexes (clockwise and counter-clockwise) to achieve balance. Here are a couple to show how it’s done:

Preparation 500 – Cow horns are stuffed with manure compost and buried into the ground all through the winter, then later excavated. Upon excavation, the stuffed material is spread throughout the vineyard. There is little information out there about why specifically a cow horn is used (never a bull’s horn), or why it’s buried in the soil. Preparation 500 is “essential”. “It is a powerful means for structuring the soil,” the Demeter site explains. It also “stimulates microbial activity of the soil”, regulates pH, stimulates seed germination, and dissolves minerals. Other compost preparations include yarrow, chamomile, and stinging nettles.

Function: Promotes root activity and stimulates microbiotic life in the soil.

Preparation 502 – Yarrow, a sweet-smelling, herbal plant, is sheathed inside a stag’s bladder, which is hung in the warm summer sun. It is buried throughout the winter and dug up the following spring. The bladder is then discarded, but its contents are used as compost.

Function: Helps control the breakdown of the manures and compost, helping to make trace elements more available to the plant. Important for reproduction and growth.

Preparation 505 – This one tops them all! The bark of an oak tree is grated into a powder in Autumn and placed into the skull of a sheep or cow. Don’t worry, it is essential that the skull is very clean. The skull is stored in a barrel filled with running water and rotted vegetation for a period of six months, during which time the oak bark goes through the process of fermentation. By the time this phase is complete, the skull will no longer be very “clean”. Also, unsurprisingly, it may smell a bit! Luckily, fourteen days of stirring the preparation will result in an inoffensive, sweet aroma.

Function: Works strongly with calcium, helps to combat plant diseases (especially fungus), and controls rampant growth.

The others are based variously on – quartz ground to a powder (501), chamomile (503), nettles (504), dandelion (506), valerian (507) and horsetail plant (508), with casuarina as the southern hemisphere alternative.

If you’re feeling skeptical (and queasy) at this point, you’re probably not alone. But before writing off biodynamics, keep reading – and then do some tasting!

“[in biodynamics there is] the emphasis on soil health, as in organics, which is surely sensible.” – Jancis Robinson, MW & wine critic

Both styles prevent the use of synthetic herbicide, fungicides, and pesticides in the vineyard. However, that’s where the similarities end. In organic wine production, there are a number of additives permitted, added sulphites and extra yeast compounds winemakers can use in the wine.
European regulations stipulate that organic dry red wine can have up to 100 milligrams of sulphites per litre and organic dry white or rosé wine can have up to 150 milligrams. Organic wine can also have extra yeast, sugar and tartaric acid added to it when fermenting, to help manipulate the outcome or taste profile of the wine. And there are some distinctions within organic wine labelling – those labelled “made with organic grapes” can include added sulphites but wines that are “certified organic” cannot.

Looking at this you might think we’re saying organic wine isn’t that great. Quite the contrary. Organic wine has considerably less preservatives and added extras than conventional wines.

Meanwhile, biodynamics is the agricultural system that’s effectively a supercharged version of organics, with some extra ‘stuff’ thrown in. It means that winemakers can’t add any synthetic agents in the grape growing process but also states that in the winemaking process, they can’t add foreign agents like extra yeast or acid. This ensures that the wine is a true representation of the vineyard. So, you could say, if a wine is biodynamic, it is organic; but if a wine is organic, it is not necessarily biodynamic.

When comparing biodynamic wine to natural wine, you can simply look at the label to determine if a wine is verified as biodynamic, but there is no such international certification for natural wine. In France in late 2020 they established an organisation called ‘Vin Méthode Nature’ to regulate the natural wineries.

Generally, the assertion is that “natural” indicates nothing artificial or synthetic has been added, but there is no legal definition for labelling the wine outside of France. It is the foundation tenet of natural wine that it is made with the bare minimum of intervention both in the field and in the cellar. Ideally, the grapes are organic (but not necessarily so) and hand-harvested, the wine is allowed to spontaneously ferment using indigenous yeasts, no sterile filtering or fining processes are used and only the tiniest amount of sulphur dioxide is occasionally added at bottling. It is quite a loose, unregulated set of guidelines for natural wines compared to biodynamic wines. As such, beware that winemakers are on an ‘honour system’ when it comes to labelling natural wine, so only buy brands you trust or have been recommended.

Just to be clear – wine without sulphites doesn’t exist since these compounds are a natural by-product of the fermentation process. The main concern is whether or not sulphites are naturally occurring or chemically created. Sulphites aren’t altogether bad. They can preserve a wine’s shelf life, colour, taste, and freshness. These compounds are measured in parts per million (ppm). Here’s the breakdown:

Conventional wine: Up to 350 ppm
“Made with organic grapes” wine: Up to 100 ppm
Biodynamic wine: Up to 100 ppm
Certified organic wine: Up to 10 ppm (in other words, only naturally occurring sulphites)

While there’s a common assumption that sulphites are to blame for everything from headaches to hangovers, studies show that tannins and level of alcohol are much more likely to cause unwanted reactions. And don’t forget that unlike organic or biodynamic producers, commercial winemakers use dozens of undisclosed ingredients that could cause side effects. Drinkers beware!

These wines are not vegan because they use organic materials derived from animals in the process of making them. If you eat a vegan diet rather than adhere to a vegan lifestyle, biodynamic wines would work for you since there are no animal products or derivatives in the wines themselves. But if you adhere to a completely vegan lifestyle (i.e., you do not wear leather, etc.) biodynamic wines are not considered vegan.

Some sceptics see the philosophical aspects (like utilizing the lunar cycle) as pseudo-science. Others see the buzzword as another wellness trend. “Whether you believe in the philosophy or not,” says Master of Wine Vanessa Conlin, “biodynamic farming shows a commitment from the grower, farmer, and vintner that they’re investing in their land in a way that’s respectful of nature and of everything around them.”

Although practicing sustainability is beneficial for the land and its surroundings, there isn’t a ton of hard data to prove that strict biodynamic farming is more beneficial than other types of sustainable farming, or that the wine itself is healthier for the drinker. But just being aware of where the wine you’re drinking comes from can be beneficial in many ways. Trying to avoid ingesting pesticides? Opt for a biodynamic wine. Looking to support a vineyard that practices ecological sustainability? Buying a biodynamic bottle is a great way to do that.

“I have often found extra vitality in wines that turned out to be biodynamic.” – Jancis Robinson MW

Yes and no! Though biodynamic winemakers seek to make vibrant, pure wines that are indicative of where they come from, there isn’t a specific tasting note that would indicate a wine is biodynamic or not.

Biodynamic farming doesn’t ensure that the finished wine will taste better or different, but you can make a presumption that if they’re spending that much time investing in their vineyard, then they care about what’s going into the bottle.

Many winemakers sincerely believe that biodynamics offers them an ability for a true and pure expression of grapes and ultimately the wine, and they can do so without relying on a variety of pesticides, fungicides, and herbicides etc. that can obscure the clarity of the product and where it’s coming from.

There are, however, many highly acclaimed biodynamic wineries throughout the world that add empirical evidence in favour of biodynamics, making a difference to the quality in the glass. As the old saying goes, the “proof of the pudding is in the eating”.

Worldwide there are over 700 biodynamic certified wineries. Wine geeks will instantly recognize the de la Romanée-Conti name since it is considered Burgundy’s most acclaimed and famous estate and it’s all biodynamically farmed! Other prestigious biodynamic estates are Domaine Leroy of Burgundy, Larmandier-Bernier in Champagne, Rhone’s Maison Chapoutier, first growth Château Latour, Château Palmer and Pontet-Canet of Bordeaux, Nicolas Joly of the Loire, Cullen, Henschke, Yangara in Australia, NZ’s Felton Road, Rippon, Quartz Reef, Seresin, Millton, Pyramid Valley and many more.

On the basis of the experience of those who have been practicing biodynamic viticulture over decades, all are convinced that vines find harmony and the ability to withstand disease and extreme weather which is highly advantageous in these times of climate change.

While biodynamic wine generally may not taste any different than other wines, some say that it offers the truest expression of terroir because of the extreme thoughtfulness and painstaking methods taken on the journey from grape to glass. So, give it a try. At the very least you’ll have a good story to tell.

In these times of drastic meteorological chaos and change, we all seek to be a little bit “greener”. We buy organic produce, shop with reusable bags, and recycle just a bit more than we used to. With sustainability and natural movements front and centre in our minds, the conscientious practices of biodynamic wine-growing seems to feel ‘right’ for many of us. Perhaps now more than ever, it could be timely to seek out those ‘wacky’ biodynamic wines and raise a toast to the moon, stars, and your Biodynamic Winemaker!

“Terroir is to wine what the score is to music.” – Pierre Larmandier, Champagne Larmandier-Bernier, Certified Biodynamic since 2004

NV Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs ‘Latitude’:

“Based on the 2016 vintage and disgorged in December 2018, bursts with a generous bouquet of yellow orchard fruit, peach, blanched almonds and white flowers that’s less citrusy and stony than the corresponding Longitude. Full-bodied, broad and textural on the palate, it’s fleshy and enveloping, with ripe but racy acids and a muscular core of fruit, concluding with an expansive finish.” 91/100 points, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate (Biodynamic)

2018 Domaine Rene Muré Pierres Sèches Pinot Gris:

“Pure and bold notes of freshly cut russet-pear peel fill the nose on this wine. The palate adds flowing pear juiciness and concentration. Bold fruitiness is held in check by pithy, not quite zesty freshness. This wine has drive and energy, with a just off-dry finish.” 91/100 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Wine Enthusiast (Organic and Biodynamic)

2019 La Stoppa Trebbiolo Rosso:

Wild, earthy, yeastiness on the nose, incongruously like fresh vanilla pod with its earthy sweet-leathery notes. Aromas of small berries, blackberries, myrtle. Dryish on palate, which is meaty, earthy, spicy, sweet earth, lardo, and refreshing acidity. Youthful and purple and vibrant. Cries out for a big plate of charcuterie and cheese and some top class air-dried hams. Barbera 60% Bonarda 40%. (Organic certified & following some biodynamic practises)

2019 Alphonse Mellot Sancerre La Moussiere Blanc:

“Grown on the famed Kimmeridgian chalk of Sancerre, this wine is intense, tightly wound with young fruits and acidity. With its power, dense green-fruit flavours and steely edge, the wine is set for aging.” 93/100 points, Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast (Organic and Biodynamic)

More of the wonderful biodynamic producers in our portfolio:

Causses Marines
Chateau Climens
Cristom
Domaine des Pothiers
Domaine Morey-Coffinet
Georges Laval
Grosset
Hyde de Villaine

Riesling, for some unknown reason, is the “Cinderella” of the white wine world. Going unnoticed and unloved by the greater public as they clamour for more savvy and more chardy. Yet, it is almost universally adored by winemakers and wine geeks the world over. Riesling has been responsible for life-changing epiphanies for so many in the wine community. So how does a seemingly vapid “sweet” white wine capture the hearts and minds of serious wine enthusiasts?

Here at D&N we know that, deep down, Riesling wants to become fashionable and sophisticated in the eyes of non-wine-geeks so we’re being the Fairy Godmother for Cinderella Riesling by doing our first “Focus On” blog about the wine we geeks adore!

Riesling isn’t simply loved, it’s worshipped.

To know riesling is to love riesling.

At its best, Riesling is a wine of extremes. It is a charismatic chameleon that has so much more to offer than just sweetness. Like Semillon, Riesling can produce impeccable, long-lived wines with intense aromatic qualities that range in style from bone dry to lushly sweet dessert wines. Unlike many other white wines, Riesling can be high in fruit with refreshing acidity and low alcohol to balance it all to sublime vinous perfection.

Renowned wine critic Jancis Robinson calls it one of her “great wine heroes” and says, “This is the wine to drink while writing or reading; it refreshes the palate and sharpens the brain.”

Here are four great reasons to love Riesling:

Possibly the greatest facet of Riesling is its ability to express site-specific characteristics from the vineyard or region it is grown in – it’s probably better at this than any other grape variety. For example, where Rieslings are made in exactly the same way by the same producer from two vineyards with different soils or aspects they will usually show corresponding differences in flavour profile.

Riesling shows an amazing capacity to age. Even relatively inexpensive Kabinett and Spatlese wines from Germany develop gracefully for many years. So as a white wine with usually no oak barrels or tannins in sight, it is thanks to Riesling’s high level of acidity, that acts as a natural preservative of the wine that enables it to age gracefully over time. The best Rieslings have been known to cellar for decades or longer. Over time, a Riesling will often darken in colour from a pale straw to a more golden hue. The original fruit forward flavours will soften and be replaced by more subtle and complex characters and aromas. Often an aged Riesling will have a distinctive petrol note to it, some consider this a flaw but many more treasure it as a sign of maturity (more on this later).

Riesling can be made in an astonishing variety of styles. That’s what makes it so great; there is a style of Riesling for every palate. One characteristic uniting all Riesling is the grape’s super high acidity. Beyond that, Riesling can be light or full, dry or sweet, delicate or powerful, with wonderful flavours and with subtle textures. This easy-to-love white wine pairs well with a range of foods, offering a nice counterpoint to spicy food. Riesling also has a low-to-average amount of alcohol, depending on the style.

Great examples of Riesling are never going to be cheap. But compare the prices for the best Rieslings with the current prices of other fine wines, and they are remarkably affordable, no doubt because of their (unexplainable) relative “unpopularity”.

At D&N one of our favourite aspects of Riesling is the wide stylistic range of wines that can be produced and enjoyed for different reasons. From complex, dry, age-worthy bottles to the sumptuous exotics of dessert wines. That makes it darn difficult to select our Riesling faves when we have over 20 in our portfolio. So, we put the pressure on our own Brandon Nash to make the big 6 selection!

2013 Foxes Island Belsham Awatere Estate Dry Riesling

Foxes Island is one of the only New Zealand wineries who cellar age their wines, patiently waiting for the transformation of flavours, complexity and structure to develop in bottle before releasing to market. This dry Riesling is a perfect example of this ambitious and talented Estate run by John Belsham, and is utterly delicious.

2013 Mountford Estate Liaison Riesling

Mountford Estate are famous for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, yet their Liaison Riesling is one of our top selling wines in the Dhall & Nash portfolio. A perfect balance of ripeness, sweetness, and acidity with bottle aged complexity.

2013 Domaine Rene Muré Clos St Landelin Riesling

A famous plot in the Grand Cru vineyard of Vorbourg in southern Alsace from the great Domain Rene Muré – an opulent and powerful style, showing richness, size and dimension on the palate.

2019 Schloss Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Trocken GG

One of the finest Estates in the Mosel, Schloss Lieser produce an array of Riesling styles from dry to sweet. This wine is their flagship Grosses Gewachs and an icon in Germany. Simply put, the best dry Riesling from the best vineyard in the Mosel.

2019 Schloss Lieser Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel

The pinnacle of sweet Riesling from the famous blue slate Sonnenuhr vineyard in Wehlen in the Mosel. If you think you are not sure what minerality is, you will know once you taste this wine.

2019 Schloss Lieser Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling GG

Schloss Lieser is one of the few privileged owners of land in this precious part of the Mosel, a famous south to south west facing slope of blue slate soil. Small bunches of Riesling grapes are left to ripen on the vine late into harvest and then naturally fermented to bone dry on fine lees for almost a year before bottling. The result, a stunning, powerful and radiant expression of Dry Riesling that nowhere else on earth can produce.

The history of Riesling is murky, but ampelography research points to the Rhine River region in Germany/Alsace as the birthplace of Riesling. The grape is a natural derivative of Gouais Blanc, an esoteric French grape that is grandmother to many of today’s most well-known wines, including Chardonnay, Riesling, Petit Verdot, Chenin Blanc, and Muscadelle. The first recorded mention of Riesling appeared in the 1435 sale of several Riesling vines to a German Count. Green grapes in general, and Riesling in particular, grew steadily in popularity until 1787, when the Archbishop of Trier ordered that all bad vines be replaced with Riesling varietals. By the 1850s, Riesling had become a fashionable and sought-after wine, commanding higher prices than Bordeaux and Champagne. This continued into the early 20th century where German Rieslings were particularly highly prized and equally highly priced. So why have modern day consumers neglected to embrace this vinous darling of wine nerds? 

“Great Riesling is like a very large orchestra playing very quietly.” – Helmut Dönnhoff, Superstar German Winemaker

The elephant in the Riesling room is sweetness. In the 60’s and 70’s the name Riesling was applied to a wide range of white grape varieties of dubious quality that were often sold in bulk ‘chateau cardboard’ packaging. This was the ultimate ‘backhanded compliment’ given to Cinderella Riesling! Yes, many Rieslings are sweet, both at the high and low ends of the market, and by no means is that a bad thing. At its best, Riesling displays racy minerality, rich texture, complex fruit, and – of course – sweetness. Sadly, this often leads to a wine being dismissed entirely and without good reason. It is not the sweetness that’s the problem, it’s the balance! And Riesling’s double delights are its intense perfume and its piercing crisp acidity which offset the cloying effect of residual sugar in well-crafted wines.

Additionally, sugar in wine contributes to longevity in the cellar, so it’s no coincidence that some of the most expensive, age worthy Riesling is sweet. Sweet, late-harvest styles like Spätlese, Auslese, and Eiswein can only be made from the most select grapes which can withstand the extra ripening time without attracting bad rot. Then, due to the evaporation of water as the grape shrivels (and freezes in the case of Eiswein), the grapes yield less juice, thus adding to their rarity and value. Many a Mosel kabinett has residual sugar, but in conjunction with typically high levels of acid, the experience is tempered into a dynamic sweet-and-sour wine.

While historically associated with Germany, Riesling’s receptivity to a range of cooler growing conditions and even poor soils has made it a natural choice for international plantings. Germany’s Mosel, Rheingau, Rheinhessen, and Pfalz regions are the traditional Riesling heartland, but diverse styles also prevail in Alsace, France, and Austria in the Old World. Whilst in the New World, Australia’s Clare and Eden Valleys as well as California, Washington State, and New York State also grow a considerable amount of top-quality Riesling.

Maybe it is thanks to the New World that Riesling is starting to enjoy the sparks of a renaissance. In Australia, the grape has developed a formidable reputation, delivering lime-sherbet fireworks amid the continental climate of Clare Valley, north of Adelaide, while Barossa’s Eden Valley is cooler still, producing restrained stony, lime examples from the elevated granitic landscape; Tasmania is fast becoming their third Riesling terroir, combining cool temperatures with high UV levels to deliver stunning styles.

Here in New Zealand Riesling is perfectly suited to Central Otago, with its granitic soils and continental climate, also to North Canterbury, Marlborough, and the pebbly Brightwater area near Nelson. Although there are no fixed stylistic formulae for Riesling in New Zealand, this is far from being a bad thing. Here we are blessed in having the potential to produce a broad range of Riesling styles. It’s a bit like having all the producing regions of Germany, France, and Australia under one sky.

“Time and again, New Zealand Riesling proved to be an amazingly consistent, pure and refreshing expression of a great grape, irrespective of producer.” – James Laube, Wine Spectator

In Karen MacNeil’s “Wine Bible” she aptly writes, “On the palate, Riesling is meant to move — to shimmer; to surge, to burst, to dance, to arc, to soar. Riesling has a rare trait – velocity. Of all varietals, it is the most kinetic and alive.”

Without doubt, wherever Riesling wine is produced, it is known for its powerful, rapier-like aromas and distinctive flavours. Variously described as flowery, delicate, racy, pure, limey, pithy, steely, nervy, invigorating, zesty, tangy, electric, lively, crisp, incisive, focused, ethereal, minerally, crystalline, stony, honeyed, waxy, sherbet, sweet-sour, tense, tongue-tingling, and much more!

Riesling is all about tension and balance. Walking a tightrope of fruit sweetness and acidity, Riesling can be made as a rich, fruit-filled style with residual sugar, or with a crisp, nervy nature that jumps about on the palate. Further taste and texture interest is provided from the mineral elements which are usually a reflection of the terroir. Meanwhile, the Riesling olfactory calling card is the infamous wafts of petroleum or kerosene that can sometimes be detected. This is produced by a natural chemical compound called TDN (we’ll get into this a bit later in geek talk).

Fitting wine with food or occasion can become an overthought or even a laboured subject for some wine drinkers. This is where Riesling comes in. So, why will Riesling do the job on just about anything you throw at it? Firstly, the acidity adds freshness and makes your mouth water – perfect when you’re about to eat. Secondly, little to no oak to overpower more delicate dishes. Thirdly, the varying levels of sweetness – from bone dry to super sweet make it the most versatile grape around to match with numerous dishes, desserts, or cheeses!

In some Riesling wines there is a striking ‘petrol’ or ‘kerosene’ note. While an integral part of the aroma profile of mature Riesling and sought after by many experienced drinkers, it may be off-putting to those unaccustomed to it, and those who primarily seek young and fruity aromas in their wine.

This distinct ‘petrol’ type aroma is caused by the compound 1,1,6-trimethyl-1,2-dihydronaphthalene or ‘TDN’ for short. If the wine has high acidity, levels of TDN are more likely to increase over time. Also, interestingly, corks absorb much of the TDN, so a screw cap Riesling will often show much more of this trait upon opening.

Various studies have determined that there are some factors that are likely to increase the TDN potential in Rieslings. These could be: ripe grapes, i.e., low yields and late harvest; high sun exposure; water stress, which is most likely in regions which do not practice irrigation, and high acid content. These factors are usually also considered to contribute to high quality Riesling wines, so the petrol note is in fact more likely to develop in top wines than in simpler wines made from high-yielding vineyards, especially those from the New World, where irrigation is common.

Kabinett: Grapes picked during normal harvest, yielding a light bodied, low alcohol wine that’s normally dry or off-dry.

Spätlese: Means “late harvest”. Fully ripe grapes bring more fruit intensity and a fuller body. These wines can be dry or off-dry, and the subtle sweetness is often offset by the sharp acidity.

Auslese: Means “select harvest”. Made in the best years from carefully chosen fully ripe grapes. These wines are lush and fairly sweet.

Beerenauslese: Literally translated means “berry selected harvest”, this wine is made from very ripe hand-harvested grapes affected by noble rot, and only in great vintages. Very sweet.

Trockenbeerenauslese: The richest, sweetest, most expensive of all German wines. Only made in exceptional years.

Eiswein: Literally “ice wine” and made from frozen grapes. They are crushed, and the ice separated from the juice, resulting in a very sweet, highly acidic dessert wine.

Grosses Gewächs or GG: The term GG is used to identify some of the finest white wines of Germany and is specific to dry (Trocken) wines. All the Grosses Gewächs wines come from a Grosses Lage (‘great site’), that is, from the best vineyard sites.

Producers that make wines with a GG distinction must be one of the 200 members of the Verband Deutscher Pradikatsweinguter, or VDP. It may sound like some sort of secret organisation, but the VDP is a German wine group representing the country’s top producers. They have an uncompromising dedication to high quality wines and as such, they produce a disproportionately large proportion of Germany’s top wines. Like the grand crus of Burgundy, these wines take the name of the vineyard and not the village. Unlike their French counterparts, the term does not exist within any part of German wine law. The GG wines can be recognised by a stylized symbol of an eagle and grapes that adorns all VDP members’ bottles.

Further, the VDP created a four-level vineyard classification system that closely resembles that of Burgundy: Grosses Lage = Grand Cru, Erste Lage = Premier Cru, Ortswein = Village Wine, Gutswein = Basic wine from a lower quality vineyard.

To make the GG grade, yields must not exceed 50 hectolitres per hectare, and the grapes must be physiologically, fully ripe, and be hand harvested. These wines are released on the 1st September of the year after harvest. Vinification must be done in the traditional way. In short, stringent rules to protect Germany’s wine culture and reputation.

Enough of the geek talk. More importantly, have we converted you to worship at the Chapel of Riesling? Hopefully by now we have dispelled the old assumption that all sweet Riesling wines are naff and unsophisticated. Riesling can be as gastronomic or as laid back as you like, representing some of the best values and the most rarefied cellar choices on the market.

In the wake of all our years of Riesling devotion, we can’t help but toast to the delicious complexity and multiplicity of Riesling. There is something undeniably appealing about its ability to hold counterpoints harmoniously in a single glass: of sweetness alongside tartness, of stony minerals mingling delectably with flowers and fruit. It offers delightful surprises even to the most seasoned veterans and ages gracefully for decades. Given this magical mojo, how could you not be at least a little bit better for the sipping of it?

Time for Cinderella Riesling to re-claim her crown.

Here below is the full Dhall & Nash range of Rieslings from around the world:

2013 Domaine Rene Muré Clos Saint Landelin Riesling
2016 Domaine Rene Muré Calcaires Jaunes Riesling
2018 Domaine Rene Muré Calcaires Jaunes Riesling
2018 Schloss Lieser Riesling Feinherb
2019 Schloss Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Spatlese
2019 Schloss Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Trocken GG
2019 Schloss Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Trocken GG 375ml
2019 Schloss Lieser Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Lange Goldkapsel 375ml
2019 Schloss Lieser Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling GG
2019 Schloss Lieser Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling GG 1.5L
2016 Fritz Ekkehard Huff Schwabsburger Riesling
2013 Foxes Island Belsham Awatere Estate Dry Riesling
2015 Foxes Island Icon Series Noble Riesling 375ml
2018 FOX by John Belsham Ma Chérie Late Harvest Riesling
2013 Mountford Estate Liaison Riesling
2018 Aurum Dry Riesling
2019 Aurum Dry Riesling
2019 Hawkshead Riesling
2019 Johner Estate Wairarapa Riesling
2020 Johner Estate Wairarapa Riesling Light
2014 Kalex Riesling
2017 Grosset Springvale Riesling
2016 Norman Hardie Niagara Riesling
NV Barefoot Riesling

Tucked away in a corner along the eastern border of France, sits the stunningly beautiful wine region of Alsace. Through history Alsace has often been the chess pawn as spoils of war by the feuding countries of Germany and France. Hence, this history has shaped not just the accents and architecture of the region but also their wines. Alsace is truly a wine-lover’s paradise as these wines tell a story: they demonstrate their heritage and also brilliantly communicate the terroir they come from. As this month’s Dhall and Nash Wondermaker Domaine Muré so perfectly encapsulates – get ready to be enchanted by their aromatic spell!

And what a history the Muré family has! It was established by Michel Muré in 1650 in Westhalten, South Alsace. Obviously, when Michel first planted his vineyard, he surely had little idea of the vinous adventure that he was setting in motion for his descendants. Over the centuries their vineyards have come to encompass several Grand Cru in Zinnkoepfle and their crown jewel of Clos Saint Landelin within the Grand Cru of Vorbourg. These areas have been regularly described as the best of Alsace Grand Cru since the 7th Century. And Domaine Muré itself has enjoyed similar acclaim as one of the best wineries in Alsace since the 17th Century. 

It was in 1935 that the next generation headed by Alfred Muré further extended the property with the addition of the 12 hectare (25 acre) monopole (wholly owned) Clos Saint Landelin, foreseeing already its potential for exceptional quality. He replanted the terraces, ideally situated with their sunny exposure and shelter from the rain. Then in 1966, brothers Oscar and Armand Muré moved the family winery site from Westhalten to Rouffach.

Nowadays, it is Alfred’s grandson René Muré, (the 11th generation) who took over the domaine in 1976 and who continues to be involved, offering advice and much valued help to Alfred’s great grandchildren Véronique and Thomas, the 12th generation of the family, who are now responsible for running this exceptional monopole vineyard and its neighbouring terroirs. 

The young guard is now Thomas Muré who studied viticulture and oenology in Beaujolais. He divides his time between the cellar and the domaine’s 25 hectares (62 acres) of vines, whilst Veronique did a degree in agronomy. She is responsible for the commercial and administrative side of the domaine. The grand family traditions continue…

“I found that at Muré the terroir really shines through” – Antonio Galloni, Vinous

This is a winery that has meticulous attention to detail and an historic commitment to quality. Such traditions meant that it was a no-brainer for the estate’s 28 hectares (70 acres) to become both biodynamic (Demeter) and organic (Ecocert) certified, demonstrating that no chemical or synthetic products are used.

Most of us know about organics, but less so about biodynamics – here’s a quick overview on biodynamic farming. It was started by Austrian philosopher, Rudolf Steiner, in the 1920s. Worldwide, it has become the catch call for numerous top-quality winemakers and producers. Biodynamic wine production uses organic farming methods (for example, natural compost as fertilizer and avoiding chemical pesticides, fungicides, herbicides, etc.) while also employing natural soil supplements prepared according to Steiner’s formulas. Further, they follow a planting and harvesting calendar that depends upon astrological and lunar cycles – in short, they are ecologically self-sufficient in which they treat their vineyard as a living and interconnected ecosystem.

Domaine Murés total production is not vast but it is still considered sizeable for the Alsace region. The 70 acres of family estates have been farmed organically since 1999, with priority given to hand tilling and to dense planting (about 10,000 plants per hectare or 2.5 acres), which encourages the vines to put down deep roots and stimulates biological activity in the soil.

Thanks to their deep roots, the vines absorb precious mineral elements from the subsoil. These bear the unique imprint of the terroir and contribute to the pronounced minerality of the Muré estate wines. Additionally, these vines are low yielding (from 30-45 hl/ha), which is another contributory factor in allowing the grapes to confer on the wine the true expression of their terroir. Harvesting is done entirely by hand and grapes are manually sorted in the vineyard. They are then transported in crates no bigger than 20kg capacity to avoid squashing. The whole bunches are then tipped gently (without crushing or destemming) into the press.

This extra care in applying biodynamic practices throughout the vineyards contributes to healthy, well aerated soils, quality fruit, as well as to increased flora and fauna and the general well-being of the vines. All resulting in remarkable harmony and balance which characterises the wines of Rene Muré.

Unlike the rest of France, Alsace wines have the grape variety on the label – but do not be misled that this means the wines are “simple”. On the contrary, they are wines that have the definitive “signature” of each unique terroir from Alsace. And undoubtedly, the Domaine Muré wines clearly show typicity, terroir and elegance whose flavours fan out into a complex peacock’s tail of subtlety.

The Domaine Muré range of wines is made up of two distinct categories – one is the very accessible varietals of the Côte-de-Rouffach (communal appellation) and the Signature ranges. The other is the extraordinary Grand Cru varietals of their monopole Clos Saint Landelin (within the Vorbourg Grand Cru) and Grand Cru Zinnkoepfle.

The Signature range is a return to the traditional dry and delicately fruity wines with steely acidity. They are wines typified by their freshness and varietal characteristics and are exceptional value. Ideally, these are consumed whilst young and lively.

With this luscious style in mind, 2019 will be the first vintage that Dhall and Nash has collaborated with Domaine Muré who are providing their exquisite Alsace fruit for our very own Bohemian Gewürztraminer label. What a coup!

Now, onto their much-lauded Grand Cru sites: The Clos St Landelin Grand Cru is one of the great viticultural sites for the expressiveness and exotic power it imparts to Alsace’s noble varieties. This monopole of the Domaine produces grapes which are concentrated and rich with exquisitely honed mineral acidity.

The Domaine wines that are labelled Clos Saint Landelin are produced from the estate vineyards in the Grand Cru Vorbourg. Among the Domaine wines there is an impressively steely Sylvaner from the Clos which is full of ripe, green fruits and minerals, and is one of the finest examples in the region. 

Intense, long-lived Riesling comes from Vorbourg and Clos Saint Landelin, as does rich, spicy and opulent Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris coming from Lutzeltal as well as the Clos.

Depending on the year, Clos Saint Landelin also produces top-quality Vendanges Tardives (late harvest) and Sélection de Grains Nobles (botrytis-affected) wines.

Along with Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Tokay Pinot Gris, Clos Saint Landelin is favoured by the regular occurrence of noble rot due to the proximity to the tiny Ohmbach river immediately below the Clos. The river creates a moist environment in which autumn mists develop – favouring the development of Botrytis Cinerea, the all-important noble rot essential to the production of top-level sweet wines. Elegant and complex, the wines from this outstanding vineyard develop fine fruit aromas and are extremely long-lived!

See the full Domaine Muré range that we carry below:

Domaine Muré Clos Saint Landelin Riesling
Domaine Muré Calcaires Jaunes Riesling
Domaine Muré Orchidées Sauvages Gewurztraminer
Domaine Muré Les Iris Pinot Blanc
Domaine Muré Pierres Sèches Pinot Gris
Domaine Mure V Pinot Noir
Domaine Muré Crémant d’Alsace Brut NV

“We have to stay in contact with the climate and the terroir.” – René Muré

Situated at the warmer southern end of the Alsace wine-growing region (10 miles south of the town of Colmar), the Rouffach vineyards and their environs have been famous since Roman times.

The Vosges ranges protect this subregion from rain and snow-bearing west winds, resulting in an exceptionally sunny, dry climate – with just 500mm (20 inches) of rain, amazingly, the annual precipitation rate is less than that of Nice and half that of neighbouring German wine regions.

To this can be added the richness of the clay-limestone soils and calcareous sandstone subsoils, which are equally suited to each of the seven different permitted Alsace grape varieties: Riesling, Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Muscat, Sylvaner and Pinot Blanc.

Clos Saint Landelin covers 25 acres on the south-facing slopes. Benefiting from a hot and dry climate, this limestone hillside has been a vineyard since the eighth century, when it belonged to the influential Bishop of Strasbourg. The Bishop bequeathed the site to the monks of Saint-Landelin abbey. It remained in their tenure until the French revolution.

The walled vineyard (Clos) is situated in the southern part of the 73 hectare (180 acre) Vorbourg Grand Cru vineyard just southwest of the town of Rouffach. As such, it qualifies for the Alsace Grand Cru title and wines from the Clos may feature the Vorbourg name on the label as well as that of the Clos. The site boasts a number of terraces cultivated in order to aid soil retention of the rocky, clay-limestone slope. Although the lower slopes contain more calcerous sandstone, the Clos’ geology is generally similar to that of the wider Vorbourg with multiple clay-marl layers.

The vineyard is planted with six varieties. Riesling is found on the lower slopes, with Gewürztraminer and Muscat in the centre. Closest to the southern spur of the hill and the town of Ruffach, in the very southeastern corner of the Clos is the Sylvaner, with the Pinot Gris at the opposite, southwestern end. On the top reaches of the Clos, Pinot Noir is planted. Although Pinot Noir represents 10% (and rising) of Alsace’s vine plantings, it is not permitted under the current Alsace Grand Cru appellation laws. Red Clos Saint Landelin wine does not therefore qualify as Grand Cru and must be sold under the regional Alsace appellation.

Though situated only 500 metres away from Clos Saint Landelin, the plots in the Grand Cru Vorbourg vineyard are richer in clay. They produce powerful, velvety wines, elegant expressions of fruit aromas with good acidity on the finish.

Mure’s other Grand Cru vineyard, the Zinnkoepflé produces fresh, complex and spicy wines with intense floral aromas, at once startling and then so seductive with pronounced minerality. The geological make up here is of calcareous sandstone topsoil with a predominance of shell limestone from the Triassic period. Geographically, it is situated in the Soultzmatt Valley which is south-east facing. It has very steep slopes, at 420 metres (1200 feet) above sea level, Zinnkoepflé is the highest Grand Cru vineyard in Alsace. The varieties planted here are Gewürztraminer and Riesling

The plateau located above the Clos Saint Landelin is named “Lutzeltal”. The soil is particularly stony here: it is sandy limestone with a little clay. The climate is very dry due to the exposure to the wind and to the fact it has the lowest precipitation. Consequently, they train the vine to have deep roots, and they purposely avoid high yields. The wines are very delicate and are characterised by an aromatic palate based on fruits. The Lutzeltal site is renown for producing beautiful Pinot Gris.

The “Steinstuck” vineyard is nestled above the village of Westhalten and gives racy and fresh wines marked by minerally chalky notes and hints of wet stone. The limestone terroir is very stony aptly named Steinstuck which means “stoney plot” in Alsatian dialect.

In all the vineyards, the work is done by traditional ploughing and biodynamic/organic farming, reflecting respect for the terroir. Further, the work in the cellar is low intervention and minimalist – striving to reflect as much as possible their unique terroir. Additionally, they feel the “signature” of their land is also highlighted by using indigenous yeasts for all fermentations whilst maturing the wines on lees for added texture. All in all, creating balance and harmony as the hallmark of Muré aromatic wines.

Without exception, Domaine Muré wines are fine and rich with beautifully mineral‐laden acidity. This is largely achieved in the vineyard where Alsace’s naturally long ripening season is enhanced by Muré’s highly prized south‐facing slopes. However, these elegant wines are also an extension of not just their terroir but also of the people who craft them – steeped in a lengthy family history that gives a deep sense of continuity and pride in their vinous jewels. These are truly exciting wines – abundant in flavour, opulence and ethereal grace.

2016 Domaine Muré Calcaires Jaunes Riesling
“The fresh nose almost has a hint of salted lemon. On the palate both lemon and tart, red apple takes over but the lemon streak of bright freshness dominates for now, creating drive. The concentrated body is bone dry and comes to a mouth-watering, super clean and long finish.” 93/100 points Wine Enthusiast

2017 Domaine Muré Orchidées Sauvages Gewürztraminer
“Intense red-apple notes are interspersed with vivid, aromatic touches of orange zest on the nose of this wine. The palate reinforces this apple and citrus juiciness, adding a pithy, phenolic edge that gives texture and is mouth-watering, with energy and warmth at the core. This wine has lovely balance, drive and an off-dry finish.” 92/100 points Wine Enthusiast

2013 Domaine Muré Clos Saint Landelin Riesling (Single Vineyard, Grand Cru Vorbourg & Monopole)
“Firm acidity is almost lip-smacking here, but shows lovely integration with the notes of tangerine, passion fruit, fresh quince and smoke, with a minerally salinity and a refined, silky texture. Drink now through 2025.” 93/100 points Wine Spectator

2018 Domaine Muré Pinot Blanc Les Iris
“A whiff of flint is all the nose of this wine gives away. The palate presents gentle, fresh red apple and subtle, bright but ripe lemon. A slight yeasty edge gives texture to this light, dry and harmonious wine.” 89/100 points Wine Enthusiast

NV Domaine Muré Crémant d’Alsace Brut
“Bright fresh notes of greengage and lemon play on the nose. The palate has the same zippy fruit flavours which are ripe but remain resolutely fresh. The mousse is frothy and lively, accentuating the lemony brightness even more against a more mellow autolytic background. A wonderfully balanced dry fresh apéritif.” 90/100 points Wine Enthusiast