This has hints of toast and chamomile to the apple and baked-pear aromas. It’s full-bodied, lightly nutty and toasty, but fresh, too. Drink now.

The 2018 Nicolas Catena Zapata was produced with 65% Cabernet Sauvignon from Gualtallary (Adrianna vineyard, with the Cabernet Sauvignon interplanted with some Cabernet Franc) and 35% Malbec from Altamira (Nicasia vineyard). They no longer use grapes from Agrelo, and this is also a lot higher in Malbec than in other recent vintages. So, it has a very different profile, a change that started in 2017, with more contained ripeness and more freshness, and the wine is intense, keeping some of the Cabernet character (tobacco, blackberries) and the floral notes from Malbec. It comes through as balanced and harmonious, with very fine tannins and a long finish and perfect ripeness. This aims to revive the style of Bordeaux before phylloxera, from massal selection of ungrafted vines... 62,400 bottles produced. It was bottled in December 2019.

Strikingly different from the 2016 of the same wine tasted alongside. Darker, cloves, more spice, more power. Bay leaf. Wood bark and meat. A trace of cooked mulberry, dried woodland fruit, biltong. The structure of the wine feels marble-stone rectangular, Pantheonic in its power and geometric, foursquare, foundational magnificence and impressiveness. The kind of wine that has me looking up, and up, in awe. Their notes say the ideal drinking window is 2040 to 2048, but without that kind of aging reference point, I'm going to be much more conservative in my estimate.

The 2018 Nicolás Catena Zapata was produced with 65% Cabernet Sauvignon from Gualtallary (Adrianna vineyard, with the Cabernet Sauvignon interplanted with some Cabernet Franc) and 35% Malbec from Altamira (Nicasia vineyard). They no longer use grapes from Agrelo, and this is also a lot higher in Malbec than in other recent vintages. So, it has a very different profile, a change that started in 2017, with more contained ripeness and more freshness, and the wine is intense, keeping some of the Cabernet character (tobacco, blackberries) and the floral notes from Malbec. It comes through as balanced and harmonious, with very fine tannins and a long finish and perfect ripeness. This aims to revive the style of Bordeaux before phylloxera, from massal selection of ungrafted vines... 62,400 bottles produced. It was bottled in December 2019.

Strikingly different from the 2016 of the same wine tasted alongside. Darker, cloves, more spice, more power. Bay leaf. Wood bark and meat. A trace of cooked mulberry, dried woodland fruit, biltong. The structure of the wine feels marble-stone rectangular, Pantheonic in its power and geometric, foursquare, foundational magnificence and impressiveness. The kind of wine that has me looking up, and up, in awe. Their notes say the ideal drinking window is 2040 to 2048, but without that kind of aging reference point, I'm going to be much more conservative in my estimate. 

The 2019 Nicolás Catena Zapata was produced with 42% Cabernet Sauvignon from Gualtallary (Adrianna Vineyard), 30% Malbec from Altamira (Nicasia Vineyard) and a high percentage of Cabernet Franc (28%), also from Adrianna, which took the place of Cabernet Sauvignon. It fermented in small oak barrels, concrete and stainless steel tanks with a short post-fermentative maceration. Élevage was in first and second-use French oak barrels and lasted for 18 months, including malolactic.his is always quite classical in style, with some spiciness from the barrels and hints of smoke and toast, still very young and undeveloped. It has the traditional Bordeaux-blend character and is herbal, floral and spicy, with a beautiful texture, very nice balance and very fine, chalky tannins. 2019 was a very dry year, and the berries were small, very healthy and delivered powerful wines.

This has a complex nose of baked blackberries, grilled plums, dried earth, moss, pine cones, sandalwood, charcoal and cloves. It’s medium-bodied with firm, tightly knit tannins. Wow. So much going on. Layered, seamless and silky. Incredible length. Keeps going. 42% cabernet sauvignon, 30% malbec and 28% cabernet franc.

The 2019 Nicolás Catena Zapata was produced with 42% Cabernet Sauvignon from Gualtallary (Adrianna Vineyard), 30% Malbec from Altamira (Nicasia Vineyard) and a high percentage of Cabernet Franc (28%), also from Adrianna, which took the place of Cabernet Sauvignon. It fermented in small oak barrels, concrete and stainless steel tanks with a short post-fermentative maceration. Élevage was in first and second-use French oak barrels and lasted for 18 months, including malolactic.his is always quite classical in style, with some spiciness from the barrels and hints of smoke and toast, still very young and undeveloped. It has the traditional Bordeaux-blend character and is herbal, floral and spicy, with a beautiful texture, very nice balance and very fine, chalky tannins. 2019 was a very dry year, and the berries were small, very healthy and delivered powerful wines.

This has a complex nose of baked blackberries, grilled plums, dried earth, moss, pine cones, sandalwood, charcoal and cloves. It’s medium-bodied with firm, tightly knit tannins. Wow. So much going on. Layered, seamless and silky. Incredible length. Keeps going.

The sleek and elegant 2019 Adrianna Vineyard Mundus Bacillus Terrae is now certified organic (since 2018) and comes from vines planted in 1992 at 1,390 meters above sea level in Gualtallary on alluvial limestone soils. Seventy-five percent of the volume fermented in concrete vats with 50% full clusters, and the remaining 25% fermented in oak foudres. But instead of fermenting the grapes, they only fermented the juice (as it's usually done for white wines), to give the wine more elegance and lightness. I was listening to a record from a new band, Generation Radio, with musicians from Journey and Chicago, and the music had a similar profile to the wine: sleek, elegant, polished, nicely crafted, clean and harmonious, easy to listen to (and drink to) with a soft side to it. The wine has ripeness (14% alcohol) but also high acidity from the high-altitude vineyards, which makes it very lively, beautifully textured, balanced and elegant. Beautiful. 5,400 bottles were filled in November 2020.

Medium tannins. Earthy and toasty, with prune, black olive, scorched almond and a hint of tawny port.

Richly fruited and instantly appealing, the wine shows blackberry, cedary oak, toasted spice and rich floral aromas, followed by a generously expressed palate offering succulent fruit intensity with plump mouthfeel and plush tannins. Upfront and flavoursome, offering splendid drinking. At its best: now to 2036. (Nov 2023.)

Beautifully fruited and perfumed, the bouquet shows dark plum, cherry, rich floral, warm spice and roasted nut aromas, followed by a silky-smooth palate that's succulent and fleshy. Splendidly composed and harmonious, offering fabulous drinking. At its best: now to 2030. (Aug 2024.)

This is splendidly expressed and inviting on the nose, showing sweet plum, mixed spice, floral and hazelnut aromas. The palate delivers beautifully rounded mouthfeel, wonderfully supported by fleshy texture and fine, polished tannins. Flavoursome and delectable with a lingering soothing finish. At its best: now to 2035. (Nov 2023.)

The Polish Hill Riesling is muscular and defined in its structure and is routinely possessed of an authority and grace straight off the bat. This 2022 Polish Hill Riesling is mineral and fine, but phenolic and taut, too. The acidity creates tension and life in the mouth, and despite the wine being pristine, it is chalky and pithy, too. The Polish Hill Riesling has a decorated legacy and is prized for its longevity in the cellar. There have been mutterings of similarities between 2022 and the great and fabled 2002 vintage, boding very well indeed for the future of this wine. Riesling mainlines the dirt and takes us to place. This is why we gravitate toward great wine, to be taken to dirt, vineyard and region. Drink 2022-2042.

Awarded top rank, 5 stars. Jeffrey Grosset reckons 2022 is an even better vintage for him thank 2021, which is some statement as 2021 was a cracker. This wine is always reserved when very young, and so it is with 2022. Pale colour, creamy yeasty, waxy, lemon-pith and blossom aromas, discreet and refined, tense and delicate in mouth. Built beautiful perfumes with time in the glass. Racy and lean. Tension is high, the wine is dry but supple and balanced. Harmonious. Long finish, needs time.

Bright, pristine and inviting, the bouquet shows lemon pith, crunchy apple, white floral and a hint of tropical fruit notes. The palate is equally charming with a linear mouthfeel backed by crisp acidity, finishing splendidly long and mouth-watering. Beautifully composed with juicy fruit flavours and fine structure. At its best: 2027 to 2039. 

Splendidly ripe and perfumed on the nose showing black/blueberry, violet, toasted spice and hazelnut characters, leading to a beautifully weighted palate offering velvety texture and plump mouthfeel. Generous and flavoursome with a lingering silky finish. At its best: now to 2032.

The Mayor's vineyard was planted by a former Mayor of Adelaide in 1969, at 500 meters in elevation on the eastern ridge of Clare Valley. Red loam and slate define the soils here, and that ferrous grunt and minerality go hand in hand in the glass. This 2020 The Mayor's Vineyard Shiraz is an exceptionally savory, layered Shiraz with red dirt, hung deli meat, some oolong tea and salted mulberries at the fore. This is a wonderful wine, at the beginning of its life.''Reviewed Sep 16, 2022

It's full of flavourful with layers of fruit and polished tannins. Serious Shiraz!

 It's splendidly fruited and fragrant on the nose, showing blackcurrant, green olive, nutmeg and floral aromas, leading to a fruit-expressive palate delivering excellent weight and elegant structure. Varietally expressive and enticing with a lingering flavoursome finish. At its best: now to 2031. June 2023, 93Pts 5 Stars

Subtle, silky and restrained for an Oz shiraz. Soft spicy oak with a hint of herb, dark Ghana chocolate, soy umami and a dry finish. Tasted August 2024.

The Knappstein Sparkling Shiraz offers ripe fruit, with soft plump tannins, and a dry finish. Concentration of fruit balances with savoury spice and earthy notes, while waiting for the refreshing hit from the bubbles as they tantalise the palate, leaving a cleansing sensation.

As with so many cabernets, lots of air and time to open up makes such a big difference. This appeared raw and closed at first, with raspy tannins. It then revealed cassis, leafy freshness, dark chocolate, herbs and menthol. A core of sweet fruit works in unison with the cedary oak and while more bottle aged is needed to smooth out the tannins, they are knitted into the body of the wine.

Released with 4 years under its belt yet fresh as can be. The oak has fallen into place, adding extra oomph on the palate. Full-bodied with ample tannins. It's a good place: fruit is still the mix yet savouriness abounds. 

Wine Showcase Magazine: "Classic herbal, cassis cabernet aromas. A rich, ripe, well-structured wine with everything in perfect balance. Lovely fruit flavours, quality oak and nice acidity."

The NV Rosewood Vineyards Muscat appears only slightly less complex than the Muscadelle. Possessing a very pale brown colour with a glint of gold, this wine is quite grapey on the nose with notes of brandied sultanas and spice cake. In the mouth, a very sweet and rich with relatively medium-high acid to balance. The finish is very long with flavors of spicy grape syrup. As with the Muscadelle, this is also an amazing value.

Such beautiful aromas of crushed berries, currants, walnuts, allspice and nutmeg follow through to a full body with tight, ultra fine tannins that provide length and intensity. A finish of slightly dried cherries with wet earth, slate and stone. Chewy and fine-grained. A wine with soul and length. Give it time. Drink after 2025.

This is precise, expressive and fresh, with a wild character, very different from the other Cinsaults. It has a brothy, meaty touch on the palate that makes it very tasty. Clean and precise, with very good grip, 2018 has to be the finest vintage to date for this wine.

Open wine (herbal, black but delicate fruit, complex). Very well done, with freshness and finesse. I love it! It has a mineral expression, with a soft palate and floral flavours. Spicy and delicate finish, a wonderful Cinsault!

The 2019 Almaviva is a blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Carmenère (from Peumo), 5% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot and 1% Merlot, higher in Carmenere and reflecting a warmer and drier vintage when then bottled wine reached 15% alcohol. It's full-bodied and round, with saturated tannins, tasty, spicy and long, with a dry, serious finish. It's balsamic, with notes of camphor and a silky and velvety texture.

The 2019 Almaviva is a blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Carmenère (from Peumo), 5% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot and 1% Merlot, higher in Carmenere and reflecting a warmer and drier vintage when then bottled wine reached 15% alcohol. It's full-bodied and round, with saturated tannins, tasty, spicy and long, with a dry, serious finish. It's balsamic, with notes of camphor and a silky and velvety texture.

2020 was exceptionally dry, with 75% less rain than usual in the period between May and September, which resulted in an earlier harvest to produce a 2020 Almaviva. Ageing of 20 months in French oak barrels, 73% of them new and the rest second use. It still shows the effect of the élevage a bit, with abundant notes of sweet spices, a creamy touch and some smoke. I tasted it next to the 2019, and the wines have a very similar aromatic palette with a clear note of baked peppers. What was amazing in 2020 was that they harvested the Carmenere almost five weeks earlier than they normally would, and the result is not a green wine at all. As in all dry years, the wines show a little more tannic, a little in the style of the 2017—but the 2020 has more tension than the 2017, and the 2017 was more powerful and with a bigger tannic structure. The 2019 had more volume than the 2018, and the 2020 is closer to the 2019 than the 2018. 96/100 Luis Gutiérrez.

Fresh and deep nose, full of blueberries, minty cassis, mussels, cigars, dark spice and roasted sesame oak, which will need a year or two to fully integrate. A medium-to full-bodied Almaviva with supple, silky tannins and a wealth of black and blue fruit that provides a lot of charm now. Voluptuous and flattering on the palate, hallmarked by its tension and taut texture. Very long. This is the 25th anniversary bottling. 68% cabernet sauvignon, 24% carmenere, 6% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot. Drinkable now, but better from 2024.

This Pinot Noir-led bubbly from West Sussex bursts from the glass with singular notes of lemon, thyme and fresh hazelnut, then back to more citrus—fresh this time—with an underbelly of cream and a hint of smoke. The palate is equally expressive, the bright, mouthwatering acidity slicing through the gentle toast with a tangy zing of lemon right to the finish. Bracingly refreshing and nothing but class, this is delicious now, chilled for a warm summer's day. 

It's a blend of pinot noir (50 percent), chardonnay and meunier from the North and South Downs of Kent, Sussex and Hampshire, where the soils are mostly chalk and clay. It's a pretty pink wine with some delicacy to its red-currant flavors, lasting with notes of cardamom and star anise. Pour it with duck rillettes.

The Light Drinker: According to the Pentire website, Pentire Adrift has the highest rating of any non-alcoholic spirit on the Trustpilot ratings; they certainly have some very enthusiastic reviews and I agree with all of them.  This is a beautifully crafted drink, no bells or whistles or fancy tricks, just a strongly confident blend of superbly chosen flavours. There’s bright top notes of zesty grapefruit peel balanced by a strongly herbal muskiness of sage which round out the thinness of the citrus,  and the whole is enlivened with the freshness of sea salt and samphire.  It’s fabulous on the nose and, mixed with tonic, is rounded and satisfying, the aromatics performing just as they do in a good gin. There’s a slight sherbetiness in the finish, although there’s no sweetness in the mix, and the whole represents a superb mastery of blending.   If you only have one non-alcohol drink in your cupboard, it might as well be this one.

"Our taste-testers hugely enjoyed the Coastal Spritz, scoring it highly for flavour and fun. They were also impressed with its lack of a synthetic/chemical taste when compared to some other non-alcoholic aperitifs." AlcoholChange.co.uk  

A strong effort, the 2020 Branas Grand Poujeaux exhibits aromas of sweet spices, cherries, berries, licorice, loamy soil and toasty new oak. Medium to full-bodied, supple and lively, in a bold and dramatic but nicely balanced style, it will offer a broad drinking window. Drink Date: 2022 - 2038

Jeff Leve, The Wine Cellar Insider: "Scoring at the top of the range, due to all of the freshness and vibrance in the sweet, plums and cherries, the tannins are soft, polished and elegant, giving you the opportunity to enjoy all the chocolate, plums and sweet, spicy, earthy, ripe fruits in the finish. Drink from 2023-2040.

Bright, even, pale yellow with some depth. This has a lush, attractive bouquet, penetrating with aromas of rose water, Turkish delight, lychee, red apple and delicate spice. Full-bodied, off-dry to taste, aromas of lychee, baked apple and ginger melded with rose water and Turkish delight. The opulent mouthfeel flows with gentle acidity and spice, and carries a moderately long finish. A classic Alsatian Gewurztraminer displaying lush fruit and an opulent mouthfeel. Match with fish curry and liver pate over the next 5+ years. 13.5% alc. 18.5/20 pts (93 pts) Dec 2023

This sleek, light- to medium-bodied white is richly aromatic, with slate and saline notes that expand on the creamy palate, underscoring flavors of Gala apple, anise, slivered almond and honeysuckle. Lithe and lovely. Drink now through 2029.

Aromas of lilacs, slate and dried apple follow through to a medium body with vivid flavors and intense fruit and citrus at the finish. Tight and exciting. Better in a couple years to come together but rejoice in its youthful vigor. Drink now. Made from organically grown grapes. Demeter approved.

Where is the lobster? The very complex mirabelle-tart and spice nose pulls you into this stunning dry riesling that beautifully balances vibrant acidity and ripeness that borders on the exotic. Very straight and long finish that’s got a lot of mineral subtlety. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drink or hold.

The 2022 Gewurztraminer Orchidées Sauvages is subtly scented with summer blossom and white peach. The palate is rounded, adding ripe, juicy, yellow peach and beautiful freshness. This is like digging into a flower-scented, lemon-dressed peach salad with a beautiful phenolic structure and freshness to balance the gentle sweetness of 10 g/L. The 2022 is wonderfully poised with its scented nature. This is summer in a glass. (Off-Dry) -- Anne Krebiehl MW

Slight reduction still hovers on this wine's nose but yeasty apple freshness awaits underneath. Yeasty finesse and bright freshness come together on the palate, making for a light-bodied, elegant and dry wine with yeasty resonance. 

Aromas of dark cherries, blackberries, mulberries and warm spices preface the 2017 Morgon Côte du Py, a deep, full-bodied wine with superb concentration, succulent acids and a richly extracted chassis of powdery tannin that asserts itself on the youthfully chewy finish. This is a Morgon built for the cellar and emphatically not designed for immediate gratification, but the wine's purity and integration confirm the promise it showed from barrel.

Very pretty aromas of crushed berries and spices with some shitake-mushroom undertones. Medium body, light tannins and a creamy texture. Orange-peel and berry aftertaste. Wet-earth nuances.

A wine built for the cellar, the 2017 Moulin-à-Vent Clos de Rochegrès unfurls in the glass with a rich bouquet of ripe berry fruit, spices, candied peel and dark chocolate. On the plate, it's full-bodied, rich and concentrated, with an ample core of fruit, ripe acids and a chewy chassis of tannin that will require some patience. Impressively, this Moulin-à-Vent has already largely integrated its new wood, and though it's a high wire act in terms of alcohol and extraction, I suspect it will evolve positively in the cellar. Drink 2022-2040 (Tasted 2019)

This wood-aged wine comes from 45-year-old vines in one of the top vineyards in the appellation. Rich and beautifully structured, it has tannins and a firm structure that point to aging. Wait to drink this wine until 2022. Roger Voss

Velvety tannins envelope the licorice-tinged cherry and raspberry flavors in this bold, medium-bodied red, with tangy acidity weaving through the spice and mineral elements. Drink now through 2027.

Fantastic core of dark ruby leading to a bright pale ruby and pink rim. Aromas of fresh dark cherry and brown baking spices, a granitic-like stony mineral quality and dark roses quality. Dry on the palate and quite intense with a core of dark red berry.

Soft, fruity, gamay with mellow, flavours that suggest ripe plum, cherry, and a seasoning of spices. Accessible now but no hurry. Seductive texture, not particularly powerful but delicious to drink. 10 JAN 2024.

An hour of air and the wine truly blossomed. Texturally, the wine was supple and fresh. The fruit was perfectly ripe, the flavors were bold and finish offered the right mix of purity, pleasure, length and style. This is drinking really well today. If you've been sitting on your bottles, now is a good time to pop a cork. Jeff Leve The Wine Cellar tasted November 2017.

A deep and rich nose, but so pure, clear and clean, it smells beautiful. The aromas really shine in the glass, too, with a texture that is smooth and supple, giving and generous. A powerful wine with excellent persistence from start to finish. Extremely youthful, tense and focused into one sleek line and, although you get ripe fruit - black berries, cassis, with some gorgeous bitter orange peel nuances - there's so much minty freshness too. Concentration but no overt heaviness, discreet power. I love the chalky, milk chocolate nuances - well built and complex with a clear backbone and long ageing potential. Brilliant winemaking on show.

A brilliant wine that signposts this estate's evolution under Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal, the 2021 Angélus is a blend of 60% Cabernet Franc and 40% Merlot, with fully half of the old-vine Cabernet Franc maturing in foudres rather than 225-liter barriques. The result is a wine of unprecedented purity and finesse, unwinding in the glass with compelling aromas of plums, raspberries, rose petals, vine smoke, blood orange and warm spices, followed by a medium to full-bodied, deep and layered palate with a rich and fleshy core that entirely conceals its structuring chassis of ultra-refined tannins. Bright and sapid, it's striking for its integration and elegance at this early stage, and I wouldn't be surprised to see it upstage a number of more touted vintages once it's in bottle. 94-96+ William Kelley, Wine Advocate.

There's terrific density and power, especially within the context of the year. Black cherry, chocolate, spice, menthol and lavender all build nicely in the glass. The 2021 has quite a bit of richness, and its 14% alcohol, a bit lower than the recent norm, works quite well in this vintage. All it needs is a bit of time to help soften some of the raw contours that are present today.

"Fresh blackcurrant infused with floral notes: just like on the nose, the palate prioritizes finesse over power, supported by a subtle vanilla touch that allows the fruit to breathe in the finish. A remarkable composition." - La Tulip Rouge

Bright and pure, with white peach, Key lime, verbena and tarragon accents that marry well, finishing with a suave and lingering feel. Distinctive and alluring in the end. Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. Drink now through 2025.

Perfumed, floral nose with an innate sweetness that stays through to the palate. Perhaps not quite as fragrant as 2018. Round and flattering on the palate, the attack direct, texture smooth and tannins finely honed. Point of acidity for freshness. Decent length.

Pale golden orange. Very sweet and lacking complexity but one of the smoothest, sweetest vintages here like molten honey with a hint of orange-flower water. Still going strong. Just drying a little on the finish.

The Gounouilhou family bottled to order and the wines from 1970 back belong very much to their era. Orange barley-sugar colour very bright. Light and refreshing and sweet and a bit sticky. Bit of decay and lots of chew and alcohol. No length. Chewy end.

The 1975 Climens has a glorious bouquet with beautifully defined citrus fruit, wild honey, orange blossom and just a touch of old antique furniture. It blossoms in the glass. The palate is fresh and vibrant with a killer line of acidity. This is still fresh and tense with marmalade, grapefruit, mandarin, bitter orange and brown spices. It feels long and tender in the mouth: quite a powerful Climens at its peak.

This particular bottle was very slightly stinky on the nose, certainly when first opened. It was admirably balanced on the palate in terms of sweetness (not that sweet in fact) and acidity and was pretty impressively lively for a 40-year-old wine but I suspect it was not the best bottle. See Julia's very enthusiastic note on what I suspect was a much better bottle.

Tasted single blind against its peers. Château Climens always tends to go into its shell after bottling, which is probably why I was not dishing out an even higher score to this still, spellbinding Barsac. The 2007 is endowed with a lovely bouquet: very pure with honey, a touch of orange-blossom and a touch of quince. The palate is very well-balanced with great purity and a dash of spice as well as a lovely viscous, botrytis-laden finish that possesses awesome weight and persistency. This is a slice of heaven in a glass, but it definitely needs time to reveal its true potential. Tasted January 2011.

Tasted single blind against its peers. Château Climens always tends to go into its shell after bottling, which is probably why I was not dishing out an even higher score to this still, spellbinding Barsac. The 2007 is endowed with a lovely bouquet: very pure with honey, a touch of orange-blossom and a touch of quince. The palate is very well-balanced with great purity and a dash of spice as well as a lovely viscous, botrytis-laden finish that possesses awesome weight and persistency. This is a slice of heaven in a glass, but it definitely needs time to reveal its true potential. Tasted January 2011.

Tasted blind. Charry blackberries on the nose with structure and real follow-through. Some St-Estéphe stoniness discernible through the fruit. Long.

Deep purple-black in colour, it pops with explosive scents of ripe red and black currants, black cherry preserves and black raspberries, followed by sparks of violets, wild sage, pencil lead and clove oil, with emerging hints of iron ore and damp soil. The medium-bodied palate has amazing elegance and grace contrasted by jaw-dropping energy, featuring a firm frame of finely grained tannins and just enough freshness, finishing with a whole firework display of mineral nuances. I love the way this Cos d'Estournel shimmies and shines—a unique vintage signature expressed so beautifully at this estate!

Deep purple-black in colour, it pops with explosive scents of ripe red and black currants, black cherry preserves and black raspberries, followed by sparks of violets, wild sage, pencil lead and clove oil, with emerging hints of iron ore and damp soil. The medium-bodied palate has amazing elegance and grace contrasted by jaw-dropping energy, featuring a firm frame of finely grained tannins and just enough freshness, finishing with a whole firework display of mineral nuances. I love the way this Cos d'Estournel shimmies and shines—a unique vintage signature expressed so beautifully at this estate!

96–98. Barrel Sample. For the vintage, this is a big wine. Big in all the senses, giving juicy black fruits and powerful tannins. The fruit also exudes great concentration. It will take many years to develop fully.

Deep garnet-purple coloured, the 2016 Ducru-Beaucaillou features a wonderfully savory, earthy/meaty nose, delivering well-defined notes of tapenade, truffles, charcuterie and sautéed herbs over créme de cassis, wild blueberries and kirsch.

The 2016 Ducru-Beaucaillou was picked 24 September to 10 October, matured in 100% new oak for 18 months. It has an etheral boquet, the purest on any Ducru-Beaucaillou, with copious dark cherries, violet and mineral scents, a touch of forest floor emerges with time. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity, a little more red fruit towards the finish than the 2018 tasted alongside and maybe just beginning to closeup to mature over the long-term. What a fantastic wine, one that will vie with the 2009 and maybe the 2018 as one of the peaks. Tasted at the Ducru Beaucaillou vertical at the Château.

The 2018 Figeac is composed of 37% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Cabernet Franc, with a 3.7 pH and 14% alcohol. Deep garnet-purple in colour, it soars out of the glass with opening notes of freshly crushed red and black cherries.

The 2018 Figeac is a regal, aristocrat Saint-Emilion. Vertical in feel, Figeac possesses a stunning energy and vibrancy right out of the gate. Fark cherry, plum, mocha, licorice, rse petal and spice all open with a bit of coaxing. Figeac is a bit restrained today, but it won't be an issue is another few years/ time. Figeac is not obvious wine, but it is superb.

Dark ruby garnet, ochre reflections, broader lightening on the rim. Tobacco on the nose with fine noble wood, dark berry fruit, black cherry and notes of cedar. Medium body, hints of ripe plum, integrated tannins, mineral and fresh on the finish. Good aging potential.

The 2019 Figeac has turned out brilliantly. Wafting from the glass with aromas of blackberries, cassis, warm spices, violets and pencil shavings, framed by a deft touch of nicely integrated new oak, it's full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with terrific depth at the core, powdery structuring tannins and lively acids, concluding with a long, precise finish. Rich but vibrant, this 2019 reflects the new precision that Frédéric Faye has brought to Figeac; but while it's richer and more polished than the wines of yesteryear, the estate's identity hasn't been lost.

The 2020 Figeac is the finest wine that has been bottled to date at this estate since its renaissance began a decade ago. Wafting from the glass with aromas of blackberries and raspberries mingled with cigar wrapper, pencil shavings, licorice and black truffles, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a suave, harmonious profile, vibrant acids, and beautifully refined structuring tannins. This sapid, complex wine represents the essence of this great terroir. Two years after extensive soil studies of the estate were carried out, and the first growing season to see cover crops used in the vineyards year-round, the 2020 benefited from more coherently demarcated parcels and more precise élevage, which taken together help to account for its edge over the excellent 2019.  The 2020 Figeac is a blend of 37% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Franc and 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, weighing in with an alcohol of 13.9% and a pH of 3.7. Opaque purple-black coloured, it bursts from the glass with a beautifully vibrant initial wave of pure, pristine black fruits: fresh black cherries, juicy black plums and ripe blackcurrants. With swirling, a whole array of floral and spice notes is unleashed: lavender, ground cloves, cumin seed, cardamom and rose oil. The medium-bodied palate is surprisingly graceful for the intensity of aromas, featuring ethereal, perfumed black berry notes, framed by a seamless line of freshness and ripe, grainy tannins, finishing on a lingering fragrant earth note. Far more cerebral and quietly introspective than it is hedonic, this could only be Figeac.

Gentle, juicy and pure with nothing overdone. Merlot provides the broad-brush sweetness on attack, the Cabernet the fresh, minerally notes on the finish. Fine grain of tannin and aromatic complexity on the nose and palate; the finesse is there.

The 2020 Figeac is the finest wine that has been bottled to date at this estate since its renaissance began a decade ago. Wafting from the glass with aromas of blackberries and raspberries mingled with cigar wrapper, pencil shavings, licorice and black truffles, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a suave, harmonious profile, vibrant acids, and beautifully refined structuring tannins. This sapid, complex wine represents the essence of this great terroir. Two years after extensive soil studies of the estate were carried out, and the first growing season to see cover crops used in the vineyards year-round, the 2020 benefited from more coherently demarcated parcels and more precise élevage, which taken together help to account for its edge over the excellent 2019. 

One of the highlights of the vintage on the Right Bank, the 2021 Figeac is a blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Cabernet Franc and 29% Merlot, and the fruit of a harvest that lasted a full month, from September 21 to October 19, with each parcel picked at optimal maturity. Offering up aromas of blackberries, cassis, rose petals, violets, cigar wrapper and sweet soil tones, it’s medium to full-bodied, supple and seamless, its velvety attack segueing into a deep, layered core of beautifully vibrant fruit, concluding with a long, saline finish. The first vintage vinified in Figeac’s new winery, it’s a resounding success for administrator Frederic Faye and his team. [12/05/2022]

One of my absolute favourite wines in 2021 with Figeac’s star power clearly on show. Amazing aromatic complexity on the nose; dark chocolate with perfume from the Cabernet Franc – pink flowers, red cherry touches vanilla and cinnamon – such a seductive smell. Pure and focused – so smooth and sleek with a clear tang to the palate. Quite taut, so defined and pure. The minerality comes through the sweet strawberry and raspberry fruit giving that chalky, salty flavour and texture on the palate. Everything is precise and in the right place. You can tell this is ripe, the concentration is there in the fruit, alongside such bright freshness but also these fun and playful red fruit flavours with lively acidity. Classic Bordeaux style with vibrancy, clarity and harmony – you feel the St-Emilion terroir and the understated glamour. This is an epic wine, a brilliant Figeac and contender for wine of the Right Bank. 100% new oak. 3.65pH. 

Medium-bodied with fine, supple tannins. Clear and focused with blackberry, blackcurrant, thyme and crushed-stone notes. Fresh and mineral at the end.

Dark ruby, narrow purple rim. Fine cedar notes over tobacco savouriness, blackberry aromas lie over subtle herbal notes. Medium-boded, red cherry fruit, delicate wood nuances, salty note with fresh acidity showing on the finish.

A blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot, the 2020 Haut-Bailly was harvested from the 9th to 25th of September. It has an alcohol of 14.3%. Deep purple-black in color, it prances out of the glass with naturally beautiful notions of fresh black cherries, violets, mulberries and boysenberries, giving way to hints of redcurrant jelly, star anise, tilled soil and menthol. The medium to full-bodied palate is delicately crafted with velvety/grainy tannins and fantastic freshness framing the perfumed red and black berry layers, finishing on a lingering fragrant-earth note.

99-100 Points. This has incredible power and drive with blackberry, black olive and graphite. It’s full-bodied, yet dynamic and agile, with so much polished and muscular tannin. Yet, it remains in harmony and balance. So much character. The head of the chateau calls it diabolical beauty.

A classic in the making, the 2021 Haut-Bailly wafts from the glass with aromas of dark berries and wild plums mingled with sweet spices, loamy soil, raw cocoa and violets. Medium to full-bodied, seamless and concentrated, with bright acids, ultra-refined tannins and a long, penetrating finish, it's a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, only 22% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc. With yields of a mere 19 hectoliters per hectare, it's impressively intensely flavored despite its quintessentially elegant, classically proportioned profile. In many respects, it may represent the Cabernet-driven modern-day alter ego of the superb Merlot-dominant 1998 Haut-Bailly.

95–97. Barrel Sample. This is a very aromatic, precise wine. Ripe fruits and density are balanced by the wine's freshness and acidity. It has structure that brings out creamy tannins to balance the succulent black fruit flavors. 

The 2020 Haut-Brion is more aromatically demonstrative than La Mission Haut-Brion, bursting with aromas of blackberries and raspberries mingled with licorice, cigar wrapper, pencil shavings and nicely integrated new oak. Full-bodied, ample and fleshy, it's rich and layered, with an enveloping core of fruit that's girdled by plenty of sweet, powdery tannin. Despite checking in at a similarly lofty alcoholic degree to the 2019, its more granular tannic profile tempers the vintage's sweetness of fruit and lends the wine a more classically proportioned, and more classically structured, profile. 

Dark ruby garnet, purple reflections, deep core, delicate rim brightening. Dark wild berries, a touch of noble wood, ripe cherries, delicate floral nuances of candied purple fruit, sweet tobacco, very inviting bouquet. Complex, juicy, red berry texture, well-integrated, ripe tannins, fine sweetness on the finish, already seems very at peace with itself, great length, a great food companion, secure future. (2025-2065).

The 2016 La Conseillante is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc aged in 70% new and 30% one-year-old French oak for 17 months. Deep garnet-purple coloured, it slips provocatively out of the glass with a lifted perfume of roses, candied violets and lavender over a core of warm red and black plums, chocolate box, unsmoked cigars and baked cherries with wafts of wild thyme and tilled soil. Medium-bodied, the palate exudes polish and sophistication with bags of fragrance, freshness and energy, sporting exquisitely fine-grained tannins and finishing very long and minerally. Around 3,808 cases produced.

The 2019 La Conseillante is performing brilliantly and rivals the 2016 as Marielle Cazaux's finest vintage at this leading Pomerol estate to date. Wafting from the glass with striking aromas of raspberries, plums, violets, raw cocoa, sweet soil tones and licorice, framed by a deftly integrated touch of classy new oak, it's full-bodied, ample and enveloping, its broad attack segueing into a seamless, layered mid-palate that's vibrant and concentrated, framed by powdery tannins and lively acids, before concluding with a long, saline finish.

Deeply coloured, high aromatics with iris and violets, extremely focused with savoury fruits - a character that I have found in the Cabernet Francs in this vintage. It has an excellent grip that takes hold from the first moment and carries you through building tannins. A lovely tactile wine and an austere finish, signs that this will age for decades. The chocolate of Pomerol comes in on the end, but you have to wait for it, the beginning is savoury blueberry and raspberry fruit. Harvest September 17 to 21, taking in all the Merlot in four days, quite unusual but they knew rain was coming and wanted it to be in; they pick only in the morning to keep freshness, then Cabernet Franc September 30 and again one day October 7 (the drought slowed ripening more of the Cab Franc). A yield of 34hl/ha.

One of the wines of the vintage is the 2020 La Conseillante, a blend of 86% Merlot and 14% Cabernet Franc that wafts from the glass with inviting aromas of raspberries, red cherries and mulberries mingled with exotic spices, violets and rose petals. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and vibrant, it's a beautifully elegant, sensual wine with a deep core of fruit framed by powdery tannins, concluding with a long, extravagantly floral finish. This is a Pomerol of striking purity and sophistication. Congratulations to Marielle Cazaux and her team for surpassing even what they achieved in 2016 and 2019 with this brilliant 2020! 2027 - 2060

Deep ruby colour with opaque core, purple reflections. Delicate notes of tobacco and herbal spice back black cherry fruit, some nougat, candied orange zest. On the palate this is juicy and elegant with a fine chocolatey texture, ripe tannins, good freshness, silky and long lasting, mineral, very well balanced, certain aging potential.

A superb effort that transcends the challenges of the vintage, the 2021 La Conseillante offers up a beautifully perfumed nose of wild berries, raspberry coulis, violets, exotic spices and vine smoke. Medium to full-bodied, supple and enveloping, it's a sensual, seamless wine that's deep and layered, structured around supple tannins and lively acids. Perfumed and penetrating, the 2021 isn't the most powerful wine this estate has produced, but it brilliantly exemplifies the rare structural elegance and almost Burgundian aromatic range that so often set this great estate apart from the rest of the Pomerol appellation. (WK)

Lovely, balanced and linear with seamless, fine tannins that are soft and creamy. Medium-bodied. Very attractive berry, light walnut and violet character. Long finish. 

 A brilliant wine that shares some similarities with the formidable 1996, the 2021 Lafite Rothschild wafts from the glass with inviting aromas of dark berries, cigar box, loamy soil, black truffle and violets. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, it's rich and concentrated, with beautifully powdery tannins, lively acids and a long, saline finish. Of course, this isn't as dramatic as the 2020 or 2019 out of the gates, but the 2021 is a brilliant success in its own right. What's more, its structure and balance mean that it is likely to prove almost immortal. It's a blend of 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot, which is one of the all-time highest percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon chez Lafite. (WK)

The 2021 Lafite-Rothschild, which was aged in 90% new oak, has a deep, almost opaque hue. This has quite an arresting bouquet with dense blackberry, sous-bois and pencil box scents, quintessential Lafite aromas with nuanced floral scents surfacing with time. The palate is medium-bodied, though with more weight than you would expect given the growing season. The Cabernet Sauvignon imparts graphite and almost briny elements into the aromatic profile. Sapid and classic in style, head winemaker Eric Kohler suggests that it is a return to the style of Lafite-Rothschild of the nineties in terms of freshness. I concur. (NM)

A major sleeper of the vintage, the 2008 La Fleur Petrus (90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc) is a remarkably sexy, opulent wine that transcends the vintage character. Its dense plum/ruby/purple colour is accompanied by notes of sweet black cherries, licorice, truffles and a hint of graphite. Full-bodied with silky tannin as well as undeniable appeal, richness, purity and a 40+ second finish, this is a sure-fire big buy in 2008. Drink it over the next 20+ years.

A major sleeper of the vintage, the 2008 La Fleur Petrus (90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc) is a remarkably sexy, opulent wine that transcends the vintage character. Its dense plum/ruby/purple colour is accompanied by notes of sweet black cherries, licorice, truffles and a hint of graphite. Full-bodied with silky tannin as well as undeniable appeal, richness, purity and a 40+ second finish, this is a sure-fire big buy in 2008. Drink it over the next 20+ years.

Very deep purple-black coloured, the 2020 la Fleur-Petrus leaps from the glass with bold expressions of baked black plums, molten licorice, Indian spices and blackberry preserves, plus hints of charcuterie, black olives and crushed rocks with a touch of unsmoked cigars. The full-bodied palate delivers compelling tension to the rich, hedonic black fruits, framed by firm, grainy tannins, finishing very long and tantalizingly savory.

Second sample: fresher, the fruit very much to the fore, the nose fruity and expressive. Plentiful but fine, filigree tannins ensure a refined but present structure. Freshness and overall harmony. Good potential.

One of the perfect wines of the vintage, Frederic Engerer challenged me when I tasted the 2010 Latour at the estate, asking, 'If you rate the 2009 one hundred, then how can this not be higher?' Well, the scoring system stops at 100, (and has for 34 years,) and will continue for as long as I continue to write about wine. Nevertheless, this blend of 90.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9.5% Merlot, and .5% Petit Verdot hit 14.4% natural alcohol and represents a tiny 36% of their entire production. The pH is about 3.6, which is normal compared to the 3.8 pH of the 2009, that wine being slightly lower in alcohol, hence the combination that makes it more flamboyant and accessible. The 2010 is a liquid skyscraper in the mouth, building layers upon layers of extravagant, if not over-the-top richness with its hints of subtle charcoal, truffle, blackberry, cassis, espresso and notes of toast and graphite. Full-bodied, with wonderfully sweet tannin, it is a mind-boggling, prodigious achievement that should hit its prime in about 15 years, and last for 50 to 100

The 2014 Latour is one of the very finest wines of a vintage that favored the northern Médoc. Mingling aromas of wild berries and cassis with hints of cigar wrapper, loamy soil, black truffles and classy new oak, it’s full-bodied, rich and concentrated, its broad attack segueing into a deep, tightly wound mid-palate that’s framed by powdery, chalky tannins and bright acids, concluding with a long, mouth watering finish. This classically balanced, youthfully structured young wine looks set to enjoy prodigious longevity. It’s reminiscent of a modern-day version of a cooler vintage such as 1996, though of course these days maturity is more complete and selection even more rigorous than was the case two decades ago.

Blended of 97.1% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2.6% Merlot and 0.3% Petit Verdot, the deep garnet-purple colored 2015 Latour is exquisitely perfumed, displaying fragrant notes of crushed black cherries, raspberry preserves, cassis and black plums with nuances of roses, dark chocolate, garrigue, menthol and a waft of sandalwood. The medium-bodied palate beautifully struts its taut, toned, muscular fruit with a frame of very firm, smooth, rounded tannins and compelling freshness, finishing with alluring earth and mineral layers. At once intellectual and sexy, this truly evocative vintage brings to mind the Melanie Griffith line from “Working Girl," possessing a sultry “head for business and a bod for sin." (LPB)

The 2016 Les Forts de Latour is superb, unwinding in the glass with notions of blackcurrants, wild berries, sweet loamy soil, cigar wrapper and English walnuts. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, it’s concentrated and tightly wound, with superb depth at the core, lively acids and ripe, powdery tannins. This is an impeccably balanced, utterly classical Forts de Latour worth a special effort to seek out.

"While it's drinking very well right now, it easily has a good 20 years of cellaring ahead, maybe more. Impressive." Robert Parker.

The power of this wine gives a solid texture and dark black fruits. It has spice and touches of pepper from the wine's alcohol. To balance, the wine has fine acidity and final black-currant flavors. Drink from 2022.

The 2020 Les Carmes Haut-Brion has turned out beautifully, wafting from the glass with aromas of blackberries, red fruits, exotic spices, rose petals, raw cocoa and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, seamless and layered, it's intensely flavored but weightless, with a compelling sense of harmony and a long, orange-inflected finish. A blend of 40% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon and 26% Merlot, it was vinified with some 65% whole bunch and attained 13.5% alcohol. This is the first vintage where Pouthier's methods (whole bunch with weighted cap and long élevage incorporating larger vessels) were applied writ large, and the results are striking. 2025 - 2055

Deep crimson colour. Slightly reserved aromatically but floral notes (lily, iris) as it opens. Dense with a beautifully suave texture, the tannins powerful but refined. Luscious but fresh and long on the finish, the oak (70% new barrels) completely absorbed. Both seductive and restrained. Marked freshness for the year. Will need to check the evolution.

The 2020 Les Carmes Haut-Brion has turned out beautifully, wafting from the glass with aromas of blackberries, red fruits, exotic spices, rose petals, raw cocoa and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, seamless and layered, it's intensely flavored but weightless, with a compelling sense of harmony and a long, orange-inflected finish. A blend of 40% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon and 26% Merlot, it was vinified with some 65% whole bunch and attained 13.5% alcohol. This is the first vintage where Pouthier's methods (whole bunch with weighted cap and long élevage incorporating larger vessels) were applied writ large, and the results are striking. 2025 - 2055

Deep crimson colour. Slightly reserved aromatically but floral notes (lily, iris) as it opens. Dense with a beautifully suave texture, the tannins powerful but refined. Luscious but fresh and long on the finish, the oak (70% new barrels) completely absorbed. Both seductive and restrained. Marked freshness for the year. Will need to check the evolution.

Medium to deep garnet-purple in colour, the 2015 Echo de Lynch Bages has plenty of black fruits on the nose with an earthy undercurrent. The medium-bodied palate is firm and a bit hard with an herbal lift on the finish.

The 2016 Le Petit Lion is composed of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc. Deep garnet-purple coloured, it leaps from the glass with notions of warm blackcurrants, blackberry pie, redcurrant jelly and tilled soil with touches of hoisin, Sichuan pepper, unsmoked cigars, red roses and smoked meats. Medium to full-bodied, the palate explodes with vibrant red and black fruit preserves, with a wonderfully fine-grained frame and very long, lifted finish.

Is the 2019 Château Margaux the wine of the vintage? A strong case in its favor could certainly be made. Soaring from the glass with aromas of blackberries, raspberries, rose petals, violets, pencil shavings and vine smoke, it's full-bodied, layered and sensual, with a strikingly vibrant core of fruit that's framed by ripe, powdery tannins and bright acids, concluding with a penetrating, mouthwateringly saline finish of almost interminable duration. Complex, elegant and utterly compelling, this is a brilliant Bordeaux that anyone with the requisite disposable income is going to want to own.

Is the 2019 Château Margaux the wine of the vintage? A strong case in its favor could certainly be made. Soaring from the glass with aromas of blackberries, raspberries, rose petals, violets, pencil shavings and vine smoke, it's full-bodied, layered and sensual, with a strikingly vibrant core of fruit that's framed by ripe, powdery tannins and bright acids, concluding with a penetrating, mouthwateringly saline finish of almost interminable duration. Complex, elegant and utterly compelling, this is a brilliant Bordeaux that anyone with the requisite disposable income is going to want to own.

The 2020 Château Margaux is composed of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, accounting for 36% of the harvest. The alcohol weighs in at 13.5%, the IPT is 80 and the pH is 3.67. Displaying an opaque purple-black colour, it needs a lot of air, time and patience to coax out the youthfully reticent nose of blueberry preserves, blackcurrant pastilles and Black Forest cake, followed by suggestions of lavender, clove oil, iron ore and menthol with wafts of star anise and candied violets. The medium to full-bodied palate is wonderfully opulent, featuring tightly wound yet beautifully pure layers of black fruits and earthy nuances within a solid structure of firm yet velvety tannins and exhilarating freshness, finishing with very long-lingering earth and mineral notes. Another stunning expression of the vintage by Philippe Bascaules and his team—bravo!

Gorgeous wine that is both classic and expressive. Aromatically complex with floral, mineral and dark-fruit notes. Quality of tannins superb from entry to finish, the texture smooth and velvety. Lovely freshness, poise and length. Perfect pitch. Definitely has the edge on 2019 and 2018. 

"The late-ripening, low-yielding vintage has delivered a beautifully balanced wine of striking intensity in the 2021 Palmer. Unwinding in the glass with complex aromas of blackberries, exotic spices, licorice, violets and burning embers, it's full-bodied, layered and enveloping, with a deep, concentrated core of fruit, ripe tannins and lively acids, concluding with a long, expansive finish. If recent vintages of Palmer have set new records in their power and richness, the 2021 marks a return to the classical proportions of the 1990s—with all the additional concentration and precision that Thomas Douroux's pioneering viticulture and thoughtful winemaking have brought to the equation at this address in the interim. The grand vin is a blend of 56% Merlot, 41% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Petit Verdot, picked between September 24 and October 15. Tasted twice." - William Kelley, The Wine Advocate 

Deep garnet-purple coloured, the 2016 Les Griffons de Pichon Baron gives aromas of tar, sautéed herbs and earth over a cassis and baked cherries core. The palate is medium to full-bodied, firm and chewy, finishing with an herbal lift.

Dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, this is one of a pair of second wines from this estate. With its classic Pauillac black-currant flavors and dense tannins, the wine is a slow developer. By 2025, it should show great fruits and a balanced texture.

Strong ruby garnet, faint ochre reflections, broader brightening on the rim. Attractive bouquet with delicate toasty aromas, fine notes of cassis and blackberry confit and a hint of nougat. Juicy palate with ripe red cherry, velvety, plump tannins, pleasant ripeness and freshness on the finish, mineral and long. Good aging potential.

Strong ruby garnet, faint ochre reflections, broader brightening on the rim. Attractive bouquet with delicate toasty aromas, fine notes of cassis and blackberry confit and a hint of nougat. Juicy palate with ripe red cherry, velvety, plump tannins, pleasant ripeness and freshness on the finish, mineral and long. Good aging potential.

Pretty aromas of currants as well as orange peel. Medium body. Fine tannins. Crisp finish. Drinkable now. 50% cabernet sauvignon, 48% merlot, the rest petit verdot.

Tasted blind. Looks a little thin at the rim. Smells herbal. Good front palate attack and not overdone. Some may reproach this for being too simple but the balance is good. Very clean and healthy.

Medium to deep garnet-purple in color, the 2017 Saintayme delivers expressive black cherries, mulberries and boysenberries scents with hints of rosehip tea, tilled soil and spice box. Medium-bodied, the palate has plenty of juicy red and black fruits with a plush texture and refreshing finish. Drink 2020 - 2032

The Wine Cellar Insider: "Red fruits with a hint of earth and citrus on the front end. In the middle, you have a medium-bodied palate that offers spicy, red fruits, cocoa and another dash of that entertaining citrus in the finish. This forward wine was produced with 100% Merlot. You can enjoy this early in life."

A strong effort, the 2020 Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc wafts from the glass with aromas of nectarine, pear, lemongrass, Sauvignon botanicals, toasted bread and baking spices. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, it's rich and concentrated, with ripe acids and chalky structuring extract. It's not quite as vibrant and precise as the 2019, but it's a success nonetheless.  / The 2020 Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc is 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Sauvignon Gris and 5% Sémillon. It fermented with indigenous yeasts in French oak, 50% new, within which it will age for 12 months on lees with bâtonnage before spending a further two to three months in tank. It prances out of the glass with vivacious notes of lime blossoms, Golden Delicious apples and green mango, plus hints of coriander seed, shaved ginger and wet pebbles. The medium-bodied palate possesses lovely harmony even at this nascent stage, featuring bright apple and citrus flavors with soft acidity and a chalky finish.

At this early stage, the 2021 Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc appears set to number among the best white wines this estate has produced to date. Wafting from the glass with aromas of crisp orchard fruit, nectarine, grapefruit, pastry cream and smoke, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered, with a concentrated core of fruit, racy acids and a taut, chiseled profile, concluding with a saline finish. Balancing texture and tension to compelling effect, this beautifully integrated, characterful white is going to be thrilling to revisit in bottle.

Fresh, crisp but with intensity and ripe texture, this wine is the star of the white wines this vintage. It is tight, with minerality and acidity. Pink grapefruit, and a dynamic texture reveal its concentration. It will be a great wine from a great white wine vintage. Barrel Sample: 98-100

A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot aging in 60% new barriques, the very deep purple-black colored 2020 Smith Haut Lafitte makes an impactful entrance, opening with flamboyant notes of blackcurrant pastilles, chocolate-covered cherries and molten licorice, leading to nuances of ground cloves, woodsmoke, crushed rocks and dusty soil. The medium to full-bodied palate bursts with opulent black fruit preserves and shimmering mineral sparks, framed by exquisitely ripe and fantastically firm tannins and seamless freshness, finishing with epically long-lasting earthy and savory layers. This is the singular voice of Smith Haut Lafitte at its finest, and wow-oh-wow is it worth a listen. This 2020 has an alcohol of 14.5% with a pH of 3.65. The tannins this year were a little higher than 2018 and 2019. A little less than a third of production went into this grand vin. Barrel Sample, 98-100

A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot aging in 60% new barriques, the very deep purple-black coloured 2020 Smith Haut Lafitte makes an impactful entrance, opening with flamboyant notes of blackcurrant pastilles, chocolate-covered cherries and molten licorice, leading to nuances of ground cloves, woodsmoke, crushed rocks and dusty soil. The medium to full-bodied palate bursts with opulent black fruit preserves and shimmering mineral sparks, framed by exquisitely ripe and fantastically firm tannins and seamless freshness, finishing with epically long-lasting earthy and savory layers. This is the singular voice of Smith Haut Lafitte at its finest, and wow-oh-wow is it worth a listen. This 2020 has an alcohol of 14.5% with a pH of 3.65. The tannins this year were a little higher than 2018 and 2019. A little less than a third of production went into this grand vin.

Cask sample. Creamy, generous style where the Sauvignon is ripe rather than herbal, which works well. Succulent acidity still gives refreshment on the finish. Drinkable now, but has a decade of potential too. 

A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot aging in 60% new barriques, the very deep purple-black coloured 2020 Smith Haut Lafitte makes an impactful entrance, opening with flamboyant notes of blackcurrant pastilles, chocolate-covered cherries and molten licorice, leading to nuances of ground cloves, woodsmoke, crushed rocks and dusty soil. The medium to full-bodied palate bursts with opulent black fruit preserves and shimmering mineral sparks, framed by exquisitely ripe and fantastically firm tannins and seamless freshness, finishing with epically long-lasting earthy and savory layers. This is the singular voice of Smith Haut Lafitte at its finest, and wow-oh-wow is it worth a listen. This 2020 has an alcohol of 14.5% with a pH of 3.65. The tannins this year were a little higher than 2018 and 2019. A little less than a third of production went into this grand vin.

Cask sample. Creamy, generous style where the Sauvignon is ripe rather than herbal, which works well. Succulent acidity still gives refreshment on the finish. Drinkable now, but has a decade of potential too. 

Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, the 2020 Senejac features notes of sour cherries, raspberry leaves and redcurrants with a waft of tobacco leaf. The medium-bodied palate is crunchy and refreshing, delivering red berry and herbal flavors with a chewy texture and short, uncomplicated finish.

Jeff Leve, The Wine Cellar Insider: "Cherries, currants and cocoa are on the nose and also in the core of this wine. Medium-bodied, soft and vibrant, with a touch of chalk and oak that comes through in the mid-palate and in the fruit-filled endnote. You can open and enjoy this with pleasure on release, with give it a bit of age as well. Drink from 2024-2038."

Bright, ripe and defined, with bay, violet, cassis and dark plum fruit all racing along in unison. Excellent energy and tension through the finish. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2028. 18,335 cases made.

Round and already aromatically expressive with dark-fruit and liquorice notes. All the signs of a solar vintage, the fruit generous and mouth-coating, an inherent sweetness and slight glow of alcohol on the finish. Fine, light tannins with a little graininess on the end.

Exuberant, with generous plum sauce, licorice root, blackberry compote and apple wood notes vying for attention, as graphite and cast iron accents drive along underneath. Reveals a little flash of exotic toast that snazzes up the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. *Highly Recommended

The 2020 Talbot has a fragrant nose with black cherries, bilberry, wild mint and chalk, quite harmonious and gaining intensity in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet, almost candied opening, predominantly red berry fruit laced with mint and orange zest, and a liberal sprinkling of black pepper. I admire the way this Talbot builds so that it finishes with a flourish. This may well land at the top of my banded score.

The 2020 Talbot has a fragrant nose with black cherries, bilberry, wild mint and chalk, quite harmonious and gaining intensity in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet, almost candied opening, predominantly red berry fruit laced with mint and orange zest, and a liberal sprinkling of black pepper. I admire the way this Talbot builds so that it finishes with a flourish. This may well land at the top of my banded score.

The 2020 Talbot has a fragrant nose with black cherries, bilberry, wild mint and chalk, quite harmonious and gaining intensity in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet, almost candied opening, predominantly red berry fruit laced with mint and orange zest, and a liberal sprinkling of black pepper. I admire the way this Talbot builds so that it finishes with a flourish. This may well land at the top of my banded score.

The 2021 Talbot is promising, exhibiting aromas of wild berries, cherries, cigar wrapper and sweet spices, followed by a medium to full-bodied, layered and velvety palate that's bright and seamless, with an enveloping, charming profile despite analytically rather high levels of polyphenols. This is a fine effort that reminds Jean-Michel Laporte of the 2001 vintage in style—though the 2021 will benefit from all the improvements that the last two decades have witnessed at this address. 91-92 William Kelley.

Spearmint and blackcurrants on the nose with some gorgeous perfume too. Excellent intensity of blackcurrant juice, not fleshy, more linear and direct, the lightness of flavour balancing with fine, just gripping tannins that also offer touches of tobacco and toasted spice flavours. It's overall quite a delicate and well worked wine for the vintage, with gentle fruit persistence and a lifted finish. Will no doubt round out over ageing, giving more density to the really beautifully presented floral-touched bramble fruit. Elegance and class; promising indeed. 93 Georgina Hindle

It boasts an inky/purple color along with a gorgeous bouquet of mocha, chocolate, blackberry and cassis fruit, an unctuous texture, a full-bodied, viscous mouthfeel and a skyscraper-like, multilayered finish. This spectacular wine is nearly overwhelming in its richness, thickness and intensity. Once all its baby fat falls away, the terroir characteristics and additional nuances will emerge. This blockbuster, fabulous Troplong Mondot will benefit from 10-15 years of cellaring and keep for three decades or more. It is not shy either, bouncing over the palate with 15.5% natural alcohol. The 2009 Troplong Mondot will provide plenty of competition for the 2010, 2005 and 2000. It comes closest in style to the prodigious 1990 that proprietress Christine Valette produced 22 years ago. A phenomenal effort, it unquestionably justifies its relatively new Premier Grand Cru St.-Emilion status. Readers should keep in mind that the 1990, which probably has lower acidity and not the level of concentration found in the 2009, is drinking incredibly well at age 22 and reveals no signs of falling apart.

Pure perfection in a glass, the incredible 2009 Troplong Mondot offers off the chart notes of blackcurrants, licorice, truffles and saddle leather that just soar from the glass. This is a big, ripe, incredibly sexy wine that hits the palate with a huge texture, building, ripe tannin, no weight, and a finish that just won't quit. Utterly brilliant stuff, it's slightly more approachable than the 2005, but both of these vintages play in the same style. Bravo! 

The 2019 Mondot derives from Merlot growing on newly acquired vineyards on Saint-Émilion's limestone plateau that can't be included in the grand vin until the region's new classification is finalized. Offering up aromas of wild berries, rose petals and coniferous forest floor, it's medium to full-bodied, lively and succulent, with a supple, charming profile and a penetrating finish.

Deep purple-black in colour, the 2018 Virginie de Valandraud opens a little broody with notes of damp soil, truffles and chargrill, opening up to display stewed plums, blackberry tart and plum preserves plus nuances of espresso, Marmite toast, tapenade and wild sage. Medium to full-bodied, the palate has a rock-solid frame of firm, grainy tannins and plenty of freshness lifting the rich, decadent fruit to a long finish.

The 2017 D'Arche gives up fresh apple juice, lemon curd and pink grapefruit notions with touches of crushed rocks and white pepper. The palate gives appealing purity with a lively backbone cutting through the rich fruit, finishing on a lemony note.

Barrel Sample. Opulent and rich, this densely textured wine is full in weight, with honey, sweet spice, rich peach and mango flavors. It is a fine wine, not for long-term aging and ready to drink from 2021.

A sleek and round Sauternes with moderate intensity, showing spiced mangoes, honeyed quince and golden kiwis. Not viscous but balanced with a simple, medium-length finish and a subtle bitter accent at the end. Drink now or hold.

The 2018 d'Yquem is all lime cordial, grapefruit oil and mandarin peel to begin. With a little coaxing, the fireworks really begin, letting off a whole array of honeysuckle, candied ginger, dried pineapple, lemon pastilles, chalk dust and sea spray scents, followed by a savory undercurrent of shaved almonds, allspice and baking bread. The palate is an exercise in polish and poise, featuring the most gorgeously creamy texture and bright, sparkling freshness, framing all the densely laden tropical and citrus fruit layers, finishing with a powerful BANG of profound floral and spice perfume. It is wonderfully sweet, yes, but that paradoxically for a sweet wine is almost beside the point.

Average temperatures 2.7C over average, combined with 20% of the normal rainfall from mid August to the end of July made makes this a naturally rich, low-yielding vintage (40% less than average, not helped by a hail storm in July), with a gloriously gourmet 145g/ha residual sugar, and a pH level of 3.95. As ever with Yquem, patience was the key, taking in the grapes slowly but surely over 17 days harvest that extended well into October. The results in the glass are intense and glossy, full of satin-textured apricot and white peach flavours. There are exotic fruits of pineapple and mango but winemaker Sandrine Garbay has kept a focus on fresher flavours of lime zest and citrus that balance out the natural richness and concentration. Pretty closed right now, but there is power and balance here, an excellent Yquem.

The 2018 d'Yquem is all lime cordial, grapefruit oil and mandarin peel to begin. With a little coaxing, the fireworks really begin, letting off a whole array of honeysuckle, candied ginger, dried pineapple, lemon pastilles, chalk dust and sea spray scents, followed by a savory undercurrent of shaved almonds, allspice and baking bread. The palate is an exercise in polish and poise, featuring the most gorgeously creamy texture and bright, sparkling freshness, framing all the densely laden tropical and citrus fruit layers, finishing with a powerful BANG of profound floral and spice perfume. It is wonderfully sweet, yes, but thatparadoxically for a sweet wineis almost beside the point.

Average temperatures 2.7C over average, combined with 20% of the normal rainfall from mid August to the end of July made makes this a naturally rich, low-yielding vintage (40% less than average, not helped by a hail storm in July), with a gloriously gourmet 145g/ha residual sugar, and a pH level of 3.95. As ever with Yquem, patience was the key, taking in the grapes slowly but surely over 17 days harvest that extended well into October. The results in the glass are intense and glossy, full of satin-textured apricot and white peach flavours. There are exotic fruits of pineapple and mango but winemaker Sandrine Garbay has kept a focus on fresher flavours of lime zest and citrus that balance out the natural richness and concentration. Pretty closed right now, but there is power and balance here, an excellent Yquem.

A special wine right from the start, this glistens with pure papaya, mango, white peach and mirabelle plum, joined by elder flower honey, toasted macadamia nut and orange blossom notes. Ends with a remarkably long finish. Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now.

Dried fruit, pure and direct. Succulent and juicy, super-concentrated length. Lighter than usual, but no compromise on the complexity. It has the magic of Yquem in a slim-fit package. Not the most hedonistic, but certainly in the top class of Sauternes.

A special wine right from the start, this glistens with pure papaya, mango, white peach and mirabelle plum, joined by elder flower honey, toasted macadamia nut and orange blossom notes. Ends with a remarkably long finish. Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now.

Dried fruit, pure and direct. Succulent and juicy, super-concentrated length. Lighter than usual, but no compromise on the complexity. It has the magic of Yquem in a slim-fit package. Not the most hedonistic, but certainly in the top class of Sauternes.

This has a broad and unctuous feel, with nectarine, apricot and mango notes creating an opulent feel, while racy bitter almond, orange blossom and elderberry accents add contrast and range. The lush finish is carried by notes of mango and piecrust. Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Best from 2028 through 2040.

Bright medium greenish yellow, silver reflections. Attractive ripe yellow tropical fruit, honey and lanolin, some coconut, candied tangerine zest, floral touch, fine caramel in the background. Full-bodied, elegant, ripe pineapple, yellow peach, new wood vivid in the core, fine honey nuances, seems opulent on the finish, marked by some baby fat, powerful finish, certain ageing potential.

This has a broad and unctuous feel, with nectarine, apricot and mango notes creating an opulent feel, while racy bitter almond, orange blossom and elderberry accents add contrast and range. The lush finish is carried by notes of mango and piecrust. Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Best from 2028 through 2040.

Bright medium greenish yellow, silver reflections. Attractive ripe yellow tropical fruit, honey and lanolin, some coconut, candied tangerine zest, floral touch, fine caramel in the background. Full-bodied, elegant, ripe pineapple, yellow peach, new wood vivid in the core, fine honey nuances, seems opulent on the finish, marked by some baby fat, powerful finish, certain ageing potential.

This has a broad and unctuous feel, with nectarine, apricot and mango notes creating an opulent feel, while racy bitter almond, orange blossom and elderberry accents add contrast and range. The lush finish is carried by notes of mango and piecrust. Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Best from 2028 through 2040.

Bright medium greenish yellow, silver reflections. Attractive ripe yellow tropical fruit, honey and lanolin, some coconut, candied tangerine zest, floral touch, fine caramel in the background. Full-bodied, elegant, ripe pineapple, yellow peach, new wood vivid in the core, fine honey nuances, seems opulent on the finish, marked by some baby fat, powerful finish, certain ageing potential.

A blend of 65% Merlot, 31% Cabernet Franc and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, the medium garnet-purple coloured 2016 Certan de May offers up notes of wild blueberries, black cherries and raspberry leaves with hints of black tea, roses and tar. Medium-bodied, the palate delivers a wonderful quiet intensity of blue, red and black fruits plus a fine-grained backbone and superb freshness, delivery and very long, mineral-tinged finish.

A deeply intense and plush Pomerol with immaculately ripe fruit and tannins. So well executed with aromas of truffle, dark stones, coal smoke and intense dark plums and cocoa powder. The palate has an immaculate texture with very bright, velvety tannins, carrying rich dark plums. Plum pudding and Christmas cake to close.

Composed of 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Grenache, and 7% Counoise, the 2018 Odyssée has a deep garnet colour, bursting from the glass with a whole array of exotic spices notes—cumin seed, star anise, cardamom and cassia—over a core of stewed black plums, warm cassis and blackberry preserves, with hints of dark chocolate, lavender and tapenade. The full-bodied palate is jam-packed with concentrated black and blue fruits, framed by firm, rounded tannins and beautiful freshness, finishing very long with a peppery kick. A little more structured than previous vintages and with such impressive concentration, this should easily cellar 25 years or more.

Sleek, with a vein of mineral underlying lemon, apple and light spice flavors. Focused and harmonious, with the vibrant structure driving its lingering finish. Drink now through 2025. 

Seductive, intense liquorice notes on the nose. Rich and broad start but nicely appetising with lime-juice notes. Nothing remotely scrawny about this.

Sleek, with a vein of mineral underlying lemon, apple and light spice flavors. Focused and harmonious, with the vibrant structure driving its lingering finish. Drink now through 2025. 

Seductive, intense liquorice notes on the nose. Rich and broad start but nicely appetising with lime-juice notes. Nothing remotely scrawny about this.

Sleek, with a vein of mineral underlying lemon, apple and light spice flavors. Focused and harmonious, with the vibrant structure driving its lingering finish. Drink now through 2025. 

Seductive, intense liquorice notes on the nose. Rich and broad start but nicely appetising with lime-juice notes. Nothing remotely scrawny about this.

Average age of the vines 100 years old. Red and purple colours, clear. Spicy nose, with red fruits and light floral elements, not as deep and brooding as the Chambolle, more savoury showing the extra couple of years bottle aging perhaps. Light cherry flavours on the palate, clear stony limestone textural influence, both in tension and saline flavour elements, less fruit intense on the finish. - Brandon Nash, May 2023

The 2013 Nuits St Georges les Didiers Cuvée Hospice de Nuits, which is aged entirely in new oak, has an engaging vanilla and coca-tinged bouquet that is well defined. The palate is medium-bodied and clearly showing a lot of oak vanillin at the moment with a long candied finish. It would be nice if there was less new oak here, but that’s the way the Hospice de Nuits rolls. Compared with the 2012, I would probably have bid on last year's barrel.

(this auction item was in 100% new oak until the Ligniers took possession of the barrels in June of 2014): Good deep red with ruby highlights. Totally different on the nose than the wines vinified by the Ligniers, with licorice and violet aromas.

Deep ruby colour. Reduction flattens the underlying fruit at present though there is both good freshness and verve to the delicious, powerful and admirably concentrated big-bodied flavors that possess a subtle minerality that really comes to the fore on the rustic, serious and built-to-age finish. A classic Chenevery.

The 2016 Nuits St Georges les Didiers Cuvée Hospice de Nuits had been racked from its new barrel the previous June and put into a used barrel by Laurent Lignier to reduce the impact of the wood. It has a generous bouquet with ample black cherry, blueberry and violet scents, the remainder of its élevage hopefully putting a rein on the oak influence. The palate is medium-bodied and here I must say that the oak exerts too much of an influence, slightly figgy toward the extravagant (for the vintage) finish. Enjoyable but it is certainly cut from a different cloth compared to Laurent Lignier's other cuvées.

A ripe and more deeply pitched nose consists of dark berry fruit, humus, earth, tea and a hint of the sauvage is also trimmed in a gentle application of wood. There is good minerally to the lively middle weight flavors that are underpinned by moderately firm tannins before concluding in a suave and velvety finish that displays just a hint of Nuits rusticity.

The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny Vielles Vignes, which is completely de-stemmed, has a very open bouquet of raspberry and crushed strawberry aromas, quite sensual in style. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit and fruit grip. Slightly chalky toward the finish, which lingers nicely in the mouth. Very fine.

There are three barrels of the 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Les Chenevery, a deep, saturated wine that wafts from the glass with notes of cherries, rose petal and sweet spices. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with rich structuring tannins, good concentration and tangy balancing acids. There's sufficient substance to suggest it will age with style.

The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis Les Chenevery 1er Cru is completely de-stemmed and matured in mainly used oak. It has a tightly wound bouquet that feels bashful compared to the other crus. The medium-bodied palate offers grainy tannin, a mixture of black and red fruit and a tangible sense of energy on the focussed, very Morey finish. Excellent.

The latest iteration of a cuvée that Lignier regularly purchases, the 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Didiers (Hospice de Nuits) displays notes of cherries, cassis, grilled game, dark chocolate and toasty new oak. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, rich and layered, with fine tannins and good length on the finish. Lignier racks the wine out of the Hospices' barrels and into used cooperage of his own as soon as it's delivered to his winery.

Very generous wood is enough to push the underlying dark berry fruit, earth and toast nuances to the background. The wood is on the palate as well and it's enough to round off the mid-palate of the medium weight flavors while imparting a slightly bitterness to the finish. This is not a bad wine per se but it's carrying far more wood influence than I can countenance.

Produced from purchased fruit and vinified with one-third whole clusters, the 2018 Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes (négoce) bursts with aromas of raspberries, berries, woodsmoke and sweet soil tones. It's medium to full-bodied, succulent and fine-boned, with a delicate core of fruit framed by powdery tannins.

Wafting from the glass with scents of raspberries, plums, wild berries and sweet soil tones, the 2019 Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes (négoce) is medium to full-bodied, with lively acids and powdery structuring tannins underpinning its succulent core of fruit. It's a promising cuvée. The 2019s, according to Laurent Lignier, possess all the characteristics of great Pinot Noir, and that's an analysis with which I would concur. He has once again produced a fine vintage for both his domaine holdings and négociant sources the latter, amounting to some 3.5 hectares of vines, now clearly distinguished in our reviews. As readers will know, winemaking is pretty classical at this address, with a short cold maceration, two to three weeks' maceration with one pigéage and one rémontage per day and maturation in barrels, some third of which are new if possible, without racking for fully 22 months in the domaine's cold cellars. Lignier began picking on September 16, and alcohol levels range between 13.5% and 14.7%, the latter extreme representing the exception rather than the rule. Tasting through the wines, the vast majority of which were in barrel and had not been racked, the most obvious analogy was with the domaine's 2015s at the same stage but I look forward to revisiting them from bottle to confirm that impression.

Discreet wood sets off more elegant and layered aromas of both red and blue pinot fruit that are laced with hints of violet and spice. There is very good energy and delineation to the nicely mineral-driven and solidly powerful medium weight flavors that display hints of rusticity and youthful austerity on the balanced, complex and lingering finale. This is a fine Chambolle villages and worth a look. *Burghound Outstanding!*

The 2020 Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes comes from two terrors and is an acquisition of fruit. The nose is quite backward at first and does not quite slip into fifth gear. The palate is medium-bodied with sweet red cherry and strawberry entry, fine acidity, quite fleshy as you would hope from a Chambolle with the 30% whole bunch imparting a welcome spiciness on the finish. Very fine.

The 2020 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has turned out especially well, wafting from the glass with aromas of peonies, sweet wild berries, orange rind, loamy soil and rose petals. Full-bodied, layered and seamless, with velvety tannins and an ample core of vibrant, perfumed fruit, it concludes with a long, seamless finish. This may well emerge as Lignier's finest Charmes of the 2018, 2019 and 2020 trio. Laurent Lignier began his harvest on August 27, reporting below-average yields and finished alcohols between 13% and 14%. Once again, the result is a fine vintage for both his domaine holdings and négociant sources—the latter, amounting to some 3.5 hectares of vines, now clearly distinguished in our reviews. As readers will know, winemaking is pretty classical at this address, with a short cold maceration, two to three weeks' maceration with one pigéage and one rémontage per day and maturation in barrels, some one-third of which are new—if possible, without racking—for fully 22 months in the domaine's cold cellars. The 2020s are more primary and tightly wound than Lignier's 2019s, but they're similar in terms of ultimate quality and are well worth seeking out. (WK)

The 2020 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, from Mazoyères, contains one-third whole bunch this year. That comes through on the nose: this will need some time to fully integrated those stems. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, very silky in texture with a slightly powdery, candied finish. Charming, if just missing a little grip that would have warranted a higher score. (NM)

Purchased as wine, Lignier's 2020 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru (négoce) reveals aromas of cassis, plums and wild berries, framed by creamy new oak. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and vibrant, it's a nicely balanced effort that shows promise.

The 2020 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru comes from a purchase of wine. It has a lifted nose with black cherries, boysenberry and liquorice scents, maybe just a little too ripe? The palate is medium-bodied with more composition than the nose. Fleshy ripe tannins, plenty of red fruit infused with blood orange that segues into quite a spicy and persistent finish. It's just the aromatics that need to up their game.

Aromas of dark berries, baking chocolate, forest floor, spices and plums introduce the 2020 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, a full-bodied, layered and multidimensional wine that's deep and concentrated, with lively acids, ripe tannins and a long, saline finish. Still primary after a year's élevage, it's built to age. (WK)

A concentrated wine, with a powerful black plum and blueberry fruit, replete with notes of mineral, rose petal, smoke and spice. The texture is very dense and powerful, yet the wine never loses sight of its essential elegance and finesse. This 'regular' cuvée of Clos de la Roche is a blend of two-thirds Monts Luisants and one-third Fremières, all 60-70 years of age. 30% of the fruit is fermented as whole clusters and the wine is aged in 30% new casks. (CC) 

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Regnard (négoce) bursts with aromas of plums, peonies, warm spices and soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and concentrated, it's charming and vibrant, with powdery tannins and a long, sapid finish. Laurent Lignier began his harvest on August 27, reporting below-average yields and finished alcohols between 13% and 14%. Once again, the result is a fine vintage for both his domaine holdings and négociant sources—the latter, amounting to some 3.5 hectares of vines, now clearly distinguished in our reviews. As readers will know, winemaking is pretty classical at this address, with a short cold maceration, two to three weeks' maceration with one pigéage and one rémontage per day and maturation in barrels, some one-third of which are new—if possible, without racking—for fully 22 months in the domaine's cold cellars. The 2020s are more primary and tightly wound than Lignier's 2019s, but they're similar in terms of ultimate quality and are well worth seeking out. (WK)

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Reniards, which comes from purchased grapes, has a very well defined and quite elegant bouquet that unfolds nicely with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a creamy-texture opening, quite plush and ravishing with maybe just a slight lack of tension and bite on the finish. (NM)

The 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets is a blend of 40- and 80-year-old vineyards and was completely de-stemmed this year; it has an opulent and extravagant bouquet with marmalade and orange sorbet notes suffusing the kirsch, cassis and black cherry.

The Caillerets is one of the highlights in Rossignol's formidable range this year, its rigorous, soil-driven personality in total contrast to the decadent Clos des Angles. Notes of ripe red cherry, redcurrant, chalky minerality and cocoa powder lead into a powerful, pure palate, with a firm core of vibrant fruit and minerality framed by bright acids and refined tannins. Terrific stuff.

Smoky aromas of apple, pear and lemon rind give way to attractively textured flavors that terminate in a solidly complex, clean, dry and equally refreshing finish. This is also worth a look.

The 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin La Petite Chapelle Premier Cru has a far superior boquet compared to the village crus - much more control over the aromatics, more detail, scents of raspberry coulis, wild strawberry and brown spices, none of the prune-like aromas here. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, quite solid and grippy in the mouth with more black fruit coming through towards the finely tuned finish. This is a serious level up in class over the Comaine's Village Cru's in 2015.

Vinified and aged in a well-judged combination of used oak and stainless steel, giving both freshness and depth to the palate. Nose of citrus, buttered toast and lemon cough drops. More toasty citrus on the rounded palate, with a creamy texture that’s balanced by poised acidity for a fresh finish. A great food wine. – Julie Sheppard

Mineral and precise with aromas of Meyer lemons, flint, apple blossoms and nectarines. The midweight palate has a tightly wound mouthfeel and bright acidity, offering lovely length and tension with a slightly saline finish. Good energy.

Fresh citrus aromas lead the way, offering an elegant and light profile. The palate is straightforward yet refined, with a round texture and bright acidity. A subtle note of lemongrass emerges on the finish, adding a delicate touch to this classic expression.

 Like the Volnay, this is sufficiently reduced to render the nose is difficult to assess. The suave, rich yet solidly delineated medium-bodied flavors deliver fine length and better complexity on the moderately tightly wound, firm and youthfully austere finale.

"Situated between Folatieres and Champ Canet at the same elevation. Aromas of pear, green apple, citrus zest, white flowers and freshly baked bread introduce the 2022 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Garenne (Duc de Magenta), a medium to full-bodied, satiny and lively wine that’s more harmonious and complete than the regular Garenne."

"The 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Garenne ler Cru has a more backward bouquet than the Garenne, though there is a little more nuance and terroir expression here. The palate is well-balanced with a silver bead of acidity and more mineralite than the La Garenne, but there is also more strictness and linearity on the finish. For Puligny diehards." Drink 2025 - 2040

Pale lemon colour, the bouquet takes some searching out, but then it arrives, clearly richer than the premiers crus and with a little more oak. At the moment the wood is a little prominent, one of the two barrels being new. The fruit will work out in the end but this may take some time to marry. Drink from 2028-2036. - Jasper Morris, October 2022.

A fine pale colour. A light stoniness but there is plenty of fruit too. Richer and deeper fruit on the attack, but Cailleret cannot escape its destiny and the stonier side of the fruit returns behind. Just enough flesh on the bones. Drink from 2026-2030. - Jasper Morris October 2022

Note: from a miniscule .064 ha parcel of 25+ year old vines; Blanchot-Dessus abuts Montrachet on its southern end. A different aromatic profile is present here with its smoky and spicy array of floral, resin and various white orchard fruit scents. On the palate it's immediately clear that this is a big wine with impressive mid-palate concentration and overt power that continues onto the mouthcoating, gorgeously long and beautifully balanced finish that is very solidly structured. This serious and tautly muscular effort is clearly built-to-age over the longer-term yet it's not so backward that it couldn't be approached after 5 to 7 years of cellaring. *Burghound Sweet Spot Outstanding! June 2023.

Pale colour, fine energy, really chiselled, electric backbone, a burst of flavour and indeed some riper floral notes to finish, before some lemon scented oak at the very back. Possibly the faintest touch of something rather exotic to finish. Drink from 2026-2030. - Jasper Morris - October 2022.

Here there is enough reduction to push the underlying fruit to the background. On the palate there is a bit more volume to the energetic and detailed medium weight flavors that conclude in a bitter pit fruit, rustic and sneaky long finale. This is very Chassagne in character and a wine that should drink well young while maturing over the next 5-ish years. (4/2023)

Wine by Bok 9.25/10: "Andre Clouet Dream Vintage is always our favorite champagne at Fine Wines, especially on a good vintage like 2018. It’s been widely recognized that 2018 is a great champagne vintage, the weather of sunny, hot and dry created a very conducive environment for Chardonnay that is being used to create the Dream Vintage 2018 from Bouzy. Upon my first pour, I realized the foam and bubble is abundant, truly a great treat to start off with. A sip and I’m happy with the content, with predominantly ripe apples and ripe lemon, the blessing of the weather in 2018... leaned more into lemon custard, freshness, and youthful verve... The sparkling has great balance, though still young given it’s age as I can almost feel the skin of Chardonnay. I was at the launch of Dom Perignon 2015 a few days ago, if I was given a choice, I would have opted for Andre Clouet Dream Vintage 2018 as my choice, although I would love to drink them side by side blind to have a fair fight." (07/2024)

Lobenberg Wine Guide: "What does 200 million years of manifest minerality taste like ? Jean-Francois Clouet put the answer in this bottle. A completely new wine in Clouet’s portfolio, bottled in a special white-coated bottle with a matching box in a chalk cliff design. One third of the Chardonnay grapes grow on the southern slopes of the Montagne de Reims and two thirds on the Côte de Blancs. The base wines of the first wine, which is labeled without a vintage, come from the late-ripening, almost brutally brilliant year 2013 and are aged on the yeast for 7 years in the bottle. Then freshly disgorged in spring 2021 with only 6 grams of sweetness. The Chalky will therefore not be at its best until winter 2021 at the earliest (preferably 5 years later). As the name suggests, Chalky tastes like the salty-chalky purism of the chalk soils of Champagne, but it wouldn’t be a Clouet if it didn’t also exude a wonderful, melting charm and seductive appeal. 200 million years of minerality poured into the bottle as liquid chalk, what a smooth, delicious mineral hammer!"

Lobenberg Wine Guide: "What does 200 million years of manifest minerality taste like ? Jean-Francois Clouet put the answer in this bottle. A completely new wine in Clouet’s portfolio, bottled in a special white-coated bottle with a matching box in a chalk cliff design. One third of the Chardonnay grapes grow on the southern slopes of the Montagne de Reims and two thirds on the Côte de Blancs. The base wines of the first wine, which is labeled without a vintage, come from the late-ripening, almost brutally brilliant year 2013 and are aged on the yeast for 7 years in the bottle. Then freshly disgorged in spring 2021 with only 6 grams of sweetness. The Chalky will therefore not be at its best until winter 2021 at the earliest (preferably 5 years later). As the name suggests, Chalky tastes like the salty-chalky purism of the chalk soils of Champagne, but it wouldn’t be a Clouet if it didn’t also exude a wonderful, melting charm and seductive appeal. 200 million years of minerality poured into the bottle as liquid chalk, what a smooth, delicious mineral hammer!"

The NV Brut Grand Réserve Grand Cru is a pure Pinot Noir from Bouzy. It's pure, fresh, fine and aromatic on the nose and round and delicate on the palate. The fruit-intense finish is chalky-mineral and stimulatingly fresh in its salty finesse and elegant yeastiness. Nice lemon juice flavors give an extra kick of refreshment. This is a picture-book NV Brut. No indication of disgorgement given.

The NV Brut Grand Réserve Grand Cru is a pure Pinot Noir from Bouzy. It's pure, fresh, fine and aromatic on the nose and round and delicate on the palate. The fruit-intense finish is chalky-mineral and stimulatingly fresh in its salty finesse and elegant yeastiness. Nice lemon juice flavors give an extra kick of refreshment. This is a picture-book NV Brut. No indication of disgorgement given.

The NV Brut Grand Réserve Grand Cru is a pure Pinot Noir from Bouzy. It's pure, fresh, fine and aromatic on the nose and round and delicate on the palate. The fruit-intense finish is chalky-mineral and stimulatingly fresh in its salty finesse and elegant yeastiness. Nice lemon juice flavors give an extra kick of refreshment. This is a picture-book NV Brut. No indication of disgorgement given.

Aged for six years on the second lees, the yellow-golden NV Brut The V6 Experience is a Bouzy Pinot Noir that displays great purity and intensity but also reduction on the mineral-scented nose. This is deep and complex, but it needs all our patience and perhaps even a decanter or at least a big glass and lots of aeration. The palate is rich and powerful, firmly structured, very tight and still astringent on the finish, but there is so much finesse paired with power, concentration and fruit, which give the V6 a promising future. The wine just starts a bit slowly (like a rocket, which is pictured on the label), but it will most probably go very steep in a couple of years. I have[n't] ever had this cuvée before, so I can only guess, though.

Jeasn-Francois describes pinot noir as entering a phase he dubs 'The Whirlwind' in it's sixth year of maturation. The rest of his inspiration is impossible to put into words, but clicking on 'Cuvée Design Specification' on his website will put you on the right trajectry. For the exhuberance of Bouzy Pinot Noir and not inconsiderable age, the freshness packed into this cuvée is something to behold. Grapefruit tang meetds crunchy red apple fruit, contrasting the generosity and spice of the village and the tension of zero dosage. Get on board. 100% Pinot; 80% 2012, 20% solera of 2008, 2005, 2004 and 2002; agd 72 months on lees; zero dosage here but released with 5g/L dosage based on a liqueur of barrel-aged chardonnay and refined sugar.

Floral, fresh and distinctive with a mix of light red berry fruit aromas, balanced and even autolysis and moderate complexity. Quite delicious on the palate with a red cherry, red apple and fine red strawberry core, baked goods and a whisper of spice.

Tasted from magnum (the 750-milliliter bottle costs $285), the NV Brut (Gold) opens with lovely matured brioche, toast and ripe fruit flavors. Fresh, pure and elegant on the palate, with beautifully matured flavors and an elegant creaminess I don't find in the other cuvées, the Gold is a blend of 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Meunier as well as the vintages of 2009, 2010 and 2012. The wine reveals good grip and mineral tension and drinks well as an aperitif or with seafood and fish. Tasted from L09B8, April 2018.

Disgorged at the end of 2019 with a dosage of one gram per liter, Billecart-Salmon’s 2005 Brut Le Clos Saint-Hilaire is the eighth edition (the release sequence is 1995, 1996, 1998, 1999, 2002, 2003, 2006 and 2005; Mathieu Roland-Billecart released this vintage after the 2006, to give it more time to mature in bottle.) This 100% Pinot Noir from the single vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ has a bright, vibrant, fresh nose of orchard fruits, dried fruits, nuts, pastry and spices. The palate is tense, delicate and medium-bodied and evokes notes of white pepper and chalk with a saline finish and a gently bitter aftertaste due to the vintage. It's a little more austere than the 2006 vintage but precise and crystalline.

Named after the patron Saint of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, the village where Billecart-Salmon has its HQ, this one-hectare plot of Pinot Noir vines was planted in 1964 and it sits behind the winery. These vines give rise to some of the most fascinating and flamboyant wines in the Billecart portfolio. This wine was entirely vinified in oak barrels and it sat on its lees for 170 months. In addition, the other statistic of note is that it has a dosage of only 1g/L. As luck would have it, I tasted this wine on my son’s birthday. As it happens, I was flying to Australia early the following day and, not wanting to wait a week to publish my thoughts, I put the bottle in an ice bucket and then tasted it in my office while Rollo and his 6-year-old pals were running around outside. I elaborate on this setting because after I wrote this note, I poured some glasses for the various parents who came to pick their children up from Rollo’s birthday tea. Now it is very unusual to be offered a glass of elite Champagne when you are marshalling your sugar-high-child out of the door, but I thought it might be interesting to hear the impressions from a group of wine lovers, none of whom had tasted Le Clos Saint-Hilaire before. First, my thoughts. Billecart held this wine back and released it after the gorgeous 2006 vintage. There must have been a reason for shuffling the pack, and it seems to me, both on the nose and palate, that this is a more robust wine than the ’06. The colour gives a very real guide to the volume of fruit in the engine. It is a stunning old gold with pale green hints and softer amber hues. A decadent perfume captures the senses with layers of mandarin, honey, wax and patisserie shot with faint red cherry highlights, and this means that I spent as much time sniffing my glass as I did sipping this wine. Over the course of an hour, the nose broadened further with more exotic tones and even hints of spice. The palate follows a similar theme, with ultra-fine bubbles teasing the taste buds but not distracting from the overall persistence of the depth of fruit notes. This is a rich, mouth-coating wine, and the acidity does all it can to hold it in perfect equilibrium. Of course, it is drinking now, but there is enough of a battery pack to last at least a decade, and I wonder if it won’t make two decades with ease. It is hard to tell because the luxurious ballgown of flavour hides the mineral and acid tones so cleverly. This is another sensational LCSH, and they all have such distinct characters it is truly a wine of the soil and the vintage, and this makes it one of the most honest and thought-provoking of the super-premium Champagnes. As a matter of fact, and with full disclosure, the five parents who tasted (at first blind) this glorious wine all went weak at the knees. Weaker still when I showed them the label and told them its story. Even Rollo gave it a thumbs up when he insisted on sticking his finger in my glass and tasting the flavour – after all, it was his birthday. Over the years, the average production of this wine sits well below 5000 bottles, so if you are a fan or would like to taste a sublime Champagne that is genuinely worth its price tag, look no further.

The 2006 Brut Cuvée Nicolas François is showing superbly, bursting with aromas of warm bread, citrus oil, wild berries, smoke and gingerbread. On the palate, it's full-bodied, broad and voluminous, with a concentrated and fleshy core, chalky dry extract a

Disgorged in November 2020 with two grams per liter dosage, Billecart-Salmon's newly released 2006 Brut Le Clos Saint-Hilaire is showing well, unwinding in the glass with aromas of pear, mirabelle plum, dried fruits, walnuts, bee pollen and spices. Full-bodied, layered and vinous, it's a concentrated, muscular young wine, allying maturing flavors with broad structural shoulders and racy acids and concluding with a long, resonant and slightly mordant finish. From a parcel planted in 1964 and vinified entirely in oak, this is a powerful Champagne of considerable presence that needs some more time on cork to unwind and round out. 95+ 

The 2008 Brut Cuvée Nicolas Francois was disgorged during the third quarter of 2022 with less than three grams per liter. It has a delicate, pure, clean bouquet with aromas of orchard fruits, spring flowers, honey and licorice, with hints of brioche and pastry with aeration. Medium to full-bodied, chiseled and crystalline, with racy acids and a chalky texture, the palate is tense and the finish is long, penetrating and salty. It exhibits perfect Billecart style, yet tension is present, a sign of the vintage. It is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir (sourced from Aÿ, Mareuil and Verzenay) and 40% Chardonnay from Mesnil, Chouilly and Cramant, and it matured 83% in tanks and 17% in old oak barrels.

20+/20. I have never before taken an overseas trip to taste one wine, but something told me that this was a flight worth boarding... This super-deep wine dwells low in the glass with weight and depth of delivery that is completely unhurried.  Vinous, powerful and with a full spectrum of fruit and patisserie, it is remarkable just how little citrus and herb there is on the front end of this staggeringly impressive wine.  It is more layered and exotic than any current release Champagne I can think of, and then when it seems as though the scene is set, everything changes instantly.  The palate drops about three gears revealing arresting zestiness and tanginess that completely engulfs the senses.  I learned that this cuvée’s release was delayed by nearly two years because the back end was so twitchy, nervy and excitable.  As it turns out, the Billecart gurus made the right call here – this is an electrifying wine, and the finish shows that the potential here is incredible.  I am lucky enough to have tasted the 1959 and the 1961 Billecart-Salmon vintage wines, among others, and the DNA and detail in this 2008 are near-identical.  While the top half of this wine is showy, flamboyant and seductive, the lower half is firm, chiselled, rigid and breath-taking.  But that was not all.  I mentioned above that this launch took place at Mirazur, previously voted the finest restaurant in the world, and so over lunch, orchestrated by Mauro Colagreco and his brigade, Billy CEO Mathieu Roland-Billecart opened magnums of 08NF, which were cork-capped during their ageing as opposed to crown-capped, like the bottles.  They were even more exotic on the nose and even more nipped in on the palate (a canny buy for patient folk). 

The 2008 Brut Cuvée Nicolas Francois was disgorged during the third quarter of 2022 with less than three grams per liter. It has a delicate, pure, clean bouquet with aromas of orchard fruits, spring flowers, honey and licorice, with hints of brioche and pastry with aeration. Medium to full-bodied, chiseled and crystalline, with racy acids and a chalky texture, the palate is tense and the finish is long, penetrating and salty. It exhibits perfect Billecart style, yet tension is present, a sign of the vintage. It is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir (sourced from Aÿ, Mareuil and Verzenay) and 40% Chardonnay from Mesnil, Chouilly and Cramant, and it matured 83% in tanks and 17% in old oak barrels.

20+/20. I have never before taken an overseas trip to taste one wine, but something told me that this was a flight worth boarding... This super-deep wine dwells low in the glass with weight and depth of delivery that is completely unhurried.  Vinous, powerful and with a full spectrum of fruit and patisserie, it is remarkable just how little citrus and herb there is on the front end of this staggeringly impressive wine.  It is more layered and exotic than any current release Champagne I can think of, and then when it seems as though the scene is set, everything changes instantly.  The palate drops about three gears revealing arresting zestiness and tanginess that completely engulfs the senses.  I learned that this cuvée’s release was delayed by nearly two years because the back end was so twitchy, nervy and excitable.  As it turns out, the Billecart gurus made the right call here – this is an electrifying wine, and the finish shows that the potential here is incredible.  I am lucky enough to have tasted the 1959 and the 1961 Billecart-Salmon vintage wines, among others, and the DNA and detail in this 2008 are near-identical.  While the top half of this wine is showy, flamboyant and seductive, the lower half is firm, chiselled, rigid and breath-taking.  But that was not all.  I mentioned above that this launch took place at Mirazur, previously voted the finest restaurant in the world, and so over lunch, orchestrated by Mauro Colagreco and his brigade, Billy CEO Mathieu Roland-Billecart opened magnums of 08NF, which were cork-capped during their ageing as opposed to crown-capped, like the bottles.  They were even more exotic on the nose and even more nipped in on the palate (a canny buy for patient folk). 

The 2008 Brut Cuvée Nicolas Francois was disgorged during the third quarter of 2022 with less than three grams per liter. It has a delicate, pure, clean bouquet with aromas of orchard fruits, spring flowers, honey and licorice, with hints of brioch

Lovely precision and drive to this with aromas of lemon curd, brioche, praline, apricots, pomelos, mandarin zest and salted caramel. It’s held together by a sharp, citrusy backbone of acidity, balanced with a fine, silky mousse. Both structure and softness here. Citrus fruit brightness on a beautifully elegant and seamless finish. 60% pinot noir and 40% chardonnay. 150 months on lees. 2.9g/L dosage.

Disgorged during the second quarter of 2022 with a dosage of 3.75 grams per liter, the 2009 Brut Blanc de Blancs Cuvée Louis Salmon reveals aromas of pear, lemon oil, mandarin oil, white pepper, pastry and almonds. Medium to full-bodied, chiseled and long, it has a crystalline yet vinous texture with a fresh, salty finish. It is a quintessential representation of Billecart's style, characterized by racy acids and a lively palate. It derives from Chardonnay grapes sourced from the villages of Mesnil-sur-Oger, Chouilly and Cramant and was aged exclusively in steel tanks.

This is showing an array of almonds, frangipani, dried lemons, apricots, pastries and white chocolate, evolving to salted caramel. Fantastic complexity and all in balance, with firm focus yet open and delicious. Creamy, very fine bubbles. Salty, turning chalky and mineral at the end. Drink or hold.

Disgorged during the second quarter of 2022 with a dosage of 3.75 grams per liter, the 2009 Brut Blanc de Blancs Cuvée Louis Salmon reveals aromas of pear, lemon oil, mandarin oil, white pepper, pastry and almonds. Medium to full-bodied, chiseled and long, it has a crystalline yet vinous texture with a fresh, salty finish. It is a quintessential representation of Billecart's style, characterized by racy acids and a lively palate. It derives from Chardonnay grapes sourced from the villages of Mesnil-sur-Oger, Chouilly and Cramant and was aged exclusively in steel tanks.

This is showing an array of almonds, frangipani, dried lemons, apricots, pastries and white chocolate, evolving to salted caramel. Fantastic complexity and all in balance, with firm focus yet open and delicious. Creamy, very fine bubbles. Salty, turning chalky and mineral at the end. Drink or hold.

A finely textured Champagne, this is definitely dry, still young, and with great potential. The wine's minerality combines with the texture to give both tension and richness.

A finely textured Champagne, this is definitely dry, still young, and with great potential. The wine's minerality combines with the texture to give both tension and richness.

This new wine was made to ‘capture the essence of Billecart-Salmon', according to seventh generation owner Mathieu Roland-Billecart. From 92% Pinot Noir, 4% Chardonnay and 4% Pinot Meunier, this is a blend of eight grands crus from the Cote des Blancs and Montagne de Reims, including the 1ha Pinot Noir vineyard of Le Clos St-Hilaire in Mareuil-sur-Ay. Exceptional reserve wines from 2000, 2003, 2008 and 2012 were vinified half in steel and half in old oak casks, with a dosage of 4.5g/l, making it an extra brut style. It has a hugely expressive nose of red apple, nougat and citrus, with the hallmark 'old rose' fragrance from Clos St-Hilaire. There's an elegant mousse with very fine, fast-streaming bubbles and powerful, juicy flavours of baking spices, praline, and tart apples. A smoky mineral note and bright acidity offer real refreshment through the long finish, and while drinking beautifully now, it has the structure to last and will improve with age. To mark the year of the house's founding, just 1,818 magnums were made, along with 18 jeroboams. Drinking Window 2018 - 2035

This new wine was made to ‘capture the essence of Billecart-Salmon', according to seventh generation owner Mathieu Roland-Billecart. From 92% Pinot Noir, 4% Chardonnay and 4% Pinot Meunier, this is a blend of eight grands crus from the Cote des Blancs and Montagne de Reims, including the 1ha Pinot Noir vineyard of Le Clos St-Hilaire in Mareuil-sur-Ay. Exceptional reserve wines from 2000, 2003, 2008 and 2012 were vinified half in steel and half in old oak casks, with a dosage of 4.5g/l, making it an extra brut style. It has a hugely expressive nose of red apple, nougat and citrus, with the hallmark 'old rose' fragrance from Clos St-Hilaire. There's an elegant mousse with very fine, fast-streaming bubbles and powerful, juicy flavours of baking spices, praline, and tart apples. A smoky mineral note and bright acidity offer real refreshment through the long finish, and while drinking beautifully now, it has the structure to last and will improve with age. To mark the year of the house's founding, just 1,818 magnums were made, along with 18 jeroboams. Drinking Window 2018 - 2035

Billecart's newly released NV Brut Nature exhibits aromas of fresh bread, crisp orchard fruit, almond paste and ripe citrus fruit. Medium-bodied, pillowy and precise, it's crisp and bone-dry, without being in the least austere. (Sep 21)

Billecart's newly released NV Brut Nature exhibits aromas of fresh bread, crisp orchard fruit, almond paste and ripe citrus fruit. Medium-bodied, pillowy and precise, it's crisp and bone-dry, without being in the least austere. (Sep 21)

Delicate and elegant dry style, with a restrained palate of poached apple, yeasty croissant, a hint of rock melon and lemon curd.

One of the most refreshing and well-crafted sweet champagnes on the shelves; with acidity and poise to handle its honeyed sweetness. This transforms the clean fruit precison that defines Billecart into candied citrus, lemon drops and glace figs, with a creamy, sweet finish, well toned by balanced acidity.

The NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru is showing beautifully today, with aromas of confit citrus, pear, herbs, orchard fruits, pastry and brioche. Medium to full-bodied, it is round and supple with the delicate, bright tension that is the signature of Billecart-Salmon. Perfectly balanced and offering a vinous, toasty and elegantly long finish, it's based on the 2017 vintage with 23% from 2016. Vinified and matured in stainless steel, it spent five years on the lees in bottle before being disgorged with a dosage of 1.7 grams per liter. Billecart-Salmon’s style is characterized by elegance, purity and delicate freshness. Low fermentation temperatures are employed to preserve the purity and expressiveness of the fruit, while malolactic fermentation is systematically blocked to maintain the wine’s vibrant acidity. Since Mathieu Roland-Billecart’s arrival in 2018, the estate has expanded its barrel program, focusing on the best terroirs for cuvées like Brut Réserve and Brut Sous Bois, and has initiated biodynamic viticulture in Le Clos Saint-Hilaire.

Based on the 2018 vintage, Billecart's newly released NV Brut Réserve incorporates fully 53% reserve wines, up from just over a third in the past, and incorporates the usual 40% Pinot Meunier in the blend. Offering up attractive aromas of citrus ze

Based on the 2018 vintage, with 55% of reserve wines, the NV Brut Réserve from Billecart-Salmon is a blend of 40% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir, with a dosage of 6.2 grams per liter. It offers a bouquet with aromas of spring flowers, menthol, pastry, brioche, orchard fruits and pear. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is moderately weighted, with a delicate mousse and a perfectly balanced texture. Very charming. It concludes with a saline, aromatic finish. It represents the first stage in the qualitative evolution of the house, initiated by Mathieu Roland-Billecart. Billecart-Salmon’s style is one of elegance, purity and delicate freshness. Low fermentation temperatures preserve purity and expressive fruit, and malolactic fermentation is systematically blocked. An expanded barrel program has been established since the arrival of Mathieu Roland-Billecart in 2018, with a focus on the best terroirs for the Brut Réserve or Brut Sous Bois.

Based on the 2018 vintage, Billecart's newly released NV Brut Réserve incorporates fully 53% reserve wines, up from just over a third in the past, and incorporates the usual 40% Pinot Meunier in the blend. Offering up attractive aromas of citrus ze

Based on the 2018 vintage, Billecart's newly released NV Brut Réserve incorporates fully 53% reserve wines, up from just over a third in the past, and incorporates the usual 40% Pinot Meunier in the blend. Offering up attractive aromas of citrus zest, green apple and freshly baked bread, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and charming, with a demonstrative core of fruit and a pretty pinpoint mousse, concluding with a saline finish.

Based on the 2018 vintage, Billecart's newly released NV Brut Réserve incorporates fully 53% reserve wines, up from just over a third in the past, and incorporates the usual 40% Pinot Meunier in the blend. Offering up attractive aromas of citrus ze

The wine opens with a slightly floral aspect and a hint of pear tart with lemon overtones. There is a sense of levity, but more air introduces a more brooding, darker notion of candle wax. That lovely but full-flavoured lightness also characterises the palate with wonderfully bright tension. Again that darker, somehow earthy Meunier note adds a hint of waxiness that almost verges onto smokiness – especially on the finish – while the surface remains bright, light and lemony. The mousse is fine and the wine has a pleasant suppleness and this sense of lightness just begs for another sip.

Incorporating fully 10% still red wine, Billecart's 2009 Brut Rosé Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon is showing beautifully, delivering fragrant aromas of plums, stone fruits, petals, sweet spices and marzipan. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and elegant, it's seamless and pillowy, with bright acids and a pure, precise profile, concluding with a bright, saline finish. In 2009, it was vinified entirely in stainless steel. Drink 2022 - 2035.

Incorporating fully 10% still red wine, Billecart's 2009 Brut Rosé Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon is showing beautifully, delivering fragrant aromas of plums, stone fruits, petals, sweet spices and marzipan. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and elegant, it's seamless and pillowy, with bright acids and a pure, precise profile, concluding with a bright, saline finish. In 2009, it was vinified entirely in stainless steel. Drink 2022 - 2035.

Incorporating fully 10% still red wine, Billecart's 2009 Brut Rose Cuvee Elisabeth Salmon is showing beautifully, delivering fragrant aromas of plums, stone fruits, petals, sweet spices, and marzipan. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and elegant, it's seamle

A slightly flinty and vibrant bouquet alongside complex aromas of red berries, herbs and lemon, with fresh menthol notes coming through with some air. The palate is wonderful and elegant, with a vinous texture and a superb, calcareous finish. A blend of 45% Chardonnay and 55% Pinot Noir (including 9% vinified as red wine), this Champagne, which has a dosage of 7g/L, is made for ageing. Tasted 7 November, 2022.

Billecart-Salmon is one of my favorite Champagne houses, and their non-vintage Rose is a consistent winner. A delicate pink color is accompanied by gorgeous sweet cherry, strawberry, and mineral-like scents, assertive medium-bodied flavors, a delicate, crisp personality, and surprising depth as well as persistence. A beautiful berry character in the finish adds to this impeccable rose’s captivating style.

Based on the 2018 vintage, Billecart's new NV Brut Roe incorporates 40% reserve wines and some 6% still red wine. Bursting with scents of sweet red berries, peonies, stone fruits, white cherries, freshly baked bread and spices, it's medium to full-bodied,

Based on the 2018 vintage, Billecart's new NV Brut Roe incorporates 40% reserve wines and some 6% still red wine. Bursting with scents of sweet red berries, peonies, stone fruits, white cherries, freshly baked bread and spices, it's medium to full-bodied,

Based on the 2018 vintage, Billecart's new NV Brut Roe incorporates 40% reserve wines and some 6% still red wine. Bursting with scents of sweet red berries, peonies, stone fruits, white cherries, freshly baked bread and spices, it's medium to full-bodied,

Based on the 2018 vintage, Billecart's new NV Brut Roe incorporates 40% reserve wines and some 6% still red wine. Bursting with scents of sweet red berries, peonies, stone fruits, white cherries, freshly baked bread and spices, it's medium to full-bodied,

The latest rendition of NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Latitude is excellent, offering up aromas of lemon oil, wet stones and white flowers. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, bright and precise, with good concentration, racy acids, an ultra-fine mousse and a long, chalky finish. As usual, this is a classy introduction to the Larmandier-Bernier range.

The latest rendition of NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Latitude is excellent, offering up aromas of lemon oil, wet stones and white flowers. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, bright and precise, with good concentration, racy acids, an ultra-fine mousse and a long, chalky finish. As usual, this is a classy introduction to the Larmandier-Bernier range.

From Grande Champagne and aged an average of 20 years. Light copper in colour, with a subtle nose redolent of fresh flowers at first, but as it opens there are more expressive notes of fruit pastry, which carry on to the full-bodied palate. Pear tart, hazelnuts and a bit of spice and tobacco on the finish.

An average of five and a half years old, and a blend of Grande and Petite Champagne, H by Hine is light amber, with a pretty nose of iris and buttered brioche. On the palate, it's light and fresh, offering notes of nougat and candied orange, and some wood on the finish.

An average of five and a half years old, and a blend of Grande and Petite Champagne, H by Hine is light amber, with a pretty nose of iris and buttered brioche. On the palate, it’s light and fresh, offering notes of nougat and candied orange, and some wood on the finish.

'The 2016 Saumur Champigny Clos de l'Échelier is from a thin layer of white clay over Turonian limestone. This has perfect ripeness and lovely cassis and earthy aromas on the intense and elegant nose. Silky, round and elegant in the mouth, very long and juicy, with fine, ripe and crunchy, spicy tannins and lingering salinity. Great freshness and complexity. Highly elegant and refined, beautifully balanced. Long finish with cherry flavors. "This wine has the balance I am aiming for," says Thierry Germain." - Wine Advocate

Pale red with a touch of brick at the rim. Sous bois and red-fruit notes. Fresh and smooth on the palate, the acidity marked on the finish. Linear and long rather than fleshy. A little lean but bright expression from a cooler year. Best drunk now. (JL)

Fudge and apple-pie nose – rich and seductive. Yet much tighter and fresher in the mouth. The apple-pie and buttery flaky-pastry notes are cut with lime, under-cut by lime leaf and cobnuts. A lovely savoury underlay. And galangal: root, spice, tang, cool-heat. Lots of texture, like the tug of an old silk curtain. And edgy, baobab-tangy mouth-filling acidity. Seville oranges sewing in a fine seam of bitterness, fresh blanched almonds bringing cream and density. Complex, exciting, beautifully balanced, and beautifully refreshing. The perfect pork-roast wine (failing that, a packet of top-quality pork scratchings will do…). 

Elegant and silky, but with a chalky mineral crunch behind the notes of persimmon, vanilla spice, daisy and honeydew. Hints of cardamom and savory mineral add to the complexity as this firms up on the long, mouthwatering finish. Best from 2022 through 2033. 

Right at the dry end of the useful scale on the back label of the bottle, this wine is, however, soft and full of fruit. With its acidity still developing, the wine's future is assured. Drink from 2021.

Bright, even, pale yellow with a light green hue. The bubbles are vibrant and consistent. The bouquet is full, creamy, underlying stonefruit, citrus, floral and yeasty elements. Medium-bodied, dry to taste, aromas of peach, apricot and lemon melded with ginger, bread dough and whipped cream. Chalky minerals cling to the side of the palate and leave a silky mouthfeel. The fruit shows purity and balanced ripeness; creamy features broaden the body and weight. This L'Ancestrale is well-made, shows excellent fruit and mineral details, and has a creamy, pleasing finish. Match with creamy chicken pie and white fish with beurre blanc over the next 2-3 years. 100% Chenin Blanc, made from Methode Ancestrale, 13% alc.

A very attractive Vouvray that offers a pleasurable contrast of ripe (apricot) and less ripe (green apple) flavours as well as a contrast between moderate sweetness and refreshing acidity. Great cellaring potential.

Bright, pale yellow, even colour throughout. This has a gentle, calming bouquet, with aromas of stonefruit, apple and citrus, underlying floral, minerals and lanolin. Medium-bodied, stonefruit, apple and lemon aromas are well-proportioned, melded with ginger, cardamom, honeysuckle, lanolin and minerals. The mouthfeel is voluptuous and unctuous, made of chalky minerals and ripe phenolics. Beautifully gentle acidity and a creamy texture carry the flavours and minerals to a lengthy finish. This is a textural Chenin Blanc shows excellent fruit, spice and minerals on a voluptuous palate. Match with smoked oysters and pork head terrine over the next 5-8 years. Estate vineyard, 100% Chenin Blanc, 30-50 y.o. vine age, handpicked, indigenous yeast fermented in amphorae and aged on fine lees for 6 months. 

This has a pretty floral lift, with orange blossom and honeysuckle notes leading the way for yellow apple, creamed peach and dried pineapple details. The juicy edge is well-buried on the unctuous finish. 

The acidity is almost shocking, cutting through the richness of the wine. Its sweet apple and lemon flavors balance the honey and maple syrup notes. The wine is still young, demanding aging over a decade at least. beautifully ripe. Screwcap. — Roger Voss

Made from a unique clone of Gamay Noir known as "Saint Romain" from the northwest of Lyon. Ripe, rounded and soft with black cherry, cassis and savoury barnyardy hints.

Intense peach gummy ring aromas jump out of the glass in combination with ripe pear. Vivid flavors coat the palate, up front is the salinity and bitterness followed by a lingering candied peach and dried apricot on the finish.

Probably the wine of the vintage (I feel like I say that every year for this cuvee), the 2014 Châteauneuf du Pape Hommage A Jacques Perrin is a substantial, full-bodied, shockingly concentrated 2014 that gives up classic notes of blackberries, blueberries, forest floor, beef blood and licorice. Mouth-coating and rich with building tannin, it will be approachable at an earlier age than most vintages, yet will still need 5-6 years of cellaring.

You can sense this is a cooler vintage immediately on the nose - there's more spice, more detail and precision. A little liquorice, leather and violets. Medium-bodied, not as dense as more recent vintages but very well balanced. Great precision, very upright and awake. It might not close down like the 2015 - you could drink this already. It doesn't have the weight and grandeur of some warmer vintages, but this is an excellent wine. It won't last as long as some more concentrated vintages, but that's not a quality issue per se. Very strong showing for a 2014 Châteauneuf.

As this was bottled only a week before I tasted it, I suspect this rating will prove to be conservative once a few months have passed. The 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape Hommage a Jacques Perrin is another prodigious version of this wine. How many wines in this world can be so huge yet so lacking the feeling of weight? There's plenty of layered spice but also a core of raspberries; rich tannins, yet no real astringency; and a long finish without any apparent heat. Wow!

Immediately more red-fruited than other recent vintages, it's warm, with lush stewed fruit scents, stewed plums in particular, and raspberry. Full-bodied, but without the mass of tannin of the 2016. It's warmer on the palate in terms of fruit ripeness and alcohol, and the tannins are a little fibrous. Some coffee bean on the finish. It's feeling a bit closed at the time of tasting - I would leave this until at least 2025 before opening.

Produced from roughly equal proportions of six varieties, co-fermented in stages, as each one is deemed ripe and picked, the 2022 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is atypically plush and ripe (it's close to 15% alcohol), marked by pineapple, white peach and tangerine notes. It's full-bodied and round, deceptively easy to drink yet concentrated and long on the finish.

Aromas and flavours of fresh and preserved plums, a mix of blackberry fruits then clay and mineralised soil qualities. There’s also a mix of red flowers and peppery spices. Dry with medium+ body/weight, acidity and tannins deliver just the right level of structure and mouthfeel for the fruit and spice flavour qualities. Balanced and well made, ready to drink and an easy option for food pairing. Best drinking from 2024 through 2028+.

Almond, apricot, lemon juice with a surprising zinginess. Delicious fruit, in a lighter style than most Hermitage. There's excellent mealy texture, finished with that tangy acid again. 

Almond, apricot, lemon juice with a surprising zinginess. Delicious fruit, in a lighter style than most Hermitage. There's excellent mealy texture, finished with that tangy acid again. 

A 60-40 blend of Marsanne and Roussanne that aged exclusively in concrete, the 2020 Hermitage Blanc Le Chevalier de Sterimberg features some slightly leesy aromas, plus hints of underripe pear, anise and citrus. Picked early and weighing in at only 13% alcohol, it's a crisp, medium-bodied, tight, yet elegant effort that bears little resemblance to most modern-day white Hermitages.

Jasmine, white peaches, apricots, bananas, crushed stones, almonds and lemon pith on the nose. Shells too. It's medium- to full-bodied with a fresh, vibrant palate. Firm and mineral. From organically grown grapes. Try from 2023.

Aromas and flavours of apples and fresh stone minerals, some white spice and lees complexities, lemon and white peach. There’s some fresh citrus and white fleshed orchard fruit qualities. Saline, dry, plenty of weight with a satin texture, fine tannins and elevated acid line. Well made, complex and lengthy with a floral saline finish. Best drinking from 2023 through 2029+.

The classic white grape of the Rhône, this viognier is dry and elegant at 13.5% ABV. Subtle flavours of poached pear, triple sec, clover honey and blond tobacco, with a hint of baking spice. 

A pleasant, expressive Hermitage, showing a ripe character, with lovely plum, blackberry, lead pencil and leather notes. The tannins are well integrated but still firm. Long finish.--La Chapelle vertical.

Healthy brick colour – quite pale. This smells like an old wine rather than a Rhône. Could be a 1971 burgundy almost! Flattering, delicate, gentle drink. Mellow, tannins much in abeyance.

"Jacques Jaboulet stated that in 1991, the weather was fine until harvest, when it turned damp and gloomy. The saturated dark ruby/purple-colored 1991 La Chapelle is just beginning to reveal secondary nuances. Aromas of Asian spices, soy, grilled steak, pepper, and blackberries are beginning to emerge. Ripe and dense, with tart acidity (a cool vintage characteristic), it is a medium to full-bodied, concentrated, impressively-endowed La Chapelle with surprising length and intensity. It looks to be slightly better than I originally suggested. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2020" (Tasted 2000)

Still remarkably dark in colour despite its age. Gorgeous aromatics here - incredibly spicy and lifted, with potpourri and cigar smoke, almost minty. Only medium-bodied now at most, but not dry or lacking in fruit on the palate. Exceedingly savoury, with smoked duck and black olive, all backed up by remarkably bright, piercing acidity. It is almost narcotic on the nose, then the palate wakes you up like a thunderclap with incredible salinity and electricity running through it, and enormous length. Not as rich as the 1990, but this has more energy and salinity. Made by the Jaboulet family before the Freys took over in 2006. The wines were more heavily extracted at the time, according to Caroline Frey, the current winemaker. There was just this one red cuvée at that time, no second wine, and it was destemmed. (Tasted 2020)

The first vintage where the new team was firmly in place, the 2006 Hermitage la Chapelle offers that classic, smoky, meaty La Chapelle bouquet to go with loads of fruits, medium to full-bodied richness, impressive mid-palate density and sweet tannin. This was easily the best showing I’ve had from this bottle, which often shows a much more rustic, evolved character.

Sourced from the granitic western portion of the appellation, the 2016 Hermitage La Chapelle features mouthwatering aromas of black olives and charred beef. It's full-bodied and creamy-velvety in texture, incredibly lush without being overtly fruity. In fact, it's largely savory, with elegant shadings of leather and spice on the long, silky finish. Yet despite being delicious now, this still has the granite backbone to age through 2040.

Very spicy and peppery with blue-granite aromas plus hints of grilled and smoked meat. Cloves and nutmeg. Full body, round and juicy tannins and a super spicy finish that almost burns with so much character yet turns fine and focused at the end. A beauty.

The 2017 Hermitage La Chapelle comes from the firm's vineyards on the western half of the Hermitage slope, primarily Le Méal, but with substantial contributions from Les Rocoules and Les Bessards. Classic notes of cassis, black olives, mocha and roasted meat are joined by hints of baking spices in a wine that's full-bodied, deep, dense and rich, with a velvety texture and a lingering finish. It's lower in alcohol than the 2018, less voluptuous and maybe just a step behind that monumental wine, but it's still a serious collectible with three decades of evolution ahead of it.

The 2017 Hermitage La Chapelle showed incredibly well and is a brilliant wine that's reminiscent of a richer, denser 2011. Loads of sun-kissed dark fruits, leather, graphite, and flowers, with ample spice and sandalwood nuances, give way to a full-bodied, pure, deep, multi-dimensional Hermitage that’s just about as good as it gets. The balance, length, and depth of this is something to behold, and while it unquestionably offers pleasure today, it has another 20-30 years of prime drinking ahead of it. Best After 2022

The 2017 Hermitage La Chapelle comes from the firm's vineyards on the western half of the Hermitage slope, primarily Le Méal, but with substantial contributions from Les Rocoules and Les Bessards. Classic notes of cassis, black olives, mocha and roasted meat are joined by hints of baking spices in a wine that's full-bodied, deep, dense and rich, with a velvety texture and a lingering finish. It's lower in alcohol than the 2018, less voluptuous and maybe just a step behind that monumental wine, but it's still a serious collectible with three decades of evolution ahead of it.

The 2017 Hermitage La Chapelle showed incredibly well and is a brilliant wine that's reminiscent of a richer, denser 2011. Loads of sun-kissed dark fruits, leather, graphite, and flowers, with ample spice and sandalwood nuances, give way to a full-bodied, pure, deep, multi-dimensional Hermitage that’s just about as good as it gets. The balance, length, and depth of this is something to behold, and while it unquestionably offers pleasure today, it has another 20-30 years of prime drinking ahead of it. Best After 2022

Dried fig and cassis are layered with earth, iron and charred mesquite notes in this densely packed red. Delivers dusty tannins with a slightly bitter edge on the nicely structured finish. Drink now through 2025.

Seems a little shy at the moment, but you can tell that this has serious poise and pedigree with subtle clove, crushed-brick, iron, black-cherry and plum-skin character. It’s full-bodied, yet very tight and reserved with super refined tannins that are so fine-textured, yet intense. Give this three or four years to show its true self. From organically grown grapes. Better after 2023.

An excellent wine, with classic aromas of crushed stone, cassis, espresso and black olives. It's full-bodied, fine and silky, giving an impression of great elegance on the lingering finish.

Almond, apricot, lemon juice with a surprising zinginess. Delicious fruit, in a lighter style than most Hermitage. There's excellent mealy texture, finished with that tangy acid again.

An excellent wine, with classic aromas of crushed stone, cassis, espresso and black olives. It's full-bodied, fine and silky, giving an impression of great elegance on the lingering finish.

Almond, apricot, lemon juice with a surprising zinginess. Delicious fruit, in a lighter style than most Hermitage. There's excellent mealy texture, finished with that tangy acid again.

Green-fruit sensation on the nose. Then really pretty rich on the palate! Climate change is alive and well in this bottle; it's so ripe it almost tastes a little sweet. But it's also super-charming, so long as you dismiss from your mind the archetypal mineral, bone-dry, classic Sancerre. Very charming wine that was definitely well made.

The Lieser 2019 Niederberg Helden Riesling GG is clear and intense on the remarkably fine, flinty and herbal nose. Full-bodied, lush and intense, with fine crystalline acidity and slate astringency, this is an elegant, round, finessed and mouth-filling Helden. It is as fine and elegant as rarely seen before and is carried by lingering salinity and even hidden tannins. It's almost as part was vinified in oak, which would be a more than tolerable stylistic change since it would be for the better. Tasted at the domain in September 2020.

Greenish tinge to the pale straw. Heavier, nuttier nose than some of its stablemates. Though overall it's still sprightly, it's just a little bitter on the finish. Drink 2021 - 2027.

The 2020 Niederberg Helden Riesling GG shows a coolish, even minty nose of broken slate and ripe, rich and intense fruit. Full-bodied, dense and structured on the palate, this is a dense and more muscular Helden that needs some years to refine and open up.

Slightly funky, but brimming with blossom and berry aromas, this is concentrated, finely etched and super-mineral, with a breathtaking finish that makes you think you are drinking slate. Drinkable now, but best from 2023.

The 2020 Wehlener Sonnenuhr GG opens with a clear, deep, refined and herbal/floral bouquet of very fine slate aromas and lovey purity and freshness. Crystalline and salty on the palate, this is a lean and salty, finely grippy, quite powerful Riesling with very ripe fruit aromas on the finish. Intense but not really long this year. Tasted in Wiesbaden in August 2021. Drink 2026-2037.

Intriguing nose draws you in with a promise of things to come. More complex than the Juffer Sonnenuhr. The acid level is quite searing at the moment and the minerality is clearly buried deep inside this dry, still slightly chewy wine. I'd wait for it to unfurl but it's clearly very well made.

The great gin boom of the 21st century shows no sign of slowing as the world remains thirsty for juniper. At the Whisky Exchange, we’ve always prided ourselves on finding the best spirits for our customers, so we’ve assembled a panel of experts to determine the Gin of the Year 2023. This year’s shortlist contains modern interpretations of classic styles and boundary-pushing new innovations. The winner is Stranger & Sons Gin, offering an aromatic and exotic take on the classic spirit, utilising locally-sourced botanicals to create a fragrant Indian gin.

The elegance of angelica root aromas lead onto a warming palate and pleasing mouthfeel. Citrus notes balance well with spices that linger enjoyably. Well balanced, and also a great length to flavours.

The 2020 Barbaresco Nubiola is lifted, aromatically expressive and a real delight. Cedar, sweet pipe tobacco, mint, dried flowers and crushed red berry fruit give the 2020 its high-toned personality. There's plenty of fruit and structure behind it. Give this a few years in bottle. The tannins are a bit present today, but that is always the style of this wine. A few years in bottle should do the trick. Giorgio Pelissero presented a superb set of new releases this year. As always, Pelissero has a very clear idea of what he is going for, and that has proven to be a winning strategy over time. The wines are texturally rich and intense, with fine balance and tons of up-front appeal, but also a touch more verve than in the past. In 2020, the Barbarescos aren't quite as differentiated as they can be. Those nuances may very well emerge with more time in bottle.

The 2020 Barbaresco Vanotu is another terrific wine from Giorgio Pelissero. More than anything else, I admire the wine's balance. Dark-toned fruit, mocha, spice, leather and chocolate are nicely dialed up. The French oak is better integrated here than in most years. Quite simply, the 2020 is a stand out. Drink: 2026 - 2038. Giorgio Pelissero presented a superb set of new releases this year. As always, Pelissero has a very clear idea of what he is going for, and that has proven to be a winning strategy over time. The wines are texturally rich and intense, with fine balance and tons of up-front appeal, but also a touch more verve than in the past. In 2020, the Barbarescos aren't quite as differentiated as they can be. Those nuances may very well emerge with more time in bottle.

The 2021 Barbera d'Alba Piani is a knock-out. Creamy and ample, with striking depth, the 2021 has a ton to offer. Succulent red/purplish fruit, cedar, spice, new leather and a kiss of sweet French oak all build in this effortless, engaging Barbera.

Bright, medium ruby-red, lighter on the rim. The nose is fresh, with aromas of strawberry, sour cherry, elegant floral fragrance, spice hints and minerals. Medium-light bodied aromas of strawberry and cherry entwined with floral, delicate spice and a touch of earthy minerals. The mouthfeel is soft with supple tannin extraction and flows with bright acidity to a fresh finish. Match with pasta and pork over the next 3 years. Fermented and aged in stainless steel, 13% alc. 17.5+/20 pts (89 pts) July 2023

Dark salmon almost blood orange hues lead to a bouquet and palate filled with flavours of pink grapefruit and orange peel, there’s flavours of fermented plum then raspberry. Dry, satin-textured with a core of fruit and old roses, some mineral qualities and balanced, even finish. A distinctively different expression - worth exploring. Best form 2023 through end of summer 2025.

70-year-old Nerello Mascalese vines, part ungrafted, in deep soils at 730 m in Randazzo. First made in 2015. Deep crimson. Intense with a hint of molasses. Really rich and deep-flavoured. Long and satisfying but desperately in need of food to go with it. 14.5% Drink 2022 – 2032

A blend of ungrafted Nerello Mascalese from Cornelissen's three highest vineyards (hence vigne alte): Tartaraci at 1,000 m at Bronte, Barbabecchi at 910 m and Rampante Soprana at 870 m at Solicchiata. First made in 2010. Bright crimson with a restrained nose. Backward and very tannic. Not to my taste – too introverted and tough at the moment – but it may get there in the end. Certainly ambitious! 14.5% Drink 2025 – 2035

Nerello Mascalese planted in 1946 on a steep, south-facing site on compacted sandy clay at 760 m. First made in 2011. This used to be a particularly big wine but from 2018 onwards the grapes were picked deliberately a bit earlier. Bright, deep crimson. Sweet nose reminiscent of rose petals then a certain jujube quality to the fruit before a really grainy grip on the palate. Long with a very dry finish. It really built towards the finish. 14.5% Drink 2023 – 2033

  "I like the aromas of vine bark, rose stem, light parsley, and red fruits that follow through to a medium body, with white pepper and cloves with a fresh and vivid finish. Tight and tannic. Shows tightness and focus. Best after 2025 but already fascinating to taste. (8/4/23)"

"The Frank Cornelissen 2020 Sicilia Nerello Mascalese Vigna Barbabecchi Magma is a creative and original wine that is a lot of fun to drink and dissect. Fruit comes from a vineyard site at about 1,000 meters in elevation above the Contrada Rampante. This 2.5-hectare site was planted in 1910, and more than half of the fruit goes toward this production. The wine offers ample richness and volume with dark berry, campfire ash, grilled herb and cola."

So much blue fruit to this with raspberry and blue berry aromas as well as cranberries and pomegranate. Citrus, too. Medium-bodied with fine tannins and a fresh and tensioned finish. It’s very long and very cool in its nature. Shows lovely ripeness and balance at the end. Wonderful intensity. Drink or hold. Tasted 2023.

 "Lovely cool berry, orange blossom, pumice, smoke and lava aromas, but subtle and complex. Bark and mushroom, too. Full-bodied and very structured with powerful tannins that are polished and thought-provoking. This needs time to soften. Clearly one for the cellar. Best after 2026. (8/4/23)

A blend of ungrafted Nerello Mascalese from Cornelissen's three highest vineyards (hence vigne alte): Tartaraci at 1,000 m at Bronte, Barbabecchi at 910 m and Rampante Soprana at 870 m at Solicchiata. First made in 2010. Bright crimson with a restrained nose. Backward and very tannic. Not to my taste – too introverted and tough at the moment – but it may get there in the end. Certainly ambitious! 14.5% Drink 2025 – 2035

The 2018 Testamatta shows elegant Sangiovese purity and transparency, starting with delicate wild berry and blueberry tones and finishing long with pretty accents of crushed limestone and a touch of campfire ash. In the glass, the wine is radiant and vivid with a luminous ruby or garnet colour. Oak use is reduced to a bare minimum, with barrels that are up to their 16th year of use. The older they are, the better, Bibi explains. As the wine opens in the glass, it presents pretty lilac and violet. This wine represents a blend of fruit from various sites (all with old vines that are farmed organically) across the region of Tuscany. The northern-most sites close to Florence tend to add the floral notes that are so characteristic of this cool vintage (which saw a bit more rain than average and extra work in the vineyards to kept these vines healthy). I visited the vineyards with Bibi in 2018 and remember how beautiful the grapes appeared on the vines. Much of the fruit used here comes from the Vigna del Cancello in Casciano del Murlo, which is midway between Siena and Montalcino. These southern sites give the wine its backbone and tannins. Bibi Graetz tells me that he struggled to create the blend for this 60,000-bottle release. He decided on a final blend, only to change his mind and re-blend two and a half months later. His second stab was specifically aimed at capturing finesse and softening the wine's tannic imprint. Indeed, the wine ultimately offers more in length (with fresh fruit flavors and bright acidity) than it does in power or mid-palate. The finish is silky, long and very fine.

Finely textured, with a nuanced perfume that fills the glass and takes you to the intense underbrush of Tuscany. Succulent and yet savoury, this has a lilting freshness that is overlaid with ripe berry fruits, sage and white pepper spice, and clear minerality in terms of its scraping texture that makes your mouth water on the finish. Feels light and sculpted and yet has an intensity that skewers you to the spot. This is a great wine, with scope and imagination that doesn't want to let you go. Genuinely stands out among the wines of this tasting, and these are a fine array of wines. As with coloure, Bibi Graetz selects only old vines, the youngest 50 years old from five different vineyard sites across Tuscany, all farmed organically. Fermentations in open 225l barrels with natural yeasts and manual punch downs. Drinking Window 2024 - 2045. (Aug 2020)

Dressed for a party, the Bibi Graetz 2019 coloure celebrates the estate's 20th anniversary with a special commemorative (2000-2019) bottle. This vintage of coloure is 100% Sangiovese (the small part of colourino in the blend we saw last year has been removed) because Bibi thought the Sangiovese elegant enough to stand alone. Fruit comes from three vineyard sites with 70-, 80- and 90-year-old vines, respectively. The wine offers big intensity and beautifully lifted aromas and more textural support than we saw in the slightly thinner 2018 vintage. The bouquet reveals balsam herb, cassis, pressed rose, garden mint and crushed stone. Fruit from the southern-most site, Poggio Matto in Casciano del Murlo (in the province of Siena), was blended in at a greater percentage to help build the structure and momentum of this cellar-worthy wine.

Pale garnet with less overt fruit than their Testamatta. Fibrous tannins with a touch of sour cherry and dark chocolate. Fine and transparent with firm structure - very traditional, very Tuscan in its bitter grippiness.

Dressed for a party, the Bibi Graetz 2019 coloure celebrates the estate's 20th anniversary with a special commemorative (2000-2019) bottle. This vintage of coloure is 100% Sangiovese (the small part of colourino in the blend we saw last year has been removed) because Bibi thought the Sangiovese elegant enough to stand alone. Fruit comes from three vineyard sites with 70-, 80- and 90-year-old vines, respectively. The wine offers big intensity and beautifully lifted aromas and more textural support than we saw in the slightly thinner 2018 vintage. The bouquet reveals balsam herb, cassis, pressed rose, garden mint and crushed stone. Fruit from the southern-most site, Poggio Matto in Casciano del Murlo (in the province of Siena), was blended in at a greater percentage to help build the structure and momentum of this cellar-worthy wine.

Pale garnet with less overt fruit than their Testamatta. Fibrous tannins with a touch of sour cherry and dark chocolate. Fine and transparent with firm structure - very traditional, very Tuscan in its bitter grippiness.

Remarkable pale-garnet colour. Delicate black-cherry aroma following on to a more leathery and slaty palate with ample complexity and persistence. That mineral element is really charming - it reminds me of the granitic touch of northern Rhone, and there is similarly bright acidity too.

Remarkable pale-garnet colour. Delicate black-cherry aroma following on to a more leathery and slaty palate with ample complexity and persistence. That mineral element is really charming - it reminds me of the granitic touch of northern Rhone, and there is similarly bright acidity too.

The Bibi Graetz 2020 coloure is a pure expression of Sangiovese all sourced from old vines that are carefully selected in various parts of Tuscany. Much of the fruit comes from a high elevation and cool site in Lamole, or from 70-year-old vines in Bagno a Ripoli or Vincigliata near Fiesole. A small percentage of old vines in Olmo is also used. Bibi has a preference for old vines, and you can taste the lovely depth and complexity that comes through in the coloure. Compared to his other wine Testamatta, this wine has seen fewer stylistic changes over the years, and the goal has always been elegance and finesse. coloure boasts a pretty luminous quality with dark fruit aromas and wild berry. There are hints of licorice and mint as well. Mineral flavors and bright acidity are what set coloure apart.

Bright and lively on the palate, such beautifully expressed raspberry and red cherry fruit flavours alongside high-shining acidity that is so clean and precise. A supremely joyful expression with hints of caramelised strawberries and fresh mint. So sharp but so well defined with a clarity to the palate that is gorgeous. Really delivers a sophisticated, charming, characterful wine that is balanced, easy to enjoy with plenty of life. A more structured and perhaps harder to understand wine than Testamatta this year, but both have their own lovely personalities. This is so complete and abundant, muscular but controlled and full of complexity and detail - there's weight and density without heaviness. A sensational wine. aging 12 months in 500l French oak barrels.

Bibi Graetz has long been tinkering with his formula for this wine, and this vintage represents a new chapter. The 2020 Testamatta is a blend of Sangiovese from old and new vines, with a priority on cooler growing conditions (and even a few northern exposures). In the wake of climate change, and in the pursuit of elegance, Bibi is changing his approach. He also has a new vineyard property near Fiesole, and the introduction of these grapes (from a breezy, high-elevation site) are what gives Testamatta its beautiful clarity, sharpness and lifted bouquet. The new Fiesole fruit makes up about 30% to 35% of this wine. The results are vibrant, transparent and fresh both in terms of acidity and aromatic intensity. This is a wine in transformation and a wine to watch.

A solid white with dried pear, apple, cream and stone aromas and flavors. Its full-bodied with a beautiful core of fruit and a steely, minerally aftertaste. Bright acidity with phenolic texture that holds the wine together nicely, giving it length and tension. Turns lightly chewy and round at the end. Drink or hold.

This sinewy Brunello features blood and iron notes, with earth, plum, cherry and leather flavors. Leans toward the balsamic side, with a long, savory, tannic finish. Displays character and typicity. Drink now through 2033. Drink 2020 - 2033. (15/10/2020).

Tasted blind. Mid ruby with orange tinges. Minerally nose and soft, zesty, lively fruit. Great depth and length and with delicious, chewy tannins. Drink 2020 - 2028. (12/02/2020)

The 2020 Rosso di Montalcino wafts up with a classic mix of earth tones, Tuscan dust and bright strawberries. It’s silky yet cool-toned in feel with inner violet and lavender tones over a core of tart wild berry fruit. The 2020 leaves a coating of youthfully grippy tannins, yet it keeps the mouth watering as sweet minty herbs slowly fade. This is a fun and fruit-focused Rosso that maintains wonderful balance, and I love how savory, almost salty it is at times.

The 2013 Scrio is an opulent, generous and engaging wine. It reveals an all-Syrah personality with ample layers of dark fruit, blackberry, spice, cured meat, leather and bacon fat. Its integration is absolutely seamless. Scrio is dark and impenetrable in terms of appearance and presentation. The bouquet and the mouthfeel are long and luscious. You can count the length of the finish in many, many long seconds. Only 5,000 bottles are made. In terms of its aging potential, this Tuscan Syrah has the inner energy to last two decades or more.

The 2014 Messorio (100% Merlot) was slightly shy and slow to open when I tasted it as a barrel sample some eight months previous to this tasting. I can't say that the wine has opened much since then. It continues to show a tight and slightly austere bouquet with dark fruit, spice and leather. You don't get that quintessentially soft side of the grape. Instead, this Merlot feels a bit thorny and prickly in places due to the much cooler growing conditions. The mouthfeel is less opulent and layered compared to the warmer vintages we have seen in the past. This wine definitely will not be ready to drink for a few more years.

Messorio is a wine that beautifully reflects the characteristics of the vintage and is a very accurate measuring stick of how any single vintage will eventually perform both in terms of near-term accessibility and long-term cellar aging. That said, the Le Macchiole 2017 Messorio plays its strongest cards in terms of mouthfeel and texture, revealing a robust structure and firmly integrated tannins that come from both the richly concentrated fruit and the careful use of oak. The wine shows a heavy center of gravity and a solid base of dark fruit that is enhanced by caramel, brown sugar, spice and creamy blackberry preserves. It does offer immediate appeal, but I'd wait a few more years to give this 2017 Messorio more time to flesh out and evolve. drink 2022 - 2040. (31/10/20).

The Three Graces of Le Macchiole are Messorio, Scrio and Paleo (Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Franc, respectively). Of these three top-tier releases, my favorite is the 2017 Paleo. This is an upright and direct expression of the grape that carefully sheds some dusty or mineral aromas before opening the way for determined black fruit, charred meat, spice and cured tobacco or cigar. There is quite a bit of oak, but it works beautifully against the natural intensity and rich concentration of the hot vintage. More unexpected are those pretty tones of lilac, blue flower and aniseed that add to the detailed rendering and complexity of the bouquet. This wine won my heart. Drink 2022 - 2045. (31/10/2020).

The 2017 Paleo Rosso is superb. It is also the wine in this range that seems to have handled the rigors of 2017 best. Then again, that is the magic of Cabernet Franc on the Tuscan Coast. The aromatics alone are so alluring. Sweet pipe tobacco, mocha, dried flowers, mint, sage and cedar give Paleo its aromatic lift. Some varietal character has been baked out because of the heat of the year. In exchange, readers will find a Paleo Rosso that will drink well with just a year or two in bottle.

The 2017 Paleo Rosso is superb. It is also the wine in this range that seems to have handled the rigors of 2017 best. Then again, that is the magic of Cabernet Franc on the Tuscan Coast. The aromatics alone are so alluring. Sweet pipe tobacco, mocha, dried flowers, mint, sage and cedar give Paleo its aromatic lift. Some varietal character has been baked out because of the heat of the year. In exchange, readers will find a Paleo Rosso that will drink well with just a year or two in bottle.

The Le Macchiole 2017 Scrio is a pure expression of Syrah that shows more similarities to the variety when grown in France than it does California, Australia or even the rest of Tuscany for that matter. Instead of the peppery charred meat or barbecued aromas you often get in New World Syrah, this wine points to blackberry, some black olive, rum cake, crème de cassis or chocolate-covered cherries. Although the wine is varietally pure, it doesn't really scream Syrah in any sort of obvious or banal manner. The tannins are more gripping in this hot vintage, and the wine spreads over the palate with a creamy, almost waxy texture that is enduring and deep. Drink 2022 - 2040. (31/10/2020)

Le Macchiole's 2018 Messorio is soft and rich with impressive depth and intensity, all delivered with the softness that only the Merlot grape can manage. This important wine unfolds first to rich cherry and blackberry and then yields softly to secondary notes of spice, baker's chocolate and toasted almond. There is some youthful tightness in the mouth, with Merlot tannins that are hitched to firmness and softness, while showing impressive length all the while. The mouthfeel is most impressive, thanks to its seamless and supple nature that glides smoothly over the palate.

According to Cinzia Merli, producer of Le Macchiole, 2018 vintage is not her favourite. 'We can't compare it with the more red fruited 2017 and the concentration of 2019 is another matter,' she said. Having said that, this is one of her best Messorios of the last few years. On the nose it comes across as slightly herbal, with the leafy character of Merlot, loaded with restrained cassis, lead pencil and earthy clay minerality. Open-knit aromas of menthol are also present. The attack is smooth and velvety, with huge presence on the mid-palate where oaky tannins are still present. Full and refreshing with extremely youthful character. Drinking Window 2021 - 2048

You could argue that this wine changed Italian wine, because it was the first to fully embrace the potential of Cabernet Franc in the bel paese. The Le Macchiole 2018 Paleo has a spicy and tangy personality with dark fruit, bitter chocolate and tarry smoke. Coming back to my open bottle 24 hours later, I got some green olive and rosemary essence. The mouthfeel fleshes out considerably, and there is beautiful structure to hold it firmly together. Other vintners in Bolgheri have told me of their difficulties with Cabernet Franc in the 2018 vintage, which saw rain toward the end of the season. This wine feels magically immune to those issues and probably means that the expert vineyard team harvested at the right moment.

Powerful, flint ruby with light purple shimmer. Opens on the nose with notes of tobacco and blackberry, plus some sandalwood. Really emerges on the palate with lots of juicy fruit, dark cherry and mulberry, opens with dense, fine-meshed tannin and has fine drinking flow.

The 2018 Scrio is a pure expression of Syrah and one of the wines that broke the mold on this grape grown in coastal Tuscany (I would put the Syrahs from Tua Rita and Duemani in the same category). This is such a delicious wine and you want to bite into it, sip after sip, as if it were food. There is sweetness here, ample spice, tons of dark fruit and a long, luscious finish. I came back to the open bottle a day later and discovered Christmas spice and savory leather. This Tuscan Syrah shies away from the more prominent white pepper or smoked bacon aromas that you sometimes get from this grape, especially in New World expressions. I'm all about Le Macchiole's Syrah.

The 2018 Scrio is different from recent vintages as Le Macchiole no longer manages some of the old vines of Syrah dedicated to this wine. However it's still a delicious, aromatic red to drink now. Its ester-y nose, with bright cassis and green pepper is supported by crisp almost zesty acidity, graceful tannins - despite the extraction - with cassis and black olive flavour...

The stunning Le Macchiole 2019 Messorio is all Merlot from a special 2.5-hectare plot with a classic mix of Bolgheri soils featuring clay, silt, sandstone and limestone. The wine ferments in concrete and finishes in new barrique for 18 months. I spoke with proprietor Cinzia Merli about Merlot, and she concedes that this early-ripening grape suffers the most because of climate change. However, the winemaking team works extra hard for balance and elegance notwithstanding. This beautiful wine releases perfumes of cherry, blue flower, iris root, crushed stone and slate. Well-balanced oak tones add power and texture to the full-bodied close. 11,000 bottles were released.

The Le Macchiole 2019 Scrio benefits from reductive winemaking that is intended to lock in the natural fragrances and elegance of this versatile grape. It is fermented in stainless steel and cement and is partially aged in more oxygen-prone tonneaux. The rest goes into truncated cement vat and ceramic vessels. With Le Macchiole, you don't get a flabby over-extracted Syrah; instead, you get a polished and extremely elegant wine with a tight (trim but not lean) mouthfeel and beautifully integrated tannins. Only 3,800 bottles were made, and in case you were wondering, the suggested tasting order of Cinzia Merli's three IGT wines is Paleo, Scrio and then Messorio.

Bright, intense ruby with a pronounced purple hue. Opens on the nose with notes of undergrowth, some pepper and galangal, then plum and some graphite. Stretches out really well on the palate with grippy, finely meshed tannins in the multi-layered core, has drive and juice, lots of plum on the finish.

The Marchesi Antinori 2019 Solaia is another blockbuster success from Tuscany's leading wine estate. The blend sees a slightly higher percentage of Cabernet Franc and a slightly lower percentage of Sangiovese. The current mix is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Sangiovese and 10% Cabernet Franc (which has been creeping up in recent years, especially as the climate changes). The soils at the Solaia vineyard are rich in Galestro rock, which is an especially happy pairing with Cabernet Franc in particular. Managing Director Renzo Cotarella tells me that that a vintage like 2019 is proof that the final character of a wine comes from its surrounding territory, not from the blend. This is a generous and extremely expressive edition with lots of dark fruit, spice and sweet tobacco. The tannins are beautifully velvety and soft. This is a beautiful wine that collectors will love.

A broad, muscular red, this reveals black cherry, blackberry, earth, tobacco and wild herb flavors, turning leaner and slightly sinewy on the finish. Pugnitello, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot.

Some spice and berry character. Full body and juicy fruit. A slightly cooked edge, too. But it should be just fine. A blend of 35% pugnitello and 30% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 5% petit verdot.

Feels light on its feet despite some density and burly tannins. Black cherry, blackberry and boysenberry fruit is shaded by earth, iron and wild herb notes, while the lively acidity keeps everything defined. Fine length. Pugnitello, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2038. (August 19, 2024)

Wine Review Online: "An interesting Toscana IGT blend with Pugnitello as the lead grape and almost equal amounts of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, San Felice’s Vigorello is a very pleasant and satisfying wine, though not a very complex one.  It features a red fruitiness with a hint of black fruits in the finish, a touch of earthiness, well-integrated tannins, and a crisp finish. "

Wine Review Online: "When is the last time you tasted a bottle of Pugnitello? To be clear, that’s not a proprietary name for yet another Tuscan blend, but rather the name of an ancient grape variety that has been rediscovered, researched, and is now planted in San Felice’s experimental vineyard. Not surprisingly, there’s not much to go around (fewer than 700 cases for the world), but the wine is worth a search for its quality—not just its rarity. Full-bodied but easy to enjoy thanks to its fine-grained, polished tannins, it features appealing red and black berry notes with brambly tones as well as some emerging savory undertones. The oak is quite subtle—which certainly makes sense as it is the character of the variety that should be shown off when working with a rare cultivar. My guess is that you can’t answer my opening question about when you last tasted a Pugnitello, but if you taste this one, I bet it won’t be long before you find a second bottle to taste."

Winescritic.com: "Compact in its solid matrix showing notes of cherries, black cherries, raspberries and mixed flowers. Full bodied, light tannins and a juicy, shining finale of great smoothness. Drink now or hold."

Sommeliers Choice Awards 2025: "Pale straw with lemon zest, fresh apple, and white flowers on the nose, the palate is crisp and clean with bright citrus and a gentle, refreshing mousse."

Contarini Superiore Prosecco is a great value bubble... Produced from Glera grapes grown in the rolling hills of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, it is a vivacious sparkler fragrant with acacia flowers, apple, stone fruit and honeysuckle flavours fun and fizzy on the palate. Tasty and very nicely made, chill it up and enjoy it with family and friends.

From Italian garganega grapes. Fermented and aged in oak. Full-bodied but flinty and dry. Pear, peach, a hint of anise spice and an almost astringent dry finish. Tasted August 2024.

In the late 1800's Sartori's trattoria was the place to frequent if you were a merchant, trader or weary traveller hunting for hearty food, good wine and a comfy place to camp. As the family concentrated more on wine, hospitality remained their focus, which is why their prosecco's are especially friendly. Wild apple and acacia aromas with lemony, creamy characters, a biscuity backbone and cloud-like complexity - it's outstanding with sweetcorn and basil polenta, cherry tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella.

In the late 1800's Sartori's trattoria was the place to frequent if you were a merchant, trader or weary traveller hunting for hearty food, good wine and a comfy place to camp. As the family concentrated more on wine, hospitality remained their focus, which is why their prosecco's are especially friendly. Wild apple and acacia aromas with lemony, creamy characters, a biscuity backbone and cloud-like complexity - it's outstanding with sweetcorn and basil polenta, cherry tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella.

Bright, pale peach pink, even colour throughout. The bead is moderately fine, vibrant and persistent. The nose is soft with faint aromas of red berry, stonefruit, orange and creamy lees. Medium-light bodied, aromas of red berry melded with nectarine, orange zest and a creamy lees complexity. The wine is dry with subtle, with a clean, buoyant palate, and subtle fruit notes linger with fine acidity. This Prosecco Rosé is elegantly presented with a dry, fresh palate and a lightly creamy mouthfeel. Serve as an aperitive or match with kingfish crudo over the next 2-3 years. A blend of Glera 85% and Pinot Noir 15%, made by Charmat Method with second fermentation in tank, left in tank on lees for 60 days minimum. 11% alc. 18+/20 pts (91 pts) Apr 2023.  

Honestly, this is one of the best reds, local or imported, that I have sampled in a long time. Reminds me very much of Montepulciano Brunellos that I was lucky enough to sample in Tuscany many years ago. Soft and gorgeous. Supple and ripe with spiced cherry, dark plum, baba rhum, almond toffee and a hint of tawny port. Buy now. Before I do. Food match - Italian tomato-based pasta. Or by itself.

An intense, sweet Veronese red traditionally made from grapes left to dry in the sun on racks before pressing and fermentation. A blend of obscure native Italian grape varieties is used to make this 13.5% alcohol in a ruby port style. Flavours of black cherry, spice muscatel and toasted almond. Food match: Almond cake, desserts and biscotti.

This is a Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay with a bouquet and palate of ripe pear and apple, alongside a distinctive stony mineral quality, a touch of flint, and an array of floral notes. As the wine opens in the glass, the mineral and lees elements frame the wine more clearly, with layers of citrus peel, apricot flesh, and stony soil suggestions emerging. Quite delicious, though it should be served at ambient temperature to capture the story best. Still developing, with good drinking from the day of purchase through 2029.

An excellent bouquet of ripe white fleshed pomaceous fruits with brown pear and yellow apple then framed by spice and lees complexity giving the aromas shape and form. Fresh, satin textures and ripe fruit flavours on the palate deliver a wine of deliciousness and immediate drinking opportunity. Medium weighted with plenty of acidity fruits concentration and length. Best from 2025 through 2029.  

Fruity, fresh, bright. Lots of spritz with red fruits of cherry and some plum, a light salivating quality with a crispness and refreshing palate appeal. Balnaced and well made in a ready to drink expression.

World Whiskies Awards 2024: "Zesty lemon, cloudy lemonade, and white grapes define the aroma profile. Its is complemented by clean oak and vanilla sponge with green apple undertones. The palate is creamy and delicate, well-balanced with a slight Oaky tannic edge. The finish has a well structured lingering sweet oaky finish."

The Whisky Advocate: "Married after being fully matured in bourbon, oloroso, and PX sherry casks, this has an engaging nose of raisin bread, black cherry, orange peel, toasty wood spices, and deep vanilla notes. The combination of black cherry, milk chocolate, and toffee on the palate is quite moreish, with hints of milk chocolate, then a frisson of black pepper, raisins, and malt, leading to a rich finish of fruit, spice, and chocolate."

Gold: "Exquisite and fragrant aromas of pineapple, melon, vanilla, and honey. The smooth and complex palate unfolds with warm and sweet notes of orchard fruits and citrus peel, and exudes purity, elegance, and weight."

Time Tide: "This is a fireside companion for those who prefer their warmth with a touch of mystery, a whisky that whispers its story rather than shouts it - a slow-burning ballad in a world of fleeting moments."

Fabulous bouquet driven by ripeness, youth and vibrancy. Scents of ripe concentrated black cherry cushioned against a savoury-dried-herb quality giving this wine a sense of place. Other aromas include clove and baking spices of barrel, dried earth and black raspberry compote. Complex and youthful. On the palate a textured, concentrated and luscious wine with textures from polished tannins and backbone of acidity, the concentration of fruits absorb the barrel flavours well and all tannins begin to dissolve slowly on the palate. Excellent length and power. Best drinking from likely 2026 through 2036+ if stored well.

Slightly lighter in colour but with the usual Block 5 elegance and power delivered with great subtlety. Floral, spice and cherry flavours, with a savoury influence and a background of smoky oak. Good now, better later.

I really like the singularity of this estate. Just one Pinot. And its ages beautifully, so nicely in fact that I often regret opening them this early in their lives, because their position now seems almost irrelevant to the wines that they will become.So, this 2022 Earnscleugh Vineyard Pinot Noir (said ern-sklew) leads with cocoa powder and roasted game nuances, pink peppercorns, red apple skins and dried herbs. In the mouth, the tannins are finely milled, structuring and chewy, with strands of saline acidity woven into the picture. This is a beautiful wine now, but it will be an even better wine in the years to come. 13.3% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. - Erin Larkin for WA. Published: Feb 07, 2025 The 2022 Earnscleugh Vineyard Pinot Noir hails from a warmer than average year. During flowering in December, cloudier and wetter than normal weathercaused temperatures to drop, and there was reduced flower germination. Bunches were more open with fewer berries. In the glass, the fruit is supple andbright, with layers of red berries, underpinned by a cherry freshness. I can easily see why these wines will all be consumed in their youth, such is the freshness and detail in the fruit; however, I would strongly recommend that you attempt to exercise some patience with these bottles, as they evolve with wonderful freshness and detail over time. 13.3% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. - Erin Larkin for WA (March, 2025)

Soft and silky, with black cherry, lapsang souchong smokiness, red liquorice and spiced plum compote.

This dry Riesling exhibits a ripe spectrum of citrus with depth and mid-palate weight, driven by acid precision along a floral, honeyed and mineral palate, towards a salivating, appetising finish.

This wine is a blend of three barrels from Bannockburn, Lowburn and Gibbston. It was 43.5% whole-bunch fermented.Delicately scented wine with greater intensity and riper flavours than the regular label. Clearly a “cool climate” wine with bright, fresh flavours and plenty of energy. Approachable now but should develop well with bottle age. (Screwcap).

The fruit is sourced 100% from Gibbston for this vintage, harmoniously expressed, featuring dark fruit with distinctive raspberry and fresh acidity, unfolding pepper, fine spice and earthy layers. Elegantly fragrant aromas of blackberry, raspberry fine spice, black tea leaf and forest floor. Silky tannins elevate and extend an elegant finish. 94pts

Full-bodied, and creamy, with inteste flavours. Could be mistaken for a Chardonnay. Nectarine, red apple skin, dried fig, dried apricot and yeasty croissant.

 Great wine from a difficult vintage when Cyclone Gabrielle blitzed many vineyards in Hawke's Bay. Soft. tannins, red cherry, plum jam, and dark chocolate with a hint of raspberry and a hint of toffee apple.

Bright, yellow gold with a light green hue, even colour throughout. The nose is rich and toasty, with aromas of roasted hazelnut, hay, popcorn, citrus preserve and flinty elements. Medium-full bodied, aromas of citrus preserve and melon underlined popcorn, toasted hazelnut, spice and flint. The oily mouthfeel accompanies the rich palate, packed with aged characters and complexity. Enlivening acidity provides freshness and vitality to a sustained finish. Match with pistachio-crusted grouper and grilled pork chops over the next 3 years. A blend of Chardonnay and Viognier, 13.7% alc. 18.5/20 pts (93 pts) Oct 2023.

 Sweet with ripe apricot and nice citrus fruit, as well as honey and spice. Very stylish and balanced. 

Textural chardonnay with grapefruit, sizzled butter, struck flint, vanilla, green apple, hazelnut and spicy oak characters. Full-flavoured wine that is approachable now but promises to develop with bottle age (03 NOV 2022).

Made from grapes grown on De La Terre's Hill Country Estate, a cluster of limestone terraces. A satisfyingly rich, weighty arneis with ripe citrus, orange peel and savoury, nutty yeast lees. 29 APR 2022.

95 Points (5 Stars). Superbly complex and enticing, the bouquet shows grilled stone fruit, citrus peel, vanillin oak and brioche characters with a hint of butterscotch note. The palate delivers excellent concentration and plush mouthfeel, wonderfully structured by vibrant acidity. Multi-layered and delectably styled with a persistent refined finish. At its best: now to 2029. $30.00. NZ Distributor: Dhall & Nash Fine Wines. Dec 2022.

95 Points (5 Stars). Superbly complex and enticing, the bouquet shows grilled stone fruit, citrus peel, vanillin oak and brioche characters with a hint of butterscotch note. The palate delivers excellent concentration and plush mouthfeel, wonderfully structured by vibrant acidity. Multi-layered and delectably styled with a persistent refined finish. At its best: now to 2029. $30.00. NZ Distributor: Dhall & Nash Fine Wines. Dec 2022.

Wild herbs, crushed roses, and ripe fleshy Doris plums capture the expression of the low-yielding handpicked fruit from the Havelock Hills. Soft acid is balanced by the supple and delicate flavours of freshly picked boysenberries and dried, sweet strawberries. As the wine unfolds, savoury note s of black tea and a light smokiness are revealed alongside well-structured tannins, giving the wines a lovely lindering richness. Herbal, earthy, and complex in teh best possible way. - Alena Kamper Young Winemaker of the Year 2023

It has aromas that are delicate but elegant. Aromatic and peppery, with a slight herbal astringency that cuts through the plush stonefruit and citrus flavours. Savoury green olive, fennel and nettle also emerge on a second sip. Some lovely phenolic bite too. 92pts

Attractive, neat, well integrated package on the nose. Then slightly syrupy on the palate with the acidity sticking out unintegrated with the worked tannins or the vestige of fruit clinging on in the middle. Good effort but not quite together – and not just because it’s young, I feel. This was the first producer to earn a reputation for their Bordeaux style reds in NZ.

Coleraine has maintained a deserved reputation as one of this country’s top red wines since it was first made in 1982. This remarkably Bordeaux-like wine is a restrained and complex blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with good density and an impressively rich and silken texture 12 APR 2005

Fleshier than Awatea and more complex with very fine tannins, red fruits, spice and oak. 30 MAR 2006

Tangy, with very good intensity to the black pepper, black cherry, green tea and generous toasty oak flavors that are framed by the tart structure.  imported.

(2020) Softening colour, bloody, ripe, dried blood and oxide, but all the sweet and ripe character of fruit is beneath. Big creamy mouthful of Syrah, all the sweetness and plushness you cold want, but creamy and softly spicy, a generous acidity in the finish to give it terrific length. Possibly not for long ageing now, but In a lovely place. Price and stockist is for the most recent vintage at time of review. Tom Cannavan January 2020.

Deep garnet colored with a touch of brick, the 2005 Coleraine Cabernet / Merlot has notes of ripe cassis / black currant cordial, fruit cake, leather, sandalwood, fenugreek and Provence herbs with touches of menthol and mulberries. Ripe and rich with firm tannins and a good amount of fruit, it has crisp acidity and a long finish with some savory chocolate coming through. Delicious now, it should continue to drink to 2017+.

Dark, deep ruby-red colour with slight garnet hues, a little lighter on the edge. The nose is beautifully integrated and harmoniously expressed with intense aromas of dark-red and black berry fruit and plums, interwoven with layers of fresh and dried herbs, cedary and pencilly oak. Some earthy detail unfolds, and this is showing the beginnings of lovely secondary development and complexity. Very rich, powerful and well-concentrated on palate, this has densely packed flavour of vibrant blackcurrant and plum fruit melded with savoury, secondary dried herb and earthy notes. The mouthfeel is fresh, alive and bright with plenty of acidity, along with fine-grained tannin structure. The freshness, vitality and youthful firmness on the palate will see this keep well, and grow in complexity over the next 10+ years. 45% Me, 37% CS, 18% CF. 13.5% alc. 19.5-/20 Aug 2017 Release Price $75.00 Full ruby-red with garnet hues, this is elegant but intense with an iron core to the bouquet, showing lively secondary complexities of game, dried herbs, cooked meat and earth. On palate, a medium-weighted wine at 13.5% alc., with rich and fleshy savoury fruit flavours, still definably blackcurranty, the tannin grip taking control and suppressing the fruit a little. This has another 6-9+ years ahead of it. A blend of 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot and 18% Cabernet Franc.  Mar 2011

Lovely soft fleshy fruit, supple youthful appealing velvety tannins on finish.

The 2007 Coleraine (52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc and 34% Merlot) had been recently bottled, it is no wonder the nose is rather sulky, but there is patently a lot of intense cedar-infused Cabernet fruit in this Coleraine. The palate is full-bodied with fully ripe tannins, good grip, cedar, blackberry, pain grille, sous-bois coming through. Great persistency towards the viscous finish. Superb. Tasted 2009.

Dark, deep, ruby-red colour with garnet hues, a little lighter on the edge. The nose is very full with youthfully fresh aromas of black and red currants, along with fresh and dried herb note. The fruit is ripe and sweetly aromatic, and grows in depth and density in the glass. Complexing earth and cedary oak notes emerge with aeration. The palate is fresh and lively, with tightly concentrated blackcurrant, cassis and fresh herb flavours at the core. The fruit aromatics are enlivened by bright acidity. The mouthfeel has energy and vitality, and is underlined by very fine-grained tannin grip and extraction. Though showing some aromatic development, the palate is decidedly youthful, with the potential to develop over the next 15+ years. 52% CS, 34% Me, 14% CF. 14.0% alc. 19.0-/20 Aug 2017 Release Price $72.00 A majestic, massive wine. Saturated purple hued ruby red, this has a youthful bouquet of densely concentrated black fruits with hints of minerals, liquorice and spicy oak. The palate combines great richness and concentration of fruit with immense extraction in extraordinary balance and style. At 14.0% alc., this is 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot and 14% Cabernet Franc. Brooding and primary, it will cellar 10-15+ years.  Mar 2011

A blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot and 19% Cabernet Franc, the 2008 Coleraine took some coaxing on the nose and remained quite broody and introspective, with blackberry, melted tar, autumn leaves, black pepper with the green bell pepper more noticeable than the 2007. The palate is medium-bodied with a spicy entry, very Bordeaux-like, surfeit with energy but perhaps just lacking the final knock-out punch on the finish. Yet there is still breeding here: austere but graceful. Drink 2011-2020. Tasted 2010.

Dense and lively red with layers of berryfruit/blackcurrant together with a more subtle influence of floral, dried spice and cedar flavours. Supple, elegant wine from a vintage that obviously achieved good physiological ripeness. The best Coleraine I’ve tasted for a while and better, in my view, than the highly rated 2007 17 MAR 2010

Right in its drinking window, the 2009 Coleraine is a blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc, matured in mostly new French oak. Damp earth, cigar box, vanilla and cassis all appear on the nose, while the medium to full-bodied palate remains richly textured and velvety, finishing long, with a hint of dark chocolate. Where well-stored and sound of cork, it should drink well for another decade. Tasted 2021

Breed, rather than brute power, is the hallmark of Coleraine, which since its first vintage in 1982 has carved out an illustrious reputation among New Zealand’s claret-style reds. Since the 2005 vintage, it is no longer labelled as a Cabernet/Merlot, but simply as Coleraine (and in some recent vintages has contained more Merlot than Cabernet Sauvignon). At its best, it is a magical Hawke’s Bay wine, with a depth, complexity and subtlety on the level of a top-class Bordeaux. The grapes are grown in the Havelock North hills, in the company’s warm, north-facing Buck and 1892 vineyards, and the wine is matured for 18 to 20 months in French oak barriques, predominantly new. Cabernet Sauvignon in 2009 accounted for 52 per cent of the blend, Merlot 43 per cent and Cabernet Franc 5 per cent (Malbec is definitely not in the recipe). Sturdy (14 per cent alcohol) and dense, it has highly concentrated, ripe blackcurrant, spice, plum and nut flavours, very elegant, lithe and finely poised, in a style that reminds me of a fine Margaux. Yet to really unfold, it should be at its best for drinking around 2020.

An excellent vintage of Coleraine, now into maturity (but still having plenty of life ahead of it), the 2010 Coleraine is a blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, and 6% Cabernet Franc. There's an earthy, grilled-meat edge to the nose, but the medium to full-bodied palate is richly fruited and velvety in texture, with hints of brown sugar and dried spices framing dense cassis fruit. Long and still dusty on the finish, this is delicious now and should last through 2030. One of New Zealand's top wineries, Te Mata, under the leadership of chief executive Nick Buck and veteran winemaker Phil Brodie, continues to set the pace in Hawke's Bay. While Coleraine—the winery's flagship red blend—deservedly gets most of the headlines, the Bullnose Syrah and the deftly wooded white wines are also near the top of the heap.

Dense, savoury red with a fantastic texture. Long and layered with fascinating berry, floral, savoury and herb characters. Vibrant wine with great potential. Accessible but will age. Highest proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon in ten years. Elegant yet powerful red 12 MAR 2012

Fine, elegant and quite tight red with layers of flavour. 72% Cabernet gives the wine a cedarwood, blackberry and olive character and fine backbone of ripe tannins. More vinous than fruity. A distinctive and restrained wine from what was a challenging vintage. Great length. 13 MAR 2013

Tasted with a vertical of five vintages of Homage. Rich and intense syrah with violet, black pepper, dark berry, plum and oak flavours. Dense, sweet fruit nicely balances a solid backbone of ripe, round tannins. A youthful, intense and potentially complex red that promises to age well.

The impressive 2018 vintage (5*) was hand-picked in the Brancott Valley and handled entirely in tanks. A distinctive wine, it is fragrant, fresh and full-bodied, with concentrated tropical-fruit flavours, a herbaceous undercurrent, and a long finish. An age-worthy wine, it is full of personality.

Dessert style, sweet and deceptive at 13.5% alcohol. Canned apricot, honey, melon, honeysuckle and crème brulée with medium acids.

Bright, even, pale straw yellow. The nose is delicate and softly full, with aromas of white blossom and dusty spice overlying stonefruit, citrus, apple and flinty minerals. Full-bodied, aromas of grapefruit melded with peach, apple, white floral and cardamom. Stony minerals cling to the side of the palate, leaving a chalky, fine texture. Acid tension drives with good energy on a lightly creamy mouthfeel. This elegant Chardonnay shows fine details with elegance and power on a fine-textured palate. Match with smoked quail and grouper over the next 5+ years. 18.5+/20 pts (94 pts) Dec 2023

Bright, even, pale yellow. This has a reserved, savoury bouquet with penetrating aromas of stonefruit, apple and pear, lemongrass and minerals. Medium-bodied, expressive on the palate, with aromas of stonefruit, apple, pear and grapefruit intertwined with lemongrass, white spice and stony minerals. The mouthfeel is almost chalky, driven by an elegant tension to a savoury, dry finish. This textural, mineral-driven Sauvignon Blanc has zesty fruit and good energy. Match with blue cod and steamed clams over the next 3-5 years. Fermented to 13.5% alc. 18.5/20 pts (93pts) Dec 2023.

Crisp, lean, dry and elegant. Subtle floral citrus aromas. Minerality, raw almond, light oaky spice, apricot, quince, lemon and nectarine. Bone dry finish.

Not the big, punchy typical Marlborough stye. Light, elegant and subtle at 12.5% ABV. Fresh-squeezed blackcurrant, cape gooseberry. Dry, clean mandarin citrus finish.

Fantastic bouquet with aromas of fresh white and yellow peach, gun flint and white spice, citrus and apple then vanilla with a fresh cashew nut quality from barrel. Excellent weight and texture on the palate with a velvet mouthfeel then flavours of apple and grapefruit, peach and gunflint. Salivating and fresh, medium+ weight and a lengthy finish.

Fantastic bouquet with aromas of fresh white and yellow peach, gun flint and white spice, citrus and apple then vanilla with a fresh cashew nut quality from barrel. Excellent weight and texture on the palate with a velvet mouthfeel then flavours of apple and grapefruit, peach and gunflint. Salivating and fresh, medium+ weight and a lengthy finish.

A distinctive and very attractive bouquet with fresh citrus – grapefruit and lime, angelica leaf, white peach and tropical fruits, and a definitive sea air scent. A bouquet that speaks of site. Delicious on the palate with flavours of citrus and pineapple, sweet grapefruit and red apple. The natural herbaceous quality of SB is a light touch with this example. Balanced, well made, refreshing, saline and ready.

Soaked in green apple skin bitterness and raucous gooseberry flesh tension, this is a wickedly impressive wine, seemingly designed for spicy Asian banquets, fresh-shucked oysters, butterfly clams in garlic and parsley and any other dish where you might ordinarily open a Manzanilla!  But wait a couple of years, and you could be mistaken for thinking this wine came from Austria!  An incredible shapeshifter, this is a marvellously competent and excitingly restless wine.

Marlborough Wine Show: "Flint, smoky, lime oil, complex sulphide. Limes & gooseberry, jalapeno, silky texture, great balance, energy and drive."

Marlborough Wine Show: "Flint, smoky, lime oil, complex sulphide. Limes & gooseberry, jalapeno, silky texture, great balance, energy and drive."

Marlborough Wine Show: "Flint, smoky, lime oil, complex sulphide. Limes & gooseberry, jalapeno, silky texture, great balance, energy and drive."

Dry River's 2009 Gewürztraminer is a lush, off-dry rendering of the variety, with notes of superripe melon and pear accented by hints of peppery-gingery spice. Approachable now. — Joe Czerwinski

Medium to light yellow colour. The nose is rich and spicy with honey and tropical flower aromas. The palate is off-dry, rich and slightly heavy, with a slightly oily texture augmenting the sweetness and some alcohol heat to finish. This doesn't seem very varietal: I wonder if some gewurztraminer has found its way in? Increasingly lychee-like in the glass. Whatever, it's a clean and fragrant, if slightly clumsy wine. 22 NOV 2013

A co-fermented field blend of 30% sauvignon blanc, 25% chardonnay, 25% albarino, 12% semillon, 3% sauvignon gris, 3% petit manseng and 2% muscat. An appealing medley of tree fruit, citrus fruit and subtle floral flavours underpinned with ripe acidity. Bright, fresh and tangy wine.

A typical albariño coastal character with saline/oyster shell, orange zest and wildflower flavours threaded with taut acidity that gives the wine real energy. This is at least one alien grape variety that seems perfectly at home in Northland. 2024–2027 (05 Mar 2024)

From the Far North, an elegant blend of classic Rhone valley white grapes: marsanne, rousanne, vermentino, viognier and muscat à petit grains. Dry, elegant, crisp and floral. With jasmine, honeysuckle, beeswax and frangipane tart.

Made with Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris, this wine presents a bouquet of pear and white spice, a floral white tea quality, sweet hay, a whisper of dried herb, then fruits of lemon, apple and a hint of peach. On the palate it is dry, with a core of citrus and flowers, honeysuckle, and touches of apple and peach framed by acidity. A gentle palate squeeze suggests cellar time could be beneficial. I would suggest it is best enjoyed from today through 2031+.

From the Far North, an elegant blend of classic Rhone valley white grapes: marsanne, rousanne, vermentino, viognier and muscat à petit grains. Dry, elegant, crisp and floral. With jasmine, honeysuckle, beeswax and frangipane tart.

A typical albariño coastal character with saline/oyster shell, orange zest and wildflower flavours threaded with taut acidity that gives the wine real energy. This is at least one alien grape variety that seems perfectly at home in Northland. 2024–2027 (05 Mar 2024)

Deep, dense, rich wine with atractive ripe berry and cedar flavours plus the beginning of some forest floor development. Long, beautifully structured - if anything a tad too soft. Complex, rich and warming. 23 February 2005.

Soft, broad, a tad blousy. Oak very evident. Quite grippy on the finish. Slightly green, herbal characters with berryish flavours. Drying out? 23 February 2005

Soft, rich and broad. Quite oaky and slightly disjointed. Grippy tannins. Blackberry. slightly musty on the finish - could be slightly corked. 23 February 2005.

A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot, the opaque, dark-colored 2000 Cabernets Larose is a tannic, concentrated, extracted wine for those with patience. Its mouth-watering nose of sweet blueberries, jammy blackberries, and licorice leads to a medium-bodied core of peppery black fruits intermingled with asphalt. (PR) (10/2003)

Attractive cedary Cabernet based wine. Solidly structured - needs food. Quite elegant and has power. Subtle complexity, nice acidity, long and balanced. Fine blackberry, spice and cedar. (BC) (2/2005)

Reasonably light, raw and slightly green. A tad bitter. Lightweight red.

Deep, lush, accessible, fleshy. Quite soft -verging on jammy. Shorter than 03. Velvet textured wine that doesn’t suggest great long term potential. Very appealing right now. Quite oaky with some Cabernet cedar character.

Stonyridge Larose is one of the country' more expensive and iconic red wines. It' a Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant blend with four of the other Bordeaux grape varieties; Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Syrah. This is a typical Larose - an attractive mix of berry flavours with cedar, spice and classy oak. It' a pleasant, supple, ripe and sustained red from a relatively light vintage. 23 February 2005.

A Bordeaux blend of predominately Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2005 Larose gives a deep garnet color and has quite a lot of red and black fruit remaining on the complex nose, with spice box and meaty notes plus some dried herbs. The palate is glorious with tons of elegant, youthful fruit in the mouth supported by firm, ripe, grainy tannins and refreshing acid, finishing long and multi-layered. January 2015

A Bordeaux blend of predominately Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2006 Larose offers a deep garnet color going a lt brick at the edge. Earthy, meaty gamey notes waft from the nose with hints of beef drippings, dried black berries and Chinese plums plus a whiff of leather. Drying out slightly in the mouth, it nonetheless has a good amount of interesting fruit remaining, finishing with slightly puckering tannins. January 2015

A Bordeaux blend of predominately Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2007 Larose has a medium garnet colored and is profoundly minty on the nose with a core of warm cassis and hints of dark chocolate and cinnamon stick. The palate is medium-bodied with a highly structured backbone of firm chewy tannins and crisp acid, finishing long.

A Bordeaux blend of predominately Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2008 Larose displays a medium to deep garnet color and lovely mature notes of prunes, kirsch and red currant jelly with nuances of sandalwood, leather and aged meat. Tons of fruit flavor remains on the palate lifted by lively acid and framed by firm tannins, finishing with great length.

A Bordeaux blend of predominately Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2009 Larose offers a medium garnet color and slight sweaty saddles, iodine and bandaid characters over a core of preserved black berries and black forest cake plus a cedary undercurrent. Medium-bodied with plenty of mature fruit remaining on the palate and firm, chewy tannins, it has good persistence.

A Bordeaux blend of predominately Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2010 Larose is medium garnet colored with a hint of purple. The nose is maturing beautifully into classic Bordeaux Blend notes of blackberry preserves, crème de cassis, cigar boxes and incense plus a touch of potpourri. Medium to full-bodied with loads of mid-palate fruit and firm, chewy tannins, it finishes long.

A Bordeaux blend of predominately Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2011 Larose displays a medium garnet color. The nose is evolving into a meaty / gamey character with a sweaty leather quality and notes of kirsch and plum preserves. Medium-bodied with stewed tea notes in the mouth and a medium to firm level of astringent tannins, it nonetheless finishes long and multi-layered.

A Bordeaux blend of predominately Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2012 Larose offers a medium to deep garnet-purple color. It's still a little closed at the moment showing notes of red plums and blackberries with hints of dried Mediterranean herbs, tree bark and earth. Medium-bodied and more elegantly styled than usual, it' just a little light on mid-palate fruit and the tannins a little astringent, though finishes long and complex.

A Bordeaux blend of predominately Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2013 Larose has a deep garnet-purple color and a youthfully mute nose revealing delicate notes of red and blackcurrants, mulberries and plums with hints of cedar, pencil lead, earth and violets plus a hint of cloves. Quite solid and muscular in the mouth with tons of densely packed fruit supported by a solid foundation of firm grainy tannins and lively acid, it has a very long finish. January 2015.

Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2014 Cabernets Larose opens with crushed black currants, fragrant blackberries and mulberries on the nose with hints of bay leaves, forest floor, loam and pencil shavings. Medium-bodied and packed with taut, muscular black fruits, it has a solid frame of chewy tannins and lively acid, finishing with lingering earth and herbal layers. March 2017

Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, the 2015 Cabernets Larose exudes ripe red and black currants on the nose with a lovely floral undercurrent of violets and lavender plus earth and cedar hints. Medium-bodied and firmly structured with ripe, grainy tannins and lively acid, it gives a great intensity of red and black fruits flavors, leading to a very long, earthy finish. March 2017

Produced in much smaller volume than usual, the 2016 Larose is a somewhat light, delicate wine, with notes of black currants and cherries. It's medium-bodied, framed by some dusty, ashy tannins, but shows decent persistence and fruit on the finish. I'd still opt for drinking it over the near term, while waiting for the superb Larose trio of 2013–2015 to mature. March 2019

Awarded by Corkscrew.

Off-dry, clean, quite youthful. Restrained floral and tree fruit/apricot/quince flavours. Some phenolics but nicely woven into the fruit giving a good texture and helping promote a reasonably dry finish. Good purity and complexity. Botrytis influence? A tad herbal and slightly tough. 21 OCT 2009

Luscious medium-med/dry Gewurz with classic lychee, rose, and talcum powder characters. Fleshy, opulent, generous, long. 23 FEB 2005

Sweeter than the 2004. Moderately tannic. Concentrated and more luscious. Fine-grained tannins. A hint of spice and wild herbs with tropical and tree fruit 21 OCT 2009

This vintage of Dry River's Gewürz is almost tropical in style, with mango and pineapple elements accented by gingery spice and a dash of white pepper. It's off dry in style, with plenty of body without being at all blowsy. Drink it over the next few years.

Mineral and taut but with lovely rich, grapey texture. Very smooth and textured with some complexity. Nice, spicy finish. Real interest here. Deliciously ripe with good complexity. 92/100

Re-packed into plastic test tube. Intense and tangy pinot gris with ripe pear, tree fruits and spice characters. Difficult to define individual flavours because the wine has integrated with bottle age. A rich, textural wine with an appealing sweet-and-sour tension and drying finish. 10 JUL 2020

Bricky garnet. Delicate and inviting undergrowth complexity. Some sweetness of fruit as well as a bit of polished wood. Herbs, too, and coffee. Then still such lovely sweet gentle red fruit on the palate. Silky and long and wonderfully fresh and still balanced. Youthful on the palate. (JH)

Martinborough Terrace,  Wairarapa,  New Zealand:  13%;  [ Cork,  44mm,  ullage 23 mm;  weight bottle and cork,  552 g;  release price c.$55;  Amaranth signifies particularly suited to extended cellaring;  Robinson,  2012:  Light, sweet, relatively delicate mature Pinot aromas. Not that burgundian but very slightly dusty and much gentler and more evolved than most other Dry River Pinots I have tasted. Fresh, zesty finish, 17;  Cooper,  2000:  … hugely concentrated, with super-ripe fruit characters of cherries, raspberries, even liquorice. Fleshy and supple, its already approachable, but should be cellared until at least 2003, *****; Garnet and ruby,  younger than the 2000 Pinot Noir,  just below midway in depth (for the 12).  There is quite a volume of bouquet,  but it is over-ripe,  malty and biscuitty,  almost going on leathery,  the fruit well-browning now.  In mouth the wine is texturally rich pinot noir,  but the flavours again are raisiny,  baked and severely over-ripe,  no florals,  no varietal charm.  Oak comes in on the tanniny finish,  so the nett impression is like rich brown raisin (not sultana) fruitcake.  No votes for favourites.  In the vintage comparison,  second to the 1999 Syrah.  Fully mature,  but will hold in its style for some time.  Unless by some not-apparent chance this wine has suffered oxidation from a defective cork (to close inspection,  it appeared perfect),  this 1999 has not fulfilled the  promise of its Amaranth classification,  as varietal pinot noir.  Many people will find it very pleasant as rich red wine with a roast dinner,  however.  GK 05/19

Terribly tricky vintage without leaves but it worked! Some evolution at the rim. Actually even a little too old for my taste. Mushrooms and violets, with some sweetness. Dusty finish.

Very dense ripe fruits with a sweet, soft texture. Long, accessible. Mod complex. Delicious wine - miles away from Burgundy. 16 JUL 2004

This still looks a very youthful crimson. Very definitely Martinborough not Musigny. Sweet start and smooth texture. Relatively low acidity (2003 was a particularly hot vintage, as in Europe oddly enough.) Seems a bit frozen in terms of development, without much subtlety and with a pretty drying finish. No charmer.

This, one of New Zealand's cult wines, should retail for about $85 when it hits a select few retailers' shelves this fall. Although not perhaps the strongest vintage in Martinborough, the 2004 Dry River Pinot Noir features incredibly kaleidoscopic forward fruit that ranges from cherry to plum to mixed berries and back again. It's lush and round, yet still structured to age, with a long, silky finish.

After several variously challenging seasons,  2006 gave a settled spring,  good flowering and set,  followed by a near-ideal summer and autumn.  Reds showed classical varietal expression,  coupled with better than average volume.  Presented as wines 9 (PN) and 10 (Sy),  the syrah ahead,  a huge wine for the cellar,  high tannins in both.

Dry River's 2007 Pinot Noir reveals a slight herbal tinge to its dark fruit aromas and flavors, but it's a nuance that adds complexity and should develop into hints of tea and spice with additional bottle age. As always, it's not overly big or richly textured, but it is concentrated and intense. Drink 2012–2020. — Joe Czerwinski

12.5% alcohol. Beautifully focused nose is very fine and expressive showing dark fruits, spicy and minerals. The palate is super-elegant with lovely dark, pure cherry fruit, some spice and a hint of meatiness. Very expressive with good acidity and freshness. 95/100

The 2011 vintage (5*) is a very classy red, matured in French oak casks (20 per cent new). From a warm growing season, it is densely coloured, rich and supple, with deep plum and black-pepper flavours, fine-grained tannins, and lovely texture and harmony. Youthful, with excellent concentration and complexity, it’s an elegant, rather blockbuster, style, likely to be at its best 2015+.

A classic cool climate syrah here, drinking very well now. I love the white pepper, the firm acids, the savoriness but also the dark, fresh fruit and long finish. This bridges the gap between general appeal and the estates restrained, uncompromising philosophy. 96 Points. Tasted July 2019

A tantalising mix of luscious, honey and ripe peach flavours with crisp, green apple and lemon curd characters. Nice sweet-sour tension creates appealing energy and a vibrant and lingering finish.

This Silver Medal winning Pinot Noir is from our Lime Hill Vineyard which is on the outskirts of Masterton, set on 1.3 Ha on a gently sloping hill with a thin layer of clay on limestone.  This terroir produces a Burgundian style Pinot Noir from vines established in 2013. Incredible value and the potential of cellaring for another 8 years.

This is immensely complex and engaging, showing spiced cherry, dried herb, cedar, game and olive characters on the nose. The palate exhibits wonderful concentration and depth, well complemented by velvety texture and fine grainy tannins. Multi-layered and seductively appealing. At its best: now to 2028.

Bright, fresh, wine with appealing purity and cherry, spicy oak, vanilla, dried herb and hedgerow flavours. High-energy wine that deserves a little bottle age but is accessible now. Tasted 27 June 2024. Drink 2024–2030

5 stars. From Johner Estate, an absolute bargain. Buy before I do! Very smoky, ripe and juicy with umami soy and tar. Ripe blackberry, plum and dark berry fruits. Medium tannic lengthy finish. 

This is seriously good; the elegantly fragrant bouquet shows poached pear, lemon peel, crunchy apple and white floral nuances, followed by a delightfully flavoursome palate offering excellent fruit purity together with creamy texture and vibrant acidity, finishing persistent and structured. At its best: now to 2033.

Perfumed and inviting, the bouquet shows mango, pineapple, lychee, and Turkish Delight aromas with a warm spicy overtone.The palate offers succulent fruit intensity with fleshy texture and elegant sweetness, perfectly countered by juicy acidity, making it superbly harmonious and seamless with a sustained, exotic finish.At its best: now to 2034

This is simply delicious, aromas and flavours of fresh red cherry with a lick of maraschino, strawberry and chilled red fruits tea. Crisp, dry, fine chalky-textured tannins and salivating line of acidity with a touch of salt alongside the core of red fruits that reflect the bouquet. A wine perfect on its own or with fresh fare from tuna sashimi or tataki to red beet risotto and fresh cheeses. Best drinking from day of purchase through end of summer 2026.

Exquisite and finely expressed, showing wild strawberry, lemon peel, Gala apple, and delicate floral notes on the nose. The palate displays brilliant focus and elegant texture, splendidly framed by mouth-watering acidity, making it instantly appealing and fabulously drinkable. At its best: now to 2027.

In a funky 1 litre bottle. Made from hand-harvested indigenous baga grapes. Very approachable, soft and ripe at 11.5% ABV. Spice, poached plum, cherry almond and umami earthy mushroom. Would pass for a pinot noir in a blind tasting. Chill for summer sipping.

A drier style of white Port, its richness coming from concentrated flavors of spice, almond and vanilla. There is some good acidity to give the wine a refreshing aftertaste, leaving a flavor of dried oregano along with the spirit. Heady, perfumed wine, like a fortified Muscat from the south of France. It's rich and sweet, despite its dry descriptor. A delicious wine, but certainly not for mixing.

Light and with perfumed hints along with spice, this is a smoothly textured wine. Its burst of acidity goes well with the sweet aftertaste.

A lively, energetic Port, with lots of brambly grip and warm fruitcake notes carrying the core of steeped plum, raspberry and blackberry flavors. Licorice snap, apple wood, violet and mint accents add range through the finish. There's lots to like in this bright, slightly high-pitched style. Best from 2030 through 2050. (JM)

Dark ruby ​​garnet, violet reflections, delicate brightening of the edges. Black berry jam underlaid with spicy slate, notes of blueberries, tobacco nuances, still somewhat restrained bouquet. Complex, close-knit, firm, fine sweetness, ripe tannins, a touch of chocolate, pickled cherries, delicate figs in the finish, mineral-salty finish, sure maturity potential for many years. (Peter Moser)

This is a lovely 10 Year Tawny, elegant in the mid-palate, but complex, precise and focused. There's a bit of a bite on the finish, giving it some length to go with the flavor. The next day it was more about power, with considerable intensity of old-tawny flavor as well, more than I normally see in a 10 Year Old. This is a fine one for the category.

This fresh, powerful ruby features lots of plush dark plum and sweet cherry flavors, with notes of milk chocolate. The spicy finish is fresh, juicy and balanced.

Deep crimson. Intense red fruit on the nose, but spicy too and some rocky Douro character. Very smooth, sweet and gentle, slips down. Lots of fruit and freshness and then although it is sweet, is has a lovely dry, balancing tannic texture. Almost more like a Douro red and VGV.

Shows good power to the dried raspberry, cherry and brambly flavors, with focused accents of milk chocolate. Offers a broad, spicy finish.

Bright orangey red. Smells nutty and a little like marmalade. Tastes drier than its twin Ruby Dum and has more finesse in its texture but is slightly spirity (not surprising for a young port) but a great introduction to the tawny style.

Medium bodied and dry, with ripe plum, spice, cassis, Cuban cigar, kalamata olive and toasty oak.

 Straightforward yet intense, ripe black raspberry liqueur and cassis scents are followed by a medium to full-bodied, elegant, restrained, balanced port with moderately high tannin as well as outstanding purity. It is a vintage port with impeccable finesse. (RP) (10/2002)

Bright, medium yellow with depth, a slight green hue, and even colour throughout. The nose is full, with underlying power, aromas of ripe stonefruit, melon interweave smoke, flint and minerals. Full-bodied, aromas of melon, papaya and ripe stonefruit melded with smoky flint, clay minerals and spice. There is a savoury element that contributes to weight. An unctuous mouthfeel added volume. This is a weighty, powerful Chenin Blanc with ripe fruit, minerals and flint on a savoury, textural palate. Match with roasted turkey and pork over the next 3-5 years. Fruit from Swartland, 100% Chenin Blanc, dry farmed, average vine age 40 y.o., handpicked, whole bunch pressed, wild yeast fermented to 13% alc, 3 g/l RS. Fermentation and aging took place for nine months on its fine lees in stainless steel tanks (40%), wooden tank (40%) and 500-litre new French oak barrels (5% new wood). Vegan friendly. 18.5-/20 pts (92 pts) Sep 2022 RRP $45

Made from a blend of 60% Shiraz and 40% Cinsault, the 2018 Le Rouge captures the essence and purity of each varietal. Aromas of black pepper, smoked herbs and roasted meats flutter with dusty dark fruit aromas from the Shiraz, whereas the high-toned and red-fruited nature of Cinsault adds notions of black raspberry, wild strawberry and cherry skin and a subtle hint of dusty, wild brush. Medium-bodied, the 13.5% alcohol wine shows true, displaying layers of red and black fruit mingling on the mid-palate with black spice and potpourri flavors. Showing a balanced structure with succulent tannins, the wine concludes with a slightly spicy finish, proving it's an instant success and should drink well for the next 7-8 years.

This has enticing range, with hints of nectarine and white peach out front, followed quickly by a saltier profile of chalk, quinine, Brazil nut and citrus oil. The long, vigorous finish has lovely spine, leaving a fleur de sel note echoing.

Shows a lightly honeyed edge, with beeswax and paraffin notes lining the core of lemon curd, white peach, meringue and sunchoke. The long, floral-filled finish is lacy and alluring.

Mid straw. Much older and more rancio than most Manzanillas. A strong statement! Fairly low acid but with masses of character. A food Manzanilla rather than an aperitif. Lots of chew. Medium persistence.

Lightly pungent, with salted caramel, hazelnut husk and toasted almond notes that are fuller than most finos, backed by a briny edge on the bone-dry finish.

Orangey straw colour. Broad and smoky. Seriously tangy. Obviously quite concentrated in cask. Really refreshing – like a poke with a stick! Bready sensation on the end.

The NV Antique Oloroso is open and expressive in the nose, with a predominant note of hazelnuts and varnished wood, a sweet touch of spices, brandy filled chocolates and orange rind. The perfectly balanced palate shows intense, clean, pure flavours and great length.

An intense yet balanced dessert Sherry, with a burnt aroma that, along with the alcohol, almost singes the nose. Bittersweet chocolate, raisin and a shiso leaf herbaceousness keep the flavors interesting. The finish is sweet, yet clean and long.

Thick, rich demerara sugar and molasses with a tar and fig aroma too. Not just sugary, this has proper flavour. Thick, rich, lengthy, intense, powerful, incredibly sweet yet there is enough flavour and interest to make it interesting and vinous.

“What’s spellbinding about this wine is the acidity and the freshness. Yes, it’s Priorat and it’s a big wine, but so nimble and full of tension. Packed with redcurrant and raspberry, hints of cacao and woodsmoke. Impressively fruit focused.” - The Morning Claret, Simon J. Woolf, Wine journalist

The first wine in the range is the 2016 Monastrell, which in reality contains some 8% combination of Garnacha and Syrah, cropped from a more continental, cooler and dry vintage. Like all the wines from the property, it fermented with indigenous yeasts, in this case with grapes from different plots, and matured in used oak barrels for eight to nine months. Juicy, primary, incredibly fresh and with a vertical palate, longer than wider, like a hypothetical blend of 2013 and 2015, cool but dry. This is always a great value, even more so in 2016. 160,000 bottles produced from a single blend that is bottled throughout the year.

Colour: bright cherry. Nose: fresh fruit, creamy oak, violet drops. Palate: good acidity, spicy, fine tannins. Guia Penn tasted June 2017.

This aromatic cava features hints of vanilla and spice accenting ripe fruit notes of apricot, guava and tangerine. This is fresh and lively without being exuberant, and offers good texture throughout.

Chalky nose with brioche and green apples. Creamy perlage with a medium body and subtle flavors. From organically grown grapes. Vegan. Drink now.

Intensely fruity, fine-grained and very balanced. It will age well, but is already perfect for drinking now.

Crushed currants and plums, dusted with spices and stirred through with dark chocolate lift from the glass and fill the mouth with flavor. Lightly grippy tannins with plenty of length reveal sweet fruits through the finish. Dusty. Dark chocolate. Crushed currants and plums. Lengthy. Spices emerge through the finish. Sweet fruits. Lightly grippy tannins. Lots of length.